Build The 60/40 Project

[60 40]

Hey man, finally got those Corbeaus and I'm looking to get the same brackets fabricated here. It might be a long shot but would you happen to have the measurements for the passenger side? what kind of metal did you end up using for this?

I'm not a fan of numbers and I recycled my CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) template but fitting involved basic mounting point measurement and then fitting and drilling to those points after fabrication.

Material was 5/16" x 2" mild steel which bent well and was easy to drill but could support the seat. 1/4" might also work but gut feeling was for 5/16".

 

[60 40]

And like the sands through the hour glass so are the days of our lives...and the season has changed, its crab season!

 

[charliemeyer007]

You will own nothing and eat ze bugs! Some bugs are better than others!

I had Halibut today for the hell of it. Pecan pie with whipped cream, sadly no ice cream for desert.

 

[60 40]

Pulled out the rig to continue the carb tune, confirm timing and retorque the manifolds.

Started it up and went to check vacuum and timing but couldn't get it to idle, messed around for awhile thinking it was bad fuel then remembered I had rewired the vacuum fuel cut switch. Bypassed that and got it going but still having issues getting my multi meter tach to work so looks like I need a new tachometer and probably a vacuum fuel cut switch.

Good news was the the vacuum gauge numbers looked decent and should improve once I can read RPM and tune the carb.

Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!

 

[60 40]

I had Halibut today for the hell of it. Pecan pie with whipped cream, sadly no ice cream for desert.

I really like halibut but it's so easy to over cook, still can't cook it right so these days I typically eat it as ceviche or sashimi.

Sorry about the ice cream.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I learned with elk backstrap and milk soaked egg battered saltine cracker Crappie comma steaks about how easy to over cook things.

 

[60 40]

I was able to get the initial timing set at 7° advanced using this old timing light my buddy gave me, utilizing my tinkering skills it was brought back to life with a cord from an old lamp and lots of wire splices (surprising how many tiny wires lead to the inductive pickup clip).

Still needed a tachometer so upgraded my timing light and rechecked and was pleased to see the old school light was right on......

.......however RPM was at 950 and after locating my idle and mixture screws went through a rough lean drop and was able to get it down to 650, next I'm going to experiment with advancing the timing to 11 or above and see If I can bring up the vacuum any more.

I was hoping bring the idle down would cure my my vacuum idle fuel cut switch issues but after reattaching it I still have fuel delivery surges so I'll just keep it bypassed for now till I can locate a functional one.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Nothing wrong with that vacuum @640 RPM. You can run a lot more advance in the summer than in the winter - unless you let it warm up then up the advance. To much advance when starting cold, will kick back and rip your starter apart/out.

 

[wngrog]

Nothing wrong with that vacuum @640 RPM. You can run a lot more advance in the summer than in the winter - unless you let it warm up then up the advance. To much advance when starting cold, will kick back and rip your starter apart/out.

Never knew that about too much advance. I tend to run a lot of advance. Never had it happen (yet)

 

[60 40]

Nothing wrong with that vacuum @640 RPM.

I'm thinking it's good to go!

Considering the shape of the 60 this 2F came out of I took a bit of a gamble but seems to not have any significant issues.

 

[charliemeyer007]

In the summer I run the straight mechanical advance at just going out the window. No having kick back and breaking things is good.

 

[60 40]

Happy New year!

End of the rockfish season and moved onto trying to figure out why my coolant temp gauge is reading reverse, well it turns out the 1983 temperature sender isn't compatible with the 1969 gauge.

Pilfered the old sender from the scrap motor then learning it's not a strait swap and lost a fair bit of coolent ... ....apparently I will need to drain the coolent at least a bit and then swap the longer adapter piece along with the sender.

 

[60 40]

Then to deal with what I think was a no charging issue went to pull the alternator but looks like dummy that's putting this build together put the mounting bolt on backward...WTF was I thinking . After undoing that cluster #&$- got it out and had my remanufactured alternator rebuilt locally. Wonder how many times can it be rebuilt?

Anyways check it out,

before....

And after!

Cost a bit but seems like options are limited these days.

 

[60 40]

Then herring season!

And tried to fix my vacuum idle fuel cut switch with some solder but once plugged back in the rig runs for a bit and then stalls as it loses fuel.

So back to the strait to ground bypass and it runs fine.

 

[60 40]

Also got some new struts for the rear hatch for when I eventually get to the strut mod and cleaning up the hard top.

Used a combination of gaffer and electrical tape to magically "restore" and install my heater and defrost ducts.

Before....

and after.

2026 is off to a bit of a rough start but still optimistic!

 

[60 40]

Time for an update!

Drained the coolent and swapped the temperature sender to the one from the old motor.

Snapped a couple pictures for the insurance.

And renewed my AAA membership for some free tows and to avoid having to take time off work to wait hours at DMV. Renewed my tags then drove it around the block, couple leaks and I can confirm the steering wheel is too big so I will need to get an adapter and aftermarket or something Toyota steering wheel? What steering wheels fit on the earlier 69 steering shaft (I think it's 36 splines)??

Also had a leak from the valve cover gasket which tightening fasteners fixed but the rear heater core seems to be done and I will probably just delete it.

Back to draining the coolent...

 

[60 40]

Oh and had a strange clanging when I drove it even when just using the starter to move it around, turned out I had one of the mounting bolts for the front drive shaft in totally loose and was in four wheel drive. Put it back in two wheel and tightened that up, musta fixed it because drove around the neighborhood about a mile and the clanging is gone!

.......and while rolling around under there I also noticed both my rear motor mount bolts were super loose very happy to find that now rather than later.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Whats the next fish season and ah yea…Nice build

 

[60 40]

Whats the next fish season and ah yea…Nice build

Thanks for asking.


Halibut just started again, went down to Monterey yesterday and picked up a couple 36" flatties, some mackerel and two squid!

 

[60 40]

Nothing super glamorous but drained the coolent again and pulled the rear heater and heater hoses. Didn't get any before pictures but it was a mixture of orange and black domestic hoses from when I bought the truck 35 years ago and rusty hose clamps. Was a messy situation and every time I cleaned up some of that red coolent it seemed to leak out somewhere else but in the end the amount I spilled or leaked was less that the volume of the heater and hoses that were deleated.

Swapped in a couple 90° pipes for the original three way type heater pipes at the fire wall, it was a struggle in geometry to make it work but I prevailed! I'll probably purchase one strait pipe piece to replace one of the 90°s and get the hoses routed a bit nicer next time I drain the coolent......

New heater hose had thinner walls so used the City Racer Stainless hose clamps which were a little smaller and fit better than the OEM hose clamps.

And then drove it around the block ...... at this point the vehicle has zero leaks!