The Cursed Build

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Swapped rear axles finally. Put the one from my 89 under since its 3" wider. Only issue is the diff didn't seal so now its leaking gear oil, easy fix though. When doing this swap you do need the u-bolt ads that go under the axles from the later axle as the earlier ones are smaller diameter. I'd post pictures but it was 17* when I was doing it and didn't feel like pulling off my gloves. I'll post up how I extended the e-brake cable though later tonight.
 
Yes that is my LSPV zip tied up and the brake work much better now, and the extension for the E-brake is a piece of 1/4 metal with two holes drilled in it that's about 3" long. It may look bad but it gets the job done!
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Well I took 'er up to the mountains tonight. let’s just say all the time reading has really paid off. Winched myself three times, popped a tired bead then had to winch some more without the tire on the bead. Also had to drive a little ways to get it back on. I then did the double shackle trick with my hi-lift and got the tire up enough, got the tire straight then put a ratchet strap around it to hold it in place. All this happened after it turned dark. Then with my little 12volt compressor reset the bead.
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So in getting this truck read for a 3k to 4k mile trip I'll be taking I've decided to do some engine work. I'm planning on a Toyota gasket kit for the head gasket, and Engnbldr street RV head with either a 270/430 or 268 cam. Do you guys think I should pull the engine and do the front and rear main as well as new piston rings and pistons? Or since it only has 210k on this engine I'd be fine with just doing the head gasket?
 
I you are pulling the cylinder head off I would do the timing chain while in there. Yes, to the front main seal ... it's stupid easy, especially if doing the timing chain. With the rear I would wait until you have an excuse to replace the clutch. As far as pistons/rings, have you done a compression test? If you are concerned, and willing, then do it.
 
I'll be doing a compression test. As for the timing chain I'm leaving that as I just did it about 2k miles ago with the steel rails. Front main I've got and its the 95 so it'll ride on a different part of the crank.
 
I would do a LEAKDOWN test, then when you get the head off, borrow a bore gauge and measure the cylinders, see how they are, check the FSM for allowable wear limits. Be sure to also check that the block is flat.
 
@KLF any reason you'd say leakdown over compression? Or would you suggest doing both
 
A compression test will only tell you that you have leakage in one or more cylinders. A leakdown test will tell you WHERE the leak is, and how bad it is.. If you have very low blowby, then no real need to get into the lower end.
 
Thank you KLF.
 
So as my truck has gotten scarier when driving it at high speeds I'm going to install High steer. My next question is has anyone done with to their stock Solid axle truck with the OME lift and if so what pitman arm did you use and did you have to notch the frame or not? The two High steers I'm debating betwwen is the All Pro one or Marlin Crawler.
 
Anyone have any OME greaseable pins? I'm looking for two back ones. Going to lift my truck another inch to have 3" of lift for high steer and I'm going to all straight shackles.
 
I had All-Pro on my 85 xcab. I have Marlin on my 4Runner. The only issue I have with both is the 555 rod ends suck and don't last. When they finally give up go to Toyota and get a set of FZJ80 ends. As I recall the cost is about the same if you buy from a discount dealer like Cruiser Dan. You can use the modified IFS pitman arm, or any of the choices out there (All-Pro has a nice one IIRC). I used one of the billet beef arms, but I can't remember who made it.

I recently installed greaseable shackles on my 4Runner from Marlin.
 
Anyone know of any 9/16 greasable pins on the market? When I went Chevys I had to give up my rear grease pins.
 
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Here's a picture of my truck now with the longer front shackles and the way they look. I'm not going to mess with the rear as you can't even notice the difference between the front and rear. Also, anyone notice what's missing?
 
No rear driveline.
 
Thanks for the offer but I'll have to decline. With my 2.5" it’s the heavy duty lift since I have a 600 pound flatbed on the back and I use it for hauling sometimes up to 700 pounds. I do have some stock height rear springs from an 88 though.
 

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