Why do people make this so hard? Drill it to a standard size and use a freeze plug. Cost? A few pennies from NAPA and stupid easy.
The Cursed Build
- Thread starter Mudder
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Why do people make this so hard? Drill it to a standard size and use a freeze plug. Cost? A few pennies from NAPA and stupid easy.
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- #62
Actually its not that hard for me to make an block off either. Almost easier actually. I have access to cad and design and an auto plasma cutter
Plus, it looks real clean. Here is the plug on my 3FE manifold.
Like I said. No CAD required. No plasma required. Less time. Just a drill and a hammer which most common men have in the garage.
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- #65
Quick question. I do an update of what's left to do once I get on a computer. But that round plug to the left of the oil filter with the red ring is the knock sensor right?
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- #66
Well. I got everything installed. Went to crank the truck over and have no power. All the fuses are good connectors are good for the battery. I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the ignition its 7 pin while the plug is am 8pin. Anyone know if that is the case?
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- #67
Okay. I need help. I've set the trick to tdc checked and rechecked. I've got spark and fuel pressure. Everything is hooked up and the engine will crank but won't turn over. A u help?
Are you sure the distributor is stabbed correctly? Set the crank at TDC, then check that both rockers on #1 are loose, which assures the cam is also TDC. Then make sure the rotor is pointing at #1 in the cap.
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- #69
Yup. I did all that. Turned 180 made sure it wouldn't do that then returned 180 and put in the distributor and made sure it was at 1. I've got the fuel injectors hooked up and zero leaks and gas in the tank.
Try jumpering the Fp and B+ pins in the diagnostic connector, turn the key on, listen for the fuel pump running, then see if it starts.
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- #71
Did that too. Still not starting but the fuel pump is running. I've honestly out of ideas. Tomorrow I'm going to swap ignitions in hopes that maybe the 84 being 7 pin and 89 being 8 is the issue. I have no clue how it would be but I'm going to try it just to see.
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- #72
So it still won't run. Only cranking even with the 89 ignition hooked up. Plans are turn crank 180 and try. Even though I've checked 4 times now. Check for spark again and recheck for spark.
I'm reading your posts, can't offer much though.
Are you sure the injectors are firing? I wonder about those ground splices in the engine harness. If those fail, engine won't run.
Check the grounds? Should be 3: one in the engine harness that attaches to the intake, one at the back of the head to the firewall, and the big one from the battery for the starter.
Are you sure the injectors are firing? I wonder about those ground splices in the engine harness. If those fail, engine won't run.
Check the grounds? Should be 3: one in the engine harness that attaches to the intake, one at the back of the head to the firewall, and the big one from the battery for the starter.
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- #75
All those are good. I think I know what the issue is. No power to the ecu as my check engine light won't come on. So a mechanic printed me off some pages to help figure out what's going on there.
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- #76
As for the grounds I tore these harnesses all apart. Everyone and checked all connected and fixed all the bad ones.
IIRC, the ECU receives power from two sources. One is constant hot. The other is switched hot. Sounds like one or both is MIA, most likely the second.
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- #78
I'm guessing the second as well. But I have about 5 different print outs of things to check to make sure its getting power and if no places to check why. I'm going to deal with it tomorrow.
Well technically there is another one in the alternator harness, attaches to one of the engine mount bolts.
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- #80
That's the one pappy is talking about. And I do have that one hooked up. I had to redo a lot of wiring from when my truck caught on fire after I rolled it and that was one of the wires.
