The "Official" 1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Airbox/Intake Mod Thread

[CycloSteve]

I am going with the stock canister air cleaner setup with my 1HD-FT powered FJ45, but with a few mods. Georg suggested that we make a larger opening for the intake portion, and will have this ported to the side vent, just behind the PS fender for cold air (no longer have the factory heater/fan assembly).

Another option we are contemplating is having a diverter setup which could also shut this intake off (switched from inside the cab), and go to a higher one in the engine compartment if in water over three feet deep. We are not going with a snorkel, as Georg has found that the ones in the 40 series seriously restrict airflow, increase the EGT's and engine temps. Will definitely post-up our developments.



Steve

 

[77cruiser77]

diverters leave a lot of space to make things complicated. What about a custom snorkle?

 

[ForealBoreal]

I am in the process of trying something out.
I have been told that swapping the 1hz or 1hd-t airbox lid to the 1FZ-FE airbox lid along with the creating a 4" inlet into the airbox will create a big performance gain.
Also will save the pocket book substantially.
Anyone dabbled in this area and care to share?

1hz lid outlet - 2.75"
1hd-t outlet - 3"
1FZ-fe lid - 3.75" I think off the top of my head.

either way swapping this lid on will require the center wing nut bolt to be extended for the raised section.

 

[gerg]

You could use an air filter and canister from 97-03 f150s which have a 3 inch inlet and a 4 inch outlet. The air filter is also quite aerodynamic. It's probably the only thing I've ever like from a ford. There also quite efficient space wise but have a very large filter.
g

 

[mudbludger]

Well now that is interesting gerg....

http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx.php/0/021/article/Gotts-Mod-Air-Intake-Modification.html

 

[gerg]

Here is mine. I cut a portion of the center section out as the filter was on only one side and the extra bit added about 6 inches in length. The inlet is 2.75 inches and the outlet is 4 inches. I'll I large the inlet to 3.5 or so later if I get around to it. I also included a pic of my 5 yr olds bathroom she made. I think it's pretty cool.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I ran the 1fz one on my swap. It's big, even the inlet right from the filter is way bigger. The 2H one I was comparing too was tiny looks about the same as the 1HZ you have there.

 

[mudbludger]

Hey gerg, is that intake side made of a plastic that can be welded? Or is it the FRP variety. I like what you did with cutting and shutting out that section then pop riveting (cap head screws?) it back together. I also like what you girl did with the bathroom, that escape slide is priceless.

 

[ForealBoreal]

That ford air filter looks good.
I've got the 1FZ lid but I have to lengthen the internal bolt for the wing nut.
Apparently swapping out the lid makes a huge difference.
A guy with a FTE mentioned that even with a 4" inlet to the factory box he could get the plugged filter light to go off no problem.
Did the lid mod and the problem was fixed all together with a bunch of other benefit.
I personally like how its factory parts without going real custom so to speak. I do have to figure out how big my snorkel outlet is.
I'd like to order my silicone all at once.

 

[mudbludger]

I too was looking at doing the petrol lid mod, but getting the inlet side of the filter box to mate up with a 4" snorkel like Bernies just looked like too much hassel.

 

[ForealBoreal]

This mod honestly seems like the best bang for your buck.
Its added into the never ending projects list.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

If the top swap is the choke point why not just do the 1fz top swap and forgo the 4" pipe? The snorkel inlet is going to be maybe 2.75" at the most. If you are keeping the stock snorkel then no point making a 4" inlet to the can. The system only flows as good as it's smallest point.

 

[FJRanger]

Which airfilter is used with 1fz top swap?

 

[ForealBoreal]

I was thinking that Jeremy. Would cut down on the eddies.

Stock diesel or gas filter can be used

 

[gerg]

Hey thanks for the compliment. It is surprisingly pretty small overall. I'm not sure if it's frp or just plastic I'll have to test it out to see. I just used some rtv silicone and small screws to fasten it back together. I've seen plastic welding saudering iron things, but I was just going to use galv 4 inch exhaust pipe and make/ weld a flange and silicone it and screw the enlarged opening together from the inside when I mod it. Not pretty for sure though. I think but amnot sure if the v10 filter is larger than this one. The real test would be how much Vacume it causes.

The emergency slide was all my daughters idea. It actually code up here in Canada. We get a little crazy about safety. Truth be told she designed and built the whole thing from scratch. I played with a lot of Lego in my days, but never made a bathroom. Don't be surprised if you see it in an ikea catalogue some time.

I've though alot about air flow and turbos especially when running compounds as your cfm requirements get pretty nuts. So much so I doubt I'll ever fit a centrifugal precleaner. Modding that filter housing with that 4in pipe looks pretty good actually. I know the snorkel necks down to a pretty small diameter, but if you can lessen a restriction in the system it will have a bennifit overall. Still better to address the greatest restriction, but an improvement is still an improvement. A 4inch snorkel would be the way to go. Bet that could be done in under an hour..... right... Not a small project. I have tossed around the idea of a shorty large bore snorkel out of the fender and just sit beside the wiper on top of the fender. 99% of the reason I'd want a snorkel is for cool air, so the length up the window would be just for show on my truck.

 

[mudbludger]

Jeremy I will be going the 4" snorkel from fatz fabrications, would make my own but not set up for the welding side at the moment. Mud member dadinabarrel is using an air filter canister that looks interesting

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-OD-UNI...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27eaec1553

You can see it installed on this thread

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/th...mod-tuning-thread.728533/page-15#post-9388165

 

[ForealBoreal]

@mudbludger they seem to make some really nice stuff, they are growing more on me.

In terms of the factory lid on the stock box, silicone has been ordered.
CrankyCruiser has a build thread in 4wd action and he mentioned the 4" and the new lid helped a bunch.
He did have a Gturbo grunter and he mentioned the truck pulled better at the upper RPMs because of it.
I'm sure it helped out down low a little bit, I'll report back with my findings as soon as I get around to getting it on.

I think i speak for a lot of people that can't justify an $800 air box. If the lid and intake mod into the stock airbox gives an excellent bang for your buck of what an XXi box or heck even another design that flows just as good if not better I'm cool with that. Plus my wallet is thanking me for spending $50 on a lid and silicone.
I guess we can only try and see.

I personally like the fact that I am retaining factory parts. The air filters on these trucks are fantastic. I remember reading somewhere that most performance filters work better because they are less efficient than the stock filter (was a duramax report somewhere).

It is known that panel filters will outflow a centrifugal filter.
My main concern with an XXI box is how waterproof they are. Living in the rainest place in Canada this matters to me opposed to arid australia.
I can say that there is always water ingestion with a snorkel facing it forward no matter the water diffuser on the front. I found turning it towards the windshield helps.

Just a comparison, and if someone is going to throw tantrum, you can thank the internet for making this public at other sources:

XXi Box - plenty more photos out there if someone wants to see more detailed shots. Just ask. AFE 5 Layer filter # 30-10062 (6.6L Duramax panel filter)
having the intake velocity stack at the bottom is a huge water hazard at least for me. Straight into the compressor wheel if that small peice of angle doesn't stop it. The airbox does have a drain but I have read somewhere its hard to pull the little vacuum cap to drain it.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Moonlight Fab - seems better for water ingestion

 

[TheBigBoy]

I'm surprised no one has still not actually tested anything to be honest. The photos your showing ForealBoreal of rays 4" entry to a stock airbox + the petrol lid has never been tested by anyone to my knowledge. I have, but would rather a 3rd party test. All he says is that the light stopped coming on.

It's all personal choice as to what airbox you chose and the amount of boost governs your needs.

Theory is theory and results are results. From all of this, it shows that the airbox itself is the problem (depending on boost pressure). So the 4" entry or the petrol lid makes a difference, but not much of a difference.

I posted these a long time ago.




http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MgV7JKfLe8U

And have tested water ingress to death.
"took it for a 250km drive after having fitted caster bushes in the front lower control arms, and flushing 20 litres of synthetic ATF thru the transmission, steering and transmission noticeably better. absolutely pissed down rain on the way back, and I can confirm that the XXi air box does not show water inside at all with forward facing snorkel ram at 120kmh into hard rain"

Also have another truck running the exact same airbox as dadinabox on the dyno. Results - pods in box's are better than a vortex designed box. But still really lacking.

 

[TheBigBoy]

The other part people don't understand about depression vs turbine load is that removing even 0.5psi of depression in the intake track = 3-4psi of extra boost. The turbine isn't having to work as hard to draw the air. So every 0.01 psi makes a difference.