The Dutch stole all 5-speed diesels! (nsfw?) HJ60 and BJ40

[hj 60]

Received wrong plate: 2mm, got money refund but item not available so asked Toyota dealer, waiting now for part 41361-60010 ( 1.60 mm ) a € 35 a piece! (OEM)

Listening some minimal while waiting




Also ordered from dealer (if hard to find, buy at dealer) the 15131-22010 ; VALVE, OIL ADJUSTING; VALVE, OIL PUMP RELIEF. VALVE,RELIEF
Spring seems to be reused fine.

If it sticks: very high oil pressure, exploding oil filter, leaking oil trough seal to clutch.
Still can not figure out if valve near oil filter is the same!

This is the valve next to the oilpan:
H 2H 12HT Engine
part 15134-20010 gasket oil pump release
part 15131-22010 ; VALVE, OIL ADJUSTING; VALVE, OIL PUMP RELIEF. VALVE,RELIEF

Oil Pump Relief Valve and Spring to suit Toyota Landcruiser H 3.6L, 2H 4.0L and 12HT 4.0L 6 Cyl diesel engines.
Suit HJ45 with H engine 1/1975-6/1980, HJ47 HJ60 HJ75 with 2H engine 8/1980-12/1989 and HJ61 with 12HT engine 10/1985-12/1989.

Assemblies ENGINE OIL COOLER (4M; MX3#); ENGINE OIL PUMP (1600CC; TE3#,51); ENGINE OIL PUMP (1800CC; COROLLA (TE72)); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2200CC; CELICA (RA42)); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2200CC; CORONA (RT119); ATM,3-SPEED COLUMN SHIFT; 2200CC; CORONA (RT105); ATM,3-SPEED FLOOR SHIFT; 4D); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2200CC; CORONA (RT134)); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2200CC; TRUCK, PICKUP (RN32),42); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2H; LAND CRUISER (HJ60))

Seals are easily mixed (i searched a lot for this part that has a few versions and is used in every toyota model)

 

[hj 60]

Another set of differential washers, 1.6 mm and a 60% discount from my dutch benokurt, oil valve is not to be ordered anymore in europe but he got the computer program reopened and delivery from Japan will be three months.

This installation is becoming quite an anger management session, love it.
Now the clearing is 0.20 inch / .508 mm

So that is fine, end of scale, measured with two gauger feelers both inserted.

Pictures rotate when uploading (nokia windows phone vacum, replace for android this week)

no way to slide in, but RTFM! read c-clip instructions!

ready for tomorrow to continue:

 

[hj 60]

yes, while I am there I should do the rear bearings, seals...

Grinded a little bit of the top, that was not visible mushroomed, so when my neighbor passed by we talked a bit and agreed that I have to try like it is now, grinding is a panic attack to solve this.

My neighbor worked on helicopters so more techie than me :Eurocopter AS-532U2 Cougar Mk.II

no damage, just idiot proof:

But no need to grind, just RTFM! It seems I have to follow the c-clip instructions! and that involves some fiddling with replacing the c-clip.

LOKKA mentions floating with pictures of my semi floating diff, and a c-clip instruction (with a brake disk, spring suspension and different diff than me)
But the c-clip instructions are what I need, so no more problem
So if you order lokka, read both instructions!

 

[hj 60]

cookie if you understand this


So finally checked the inter cam gap: Must be between 0.145 to 0.165 inch (3.683 mm to 4.191 mm)

What a pain to get this puzzle together, advice is to use grease so they stick, but I first want to test what I am doing and grease will not help at this moment because will attract dirt, dirty hands. So the cam gears fall down (a lot ), should launch to orbit to work in non-gravity.

Used the following blades to measure inter cam gap:
inch 0.032 + 0.030 + 0.028 + 0.026 + 0.025 + 0.024 = 0.165 inch calculates 4.191 mm

mm 0.813 + 0.762 + 0.711 + 0.660 + 0.635 + 0.610 = 4.191 mm calculates 0.165 inches

So I would like the gap to be a little less than now at the end of scale: funny that I crawl under the cruiser to find end of scale precisely
To close this gap the shims must be thicker, but then the shaft gap will be smaller.

Now the shaft clearing is 0.020 inch 0.508 mm with 2x 1.60 mm shims
Lokka shaft spacer clearance should be 0.006 to 0.020 " = 0.178 to 0.508 mm
Only way is to buy/machine the old shims to 1.65 mm
0.05mm x2=0.10 - 0.058= 0.048 mm
That would close the shaft spacer clearance AND inter cam gap away from the end of scale

lol @ the rotating pictures, nokia windows error piece of jeep you are about to be tossed in 10 hours @work

 

[hj 60]

Need to think this over,
-buy/machine new shims or put it together. have T=1.55-1.65 (part 41361-60010), there is no other size in-between what was already there: T=1.70-1.80 (part 41361-60020) and by mistake got 41361-60040 T=2.00-2.10

-measure shaft clearing again to see if it is truly equal and maybe can fit one 1.60 and one old 1.75 (dont think so)

no hurry as it is not my daily driver anymore.



I was about to order but there is nothing to order, so go to machine shop (guy doing tractor pulling precise machining almost next-door)
or just install, rambling about 0,0 mm differences, let the LOKKA explode if it wants to

Asked LOKKA what is preferred: minimum or maximum clearance and driving difference.

Video that shows how to fiddle with the C-clip:



another c-clip starts at 11 minutes:



Started all over: use two feeler gauges to measure left and right at the same time.
For my own sake: recalculate: measuring human hair thickness
Now there are two things to measure during this installation and both are now at end of scale.
so from 1.75 to 1.60 mm shim was to much (from below scale to end of scale: plus 0.15 mm added right and left side:
total added 0.305 mm =0.012 inch)

so I should machine the 2.00 mm to 1.65, that would make everything precisely in the middle of scale.

 

[hj 60]

Enough of this hairsplitting tech, if we dont buy a house in the next months we planned to go to Croatia again: with the cruiser this time.
Somehow we end up in funny hotels, but the private beach is perfect:

Krk is the starting point coming from western europe, very busy but not were we visit :

krk Malinska hotel penthouse Haludovo
https://www.google.nl/maps/@45.1309679,14.5300791,410m/data=!3m1!1e3

 

[hj 60]

Hey! waiter, one coke please with 5 straws?

 

[hj 60]

 

[hj 60]

Abandoned Hotel:

D8 53
53284, Sveti Juraj, Kroatië
44.951384, 14.928153

Google Maps

EDIT, we came back the next year, the room we cleaned was completly stripped (I know it is a fact but still somehow sad, everything gets demolished and stripped)

So I walk to the corner room a bit further down the hall, the door is closed.
Open the door and there is a guy sitting in that room smoking and sitting behind a desk reading a book!
, all the stuff I collected is there, that room was bigger and better but had more glass debris, he cleaned it completely and so everything goes from bad to better!

did some cleaning and had to gather furniture from different hotel blocks:

 

[hj 60]

Next time bring chainsaw to cut some sea view blocking tree's

 

[hj 60]

 

[hj 60]

 

[hj 60]

 

[hj 60]

 

[hj 60]

Found by accident: Prisoner island Goli Otok
https://www.google.nl/maps/@44.8395614,14.8088571,575m/data=!3m1!1e3

 

[hj 60]

 

[hj 60]

 

[hj 60]

next thing will be a closed diff with working LOKKA

Very interesting: broken lokka pins:
If pins break the CV will break: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-lokka-is-this.466280/

Aussie Locker Pin & Spring Kit
PIN kit: http://www.aussielocker.com/index.php/accessories/aussie-locker-pin-spring-kit.html

16.7 mm long and 6.33mm to 6.37 mm in diameter, 1/4"

The wear on the lokka will directly make it out spec, one main reason to get the shims machined.

Answer from LOKKA:
-0.165" may lead to failure of the little pin dowles and springs.
-The Spacer is LESS IMPORTANT.

So is there a shop open on saturday?: no, Yes! but two of them can not machine this hardsteel.
And then a friend of my wife comes around, makes a picture of the 6 rings I have now and called the owner of a shop who could not do it, but another shop will do!
fine machine shop:

 

[hj 60]

2.00 mm thrust washers will be machined to 1.68 and must be fine then

Today bought this sideways rear bench from a hj61 and will install it properly and go to test station so it is legal and have 7 person insurance
Because the lc90 bench did not work out very happy with this;

Started welding the rear wheel arches:

 

[hj 60]

Well, LOKKA rear diff works (perfect, must have):

BEWARE WHEN INSTALLING:
-use two people to install, a lot of work needs two persons.
-when measuring first gap make sure the axle is not pushed inward because you will get wrong measurement (to small)
-when TWO PEOPLE! are testing the unbinding in gear push and keep one rear wheel forward and turn the other rear wheel backwards.
-the C-clips will fall al lot when not expected, but when you use grease to keep everything together everything will be a greasy mess!
-You might need 2 mm axle shim rings instead of the original 1.75 mm
-You MUST have a new differential CORK! gasket, the old cork one breaks while removing.
-Some of the 10 diff nuts will turn out the whole thread, no problem.
-Just look at the pictures how to install the little spings and pins !!

-INSTALLING WAS A PAIN!!1! READ MANUAL A FEW TIMES
Used old 1.75 plates, 2.00 was machined to 1.68 but probably 2.00 is best.
(insert anger management course here...)