The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread (5 Viewers)

[TheBussman]

1HD-T with 8CM Holset HE250, twin scroll housing and manifold. 3" exhaust, plazmaman air to water intercooler.
turbine: 59mm/ 49mm
compressor: 69mm/50mm

I'm surprised to see how little interest there is in twin scroll setups on these 6cyl engines. Mounted up and in the truck, hoping to have it on the road in a few months. predictions?

 

[lean2lux]

Thank you bj70bc and TheBussman. I will mount it back up and run some more tests.

 

[bj70bc]

^^this
that kinugawa will brap, dont start tearing it down yet

 

[BrickRunner]

I have read a bunch of this thread trying to find some current info, but I can’t get an answer to my problem. I am looking for help on changing my turbine wheel and possibly compressor wheel (if I need to while I’m at it.) I have a 1HZ with a small front mount intercooler and 3” free flow exhaust. I want low RPM boost and keep my EGTs as low as possible. I'm OK if I don’t go past 3500rpm I probably never go past 3200rpm ever anyway. I have a new Kinugawa Turbo 3" TD05H-16G 7cm - with Compressor wheel: 48.5 / 68.0 mm - Turbine wheel: 56 / 49.2 mm. I chose a comp wheel billet 6+6 and a turbine wheel 10 blade STS 5+5 (I think the 5+5 is my mistake.) I thought the new tech would be superior, but I bet that its probably for high rev gassers because I can’t even boost past 5psi and that’s getting up to 3krpm foot to the floor. It barely starts boosting at 2k-2200 rpm. I already set up and tuned my truck with a cheap ct26 turbo from maxpeedingrods before forking out the money to buy the Kinugawa. With the cheepo turbo I was keeping the EGTs below 550C and only boosting to 15psi max so not to blow it up. So I expect to see some similar boost with the Kinugawa. I have not added more fuel since installing the Kinugawa. I want to take this turbo apart and change the wheels. What wheels should I swap to? I see the Kinugawa has a turbine 12 blade and I’m thinking that’s what I need. Should I do anything to change the comp wheel too while I’m opening and balancing? I would appreciate all/any help that you guys can give. And thanks for taking the time.

I recently installed a kinugawa on my 2H. I bought the extra waste gate spring kit with various springs at different rates. The standard waste gate spring in their actuator was listed as 1 bar/14.7 psi, but wouldn't build boost past .5 bar/7.4 psi. I swapped the waste gate spring out for one of the stiffer springs and now sit at a nice .7 bar/10psi of boost. I could go higher as there are yet stiffer springs in the spring kit.

 

[lean2lux]

It's a waste gate issue thanks so much guys! When i bought it, I asked them for a 1.5 bar waste gate but s*** maybe they either didn't do it or they put a 0.5 bar? Damn so much work oh well. At least i didnt take it apart! I bypassed the pressure tube for the waste gate actuator got another 2 psi. Wired it shut got it to 10 psi. Now I will wire it tighter maybe incorporate a spring with my wire job until I get that spring kit. Thanks so much again for the help!

 

[bj70bc]

I recently installed a kinugawa on my 2H. I bought the extra waste gate spring kit with various springs at different rates. The standard waste gate spring in their actuator was listed as 1 bar/14.7 psi, but wouldn't build boost past .5 bar/7.4 psi. I swapped the waste gate spring out for one of the stiffer springs and now sit at a nice .7 bar/10psi of boost. I could go higher as there are yet stiffer springs in the spring kit.

i too have a kinugawa and its my suspicion that these waste gate springs dont take into account the exhaust manifold pressures, as that works to force open the waste gate as well, also the wastegate arm needs to have a certain amount of preload set on it, i cranked on the preload so that you have to pull the acctuator arm to set the pin in the waste gate arm. it helps

 

[lean2lux]

Waste gate now shut with an extra external spring doesn't crack till 30psi (checked by adding pressure to my waste gate actuator) and actuater is still disabeld, but it still builds boost too late. Doesn't get to 10psi until I'm maxed fuel at 3K-3200RPM. Hangs around 5psi from 22k until 3k when it gets to 10psi. I'm still considering changing the turbine wheel. But after I re-read some of this thread, I saw Dougal recommends the STS9. Also stating the "split blade" assuming STS55 is for high rev ricers. Also learned more about EMP and im considering making a gauge for that. I do notice some improvements mainly from 1k-2kRpm in power eventhough it's basically 2psi or less boost. I think EMPS must be lower now. Exhaust is flowing more freely. Should I swap to the STS 9 blade turbine? any changes to the compression wheel? Again I currently have the STS55 and the 6+6 compressor wheel. Any thoughts are appreciated

 

[bj70bc]

never heard of a 5+5 turbine mines a sts 9 or 10 blade, works good, builds boost really early, your turbo might be too big but i know nothing about sizing that on your engine, dougal or kiwi does tho

 

[bj70bc]

you may want to go after boost leaks first though too...

 

[KiwiDingo]

I've said it many many times, the stock wheel sizes on the CT26 is a really nice match. It's just the outdated wheel designs that need upgrading, which is easily done. That new turbo you have now @lean2lux has a much larger comp wheel inducer which puts quite a load on the turbine wheel. You also choose the turbine wheel design with the least amount of turbine drive at low rpm which isn't a bad thing as it makes up for it in other areas but with your driving style of not wanting to rev much then I'm afraid you're never going to be as happy with the boost gauge numbers with that turbo as you where with even a cheap CT26. Just remember though, boost numbers don't really mean much.

I do like how you've noticed that even though you are making less boost now you still feel as though you've gained performance in certain areas. Once you get your head around this and the reason why it's better you'll start heading down a path which really opens up the performance and improved drivability.

 

[s13koop]

@KiwiDingo
Would you say a Munro turbo might be a good fit for someone wanting to upgrade from stock? (1HD-FT)
Did a 3000+mi trip last month and while it did fine deff could feel "slow" at times when loaded and pulling hills.
Or am I better off starting with the boost compensator/star wheel settings.

 

[KiwiDingo]

@KiwiDingo
Would you say a Munro turbo might be a good fit for someone wanting to upgrade from stock? (1HD-FT)
Did a 3000+mi trip last month and while it did fine deff could feel "slow" at times when loaded and pulling hills.
Or am I better off starting with the boost compensator/star wheel settings.

Munro turbos do great work. They can build turbos to meet your own needs.

That being said, a completely stock FT has a lot of room for improvement with just simple pump adjustments. It was severely detuned from the factory to meet emissions at the time. You'd be amazed how much of a difference just doing this can make.

 

[s13koop]

Munro turbos do great work. They can build turbos to meet your own needs.

That being said, a completely stock FT has a lot of room for improvement with just simple pump adjustments. It was severely detuned from the factory to meet emissions at the time. You'd be amazed how much of a difference just doing this can make.

Yea, thats what I keep reading. I went thru that whole thread on 1HD pump tuning. Just a bit apprehensive on messing with it. Luckily there's a ton of starting guides.

 

[lean2lux]

Thanks Bj70bc. I dont think I have any leaks. I have had them before but I have it pretty dialed in now. Thank you KiwiDingo for the response. I'm pretty sure I won't be keeping this turbine though. I could try to add fuel but I'm already hitting 600C reving to 33k getting up to 13 psi. And the power is just not there until I'm too high revs. Difficult on hills to even maintain. had to drop to 3rd where I probably coulda maintained 5th before. Not sure the EMPs though. Do you think the SST 9 blade would be a better match with the comp wheel I have and my rev preferences? Is there other options I should consider for even lower RPM boost? Should I also change the comp wheel?

 

[bj70bc]

some people say 11 blade is better for low down stuff, idk what is best, im just a layman

 

[BrickRunner]

Thanks Bj70bc. I dont think I have any leaks. I have had them before but I have it pretty dialed in now. Thank you KiwiDingo for the response. I'm pretty sure I won't be keeping this turbine though. I could try to add fuel but I'm already hitting 600C reving to 33k getting up to 13 psi. And the power is just not there until I'm too high revs. Difficult on hills to even maintain. had to drop to 3rd where I probably coulda maintained 5th before. Not sure the EMPs though. Do you think the SST 9 blade would be a better match with the comp wheel I have and my rev preferences? Is there other options I should consider for even lower RPM boost? Should I also change the comp wheel?

I think you might need to turn up the fuel. It's counter intuitive, but this can lean it out and lower Egts. You might not be supplying the turbo with enough energy to spool it up.
"Lighting the turbo" is a term that is often thrown around. Boost is a function of exhaust energy, (heat and pressure), not just engine RPM. By adding more fuel, you are delivering more energy to the turbo, which can then create more boost and deliver more air.

 

[bj70bc]

^^ worth a try, definitely could help
my experience was, with a bit more than stock fueling i could turn up the boost to above 20psi with wastegate mods,
this doesnt necessarily mean alot more power tho, power seemed more related to fuel load than psi ( which makes sense )
more psi did cool the egts for sure (without adding fuel that is)

 

[lean2lux]

I will play with the fuel I haven't touched it since the new Kinaguawa install. I did play a lot with the other ct26 and I believe it's up from stock. It's hard to tell cause I replaced my altitude compensator to a boost compensator and don't really know where original setting truly is/was. Cause the screw, and some hardware, get put into the new compensator. Definitely worth a shot though. With my limited experience I'm anticipating EGTs to rise but I'll be careful and see what I get

 

[Dougal]

Waste gate now shut with an extra external spring doesn't crack till 30psi (checked by adding pressure to my waste gate actuator) and actuater is still disabeld, but it still builds boost too late. Doesn't get to 10psi until I'm maxed fuel at 3K-3200RPM. Hangs around 5psi from 22k until 3k when it gets to 10psi. I'm still considering changing the turbine wheel. But after I re-read some of this thread, I saw Dougal recommends the STS9. Also stating the "split blade" assuming STS55 is for high rev ricers. Also learned more about EMP and im considering making a gauge for that. I do notice some improvements mainly from 1k-2kRpm in power eventhough it's basically 2psi or less boost. I think EMPS must be lower now. Exhaust is flowing more freely. Should I swap to the STS 9 blade turbine? any changes to the compression wheel? Again I currently have the STS55 and the 6+6 compressor wheel. Any thoughts are appreciated

Exhaust or intake manifold leaks? It takes very little leak to lose a lot of boost.

 

[bj70bc]

my thought process was it is loosing boost to a leak until the turbo overcomes that and pushes through
dumb question,
did you plug the boost line when you unplugged it to the wastegate