- Thread starter
- #221
Epoxy primered a few days after media blast. We are priming & blocking a ew pieces at a time, when they are ready they go to paint within a week or so.
The Long Slow Build - 1980 FJ40
- Thread starter gcrump01
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Epoxy primered a few days after media blast. We are priming & blocking a ew pieces at a time, when they are ready they go to paint within a week or so.
nice. I may give welding a few tentative tries.
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- #224
I'm just learning myself. These little pieces are pretty easy though I probably have to do more grinding than a pro.
Not sure if I'm ready to tackle the door bottoms or not?
Do it! So I can learn. I need door bottoms on the D/P doors and both ambulance doors. My hood has pin holes and so does one of the side panels of the hardtop.
That last pic is timely! I just tor down my hard top today and wondered what that end is supposed to look like. There were remnants of that rubber piece on one end. 
Pry the easiest way is to build a wooden buck and hammer it over with a wooden/plastic mallet.
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- #230
I took a remnant of the piece I cut out to a local metal shop. They made me a 12" wide piece with all the bends for $15. I did have to manipulate it a little to get everything to line up - the piece I took them was pretty rusted out.
- Thread starter
- #231
That last pic is timely! I just tor down my hard top today and wondered what that end is supposed to look like. There were remnants of that rubber piece on one end.
I was lucky as the other end is very solid, so I knew exactly what to do on this end. Let me know if you need more pics.
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- #233
It was for me anyway, I realize a lot of guys on this forum are way more talented than I am when it comes to metal work. It took them less than 15 minutes with the right tool. I figured that I would have banged on metal for hours and it still not look right. In my case, $15 well spent. Cheers..I was wrong. Paying someone else to do it for $15 is the easiest way.
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- #235
Well I cut the door bottoms off & installed the quick hinges. I'll hang the doors and see if I can get the patch panels aligned properly.
What did you use to cut off the door bottoms? The cut looks very clean. Did you use the new door bottom as a template or guide? I noticed how you rounded the edges of the inside of the door. Why? To save the original interior horizontal lines?
- Thread starter
- #237
I used a 3" air powered cutoff tool.
I used the patch panels as a template to cut. The inner part of the patch is curved. I guess you're right, it does avoid the original horizontal lines. Take a look at the pics of the Real Steel patches linked below.
Lower Front Door Patches 74-84 - Real Steel Cruiser Parts
I used the patch panels as a template to cut. The inner part of the patch is curved. I guess you're right, it does avoid the original horizontal lines. Take a look at the pics of the Real Steel patches linked below.
Lower Front Door Patches 74-84 - Real Steel Cruiser Parts
- Thread starter
- #238
Took a break from cutting up the doors to put 2 tops together. Rivet squeezer is an awesome tool!
Rain gutters were powder coated - they'll be repainted when the fiberglass is painted but I wanted to protect the inside part where the fiberglass meets the rain gutter.
Rain gutters were powder coated - they'll be repainted when the fiberglass is painted but I wanted to protect the inside part where the fiberglass meets the rain gutter.
screeeeech......slow down. The tool in the upper right of the last photo, what is it? A rivet tool of some kind? Where did you get it?
That would be a Rivet Squeezer. Google it and youll see tons of different ones (of note they arent cheap!) They are mostly used in the aircraft industry is my understanding (and only time ive really seen them used) but work great for the gutters!
