Is it possible to heat treat stainless to surface harden it any more?
Not 100% sure, but I believe heating SS anneals it.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Is it possible to heat treat stainless to surface harden it any more?
Hey guys, my 1hdt died and I got a 1hz for next to nothing. I've bolted my intake + exhaust manifold gturbo ect onto it.
Its got the standard 10mm pump on it which is tired. I've been doing some research on putting my 1hdt pump on it.
Few things Ive found from the fsm, the upper 1hz timing advance spec is close to the lower 1hdt spec. The crack pressure on the 1hdt injectors are around 20% higher than the 1hz. Static timing also is set around 20% more advanced than the 1hz which would allow it to build pressure longer before opening the nozzle.
Talking to a few people they think if I play around with the timing I should be able to get it to run reasonably well.
Anyone else done it or want to share their thoughts?
Hey SeaJay, could you please share the measurements of the 6mm PIN please? If you have a digital caliper will be great!
I live in Costa Rica and the shipment to here cost twice as buying the piece.
You can surface harden the pin by heating it cherry red and quenching in light oil.
I notice those aftermarket covers are like mine.... I just weld the stock one and use a different spring.
Sorry, misread that your pin WAS stainless.
Most pump internal parts are very hard. not drillable, even if you grind the surface off.
I believe the pins are the same way . I had 25 year old original pins that only have a slight wear line, which is easily polished out.
Grinding custom ones is probably cheaper and easier on tooling, using stainless.
Alright got the 1hdt pump on the 1hz. Started timing off very conservatively at .80 and it was a total smoke show wouldn't idle ect. I cant get my dial gauge back into the pump with the lines fitted so I just knocked it somewhere into the middle of the range. The thing actually starts and runs half decently. Still
Tommorrow I'll try again with the gauge. Although I dont know how well its going to help me as there isnt exactly a spec for this pump on this motor. Any tips on what to look for when timing? Knocking smoke pyros ect.
Finally found a lever mechanism with different ratios that fit into the pump housing without too much modifications. When the AFC is maxed out there is plenty CC's left in the rest of the pump. IMO the only way to get these out is increase the main fuel screw, but this will add smoke on low RPM as well. To prevent this, you have to alter the mechanism i guess. I can measure a few more micrometer on the collar now by moving the AFC so that's a good thing. I can get AFR's now of 22 on 3000 rpm where I couldnt get it lower than 30 before on 28psi. Still have to do some tuning, could be another day of work as always..
![]()

I think you can set it with a dial gauge on standard 1HZ spec as the camplates are the same.
Is already in but now still cant get it lower than 22:1afr. Still cant tune for more fuel on high rpm while maintaining low rpm off boost fuel. Ive wrapped my head around the afc lever today and it just hasnt enough travel and found a few ways to get it sorted. Should have to do that first before swapping the fulcrum lever. At least i can leave the pump on the car now so maybe tomorrow. Looks like all the ve pump information on the web is slightly different from how it works in the 1hdt pump. So not all the tricks the for example cummins guys do works as good on our pumps.Cool. Let us know how you go after changing the governor lever mechanism.
Is already in but now still cant get it lower than 22:1afr. Still cant tune for more fuel on high rpm while maintaining low rpm off boost fuel. Ive wrapped my head around the afc lever today and it just hasnt enough travel and found a few ways to get it sorted. Should have to do that first before swapping the fulcrum lever. At least i can leave the pump on the car now so maybe tomorrow. Looks like all the ve pump information on the web is slightly different from how it works in the 1hdt pump. So not all the tricks the for example cummins guys do works as good on our pumps.
My experience is that you already can grind the pin more than the guide pin will travel.