The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thankyou again.
Having a deeper look into the local availability, it seems that there is an better availability of Mitsubishi turbo's and goodies here. Most have the funny OEM compressor housings but good solid TD4 cores are available. I have not seen too many AR values on the turbine housings but I am assuming the the 6cm and 7cm inlets say it all, and that i should go with the 6cm (lower AR, faster spool ) looking at my wishlist . Building off of a good core now makes sense to me as it leaves options all round.
As an opening bid, using my basic understandings so far say: TD04HL-19T. Lower AR turbine housing , lower ( 9??) turbine blade count, higher compressor blade count ( 11) still not sure about the compressor housing. Is anti surge even necessary in my application/ wheel choice. can it hurt to have it anyway ??
Stay with the lower AR's ??
shoot me down, i have a thick skin and am busy learning fast.
G
 
Gengis said:
Thankyou again.
Having a deeper look into the local availability, it seems that there is an better availability of Mitsubishi turbo's and goodies here. Most have the funny OEM compressor housings but good solid TD4 cores are available. I have not seen too many AR values on the turbine housings but I am assuming the the 6cm and 7cm inlets say it all, and that i should go with the 6cm (lower AR, faster spool ) looking at my wishlist . Building off of a good core now makes sense to me as it leaves options all round.
As an opening bid, using my basic understandings so far say: TD04HL-19T. Lower AR turbine housing , lower ( 9??) turbine blade count, higher compressor blade count ( 11) still not sure about the compressor housing. Is anti surge even necessary in my application/ wheel choice. can it hurt to have it anyway ??
Stay with the lower AR's ??
shoot me down, i have a thick skin and am busy learning fast.
G
Click to expand...

MHI used cm for A/R values. Their turbines are generally smaller and more active than Garrett turbos with the same compressor size.

6-7cm turbine housing will be fine. Turbine blades you want 11. 12 is the original but it's an older and less efficient design. 11 blades is fast spool which is ideal for diesels at altitude, 9 blades is high flow for ricers.
Compressor blades don't matter much. Extended tip compressors are better for surge resistance. Anti-surge isn't necessary but most will have it.

A stock 1HZ IMO go 12psi max, no need to intercool. This will give you sea-level power plus a bit more on stock fuel and will run clean.
 
Hallo everyone from italy, I found this topic with HELP of Mudgudgeon who suggested me this topic in order to find some infos about various model of CT26. 111 pages of information in english language are very hard to read and traslate in real time, but i'll do it. As most of you, I'm tring to upgrade, soft upgrade....., my CT26 1hdft by changing only 5+5 wheel with 6+6 billed wheel, nothing else, for tring do gain some little horse in the range 1000~1500rpm. I have not your knowledge about the question, so i will play and hope to gain something more the stock engine. I added intercooler on top in 2004 and made some adjustments on the pump.....stay tuned 4 my damages to my 1hd-ft :) :)
 
andrea-PE-ITALY said:
Hallo everyone from italy, I found this topic with HELP of Mudgudgeon who suggested me this topic in order to find some infos about various model of CT26. 111 pages of information in english language are very hard to read and traslate in real time, but i'll do it. As most of you, I'm tring to upgrade, soft upgrade....., my CT26 1hdft by changing only 5+5 wheel with 6+6 billed wheel, nothing else, for tring do gain some little horse in the range 1000~1500rpm. I have not your knowledge about the question, so i will play and hope to gain something more the stock engine. I added intercooler on top in 2004 and made some adjustments on the pump.....stay tuned 4 my damages to my 1hd-ft :) :)
Click to expand...
Hello,
you only have really two simple options.
I highly recommend to install an intercooler. Front mount is a lot of work.
Top mount is much less work, the kits are available from chongfeng industries. But you have to cut out your bonnet.
1. the Ct20 turbo from the 1HD-FT
2. the turbo hybrid from Mamba. TD05-18G (7cm turbine housing with 12-11 wheel pairing)
I recommend the CT20, you need much less parts and the fitment is easy and it works well.
I used the Mamba which was a lot of work and cost more than a original CT20. (not from Toyota obviously)

Good luck,
Stephan
 
@andrea-PE-ITALY I agree with above.

A ct20b turbo from a hdj100, or 1hdfte (not VNT type) will give you more torque at lower RPM. it's not a direct bolt on, but close.
CT20B will boost at lower RPM, but also runs out of flow a bit at higher RPM

Or search up MambaTek for options.
They have some that will give low end torque and still be bolt on.

All this is discussed in here.
 
As you’re in Europe you could also look into Wink 4x4 in the Netherlands, they have ct26 turbos with no core exchange that are plug and play on the shelf that require no modifications for install other than maybe a slight tune. I’m not sure what the specs are, but they offer a smaller turbo(I assume high flowed with a billet wheel) for bottom end grunt/a step up from stock, and a larger turbo for top end high speed moves.

Not sure how this would apply to the FT, but they seem very knowledgeable in regards to the HDT applications and I’m sure it’s pretty close
 
good morning all,thanks 4 your opinions but I have the problem...I can't afford to spend money for playing at this moment, that's why I wish to do some experiment by using my available devices an material. At the moment I have another CT26 of hdj80 24v, some part of another CT26 12v, two billet from KTS, model 2601 and 2601C that fits perfectly with cold shell of CT26 24V, they are 6+6 instead of 5+5 of original. The 2601C has his nose more slim than 2601 and original, so, I hope to gain a little of air (not too much) at low rpm. In italy we do offroad @very low speed, we do not have conditions for high speed in offroad. So, at the moment this is the only experiment I can do without spend too much money.
In attachment some pics about my available material for my poor experiment.

48gr.jpg


different nose nuove.jpg


fredde 24-12 fronte.jpg


fredde24-12.jpg


24v full.jpg
 
andrea-PE-ITALY said:
good morning all,thanks 4 your opinions but I have the problem...I can't afford to spend money for playing at this moment, that's why I wish to do some experiment by using my available devices an material. At the moment I have another CT26 of hdj80 24v, some part of another CT26 12v, two billet from KTS, model 2601 and 2601C that fits perfectly with cold shell of CT26 24V, they are 6+6 instead of 5+5 of original. The 2601C has his nose more slim than 2601 and original, so, I hope to gain a little of air (not too much) at low rpm. In italy we do offroad @very low speed, we do not have conditions for high speed in offroad. So, at the moment this is the only experiment I can do without spend too much money.
In attachment some pics about my available material for my poor experiment.

View attachment 3636138

View attachment 3636139

View attachment 3636140

View attachment 3636141

View attachment 3636142
Click to expand...

That turbine is why the CT26 is not an efficient turbo. It's like an old boat paddle wheel.
 
Dont just judge a book by it's old looking cover. That type of turbine wheel design is actually why it can be such an amazingly efficient turbo. It just all depend on where you want your efficiency. Radial flow turbines excel in different areas compared to the mixed flow / axial flow turbines. There's lots of different aftermarket turbine options for the CT26 these days so you can choose one to suit your own needs.
 
I have read a bunch of this thread trying to find some current info, but I can’t get an answer to my problem. I am looking for help on changing my turbine wheel and possibly compressor wheel (if I need to while I’m at it.) I have a 1HZ with a small front mount intercooler and 3” free flow exhaust. I want low RPM boost and keep my EGTs as low as possible. I'm OK if I don’t go past 3500rpm I probably never go past 3200rpm ever anyway. I have a new Kinugawa Turbo 3" TD05H-16G 7cm - with Compressor wheel: 48.5 / 68.0 mm - Turbine wheel: 56 / 49.2 mm. I chose a comp wheel billet 6+6 and a turbine wheel 10 blade STS 5+5 (I think the 5+5 is my mistake.) I thought the new tech would be superior, but I bet that its probably for high rev gassers because I can’t even boost past 5psi and that’s getting up to 3krpm foot to the floor. It barely starts boosting at 2k-2200 rpm. I already set up and tuned my truck with a cheap ct26 turbo from maxpeedingrods before forking out the money to buy the Kinugawa. With the cheepo turbo I was keeping the EGTs below 550C and only boosting to 15psi max so not to blow it up. So I expect to see some similar boost with the Kinugawa. I have not added more fuel since installing the Kinugawa. I want to take this turbo apart and change the wheels. What wheels should I swap to? I see the Kinugawa has a turbine 12 blade and I’m thinking that’s what I need. Should I do anything to change the comp wheel too while I’m opening and balancing? I would appreciate all/any help that you guys can give. And thanks for taking the time.
 
wheels arent the problem, something else is going on there
 
lean2lux said:
I have read a bunch of this thread trying to find some current info, but I can’t get an answer to my problem. I am looking for help on changing my turbine wheel and possibly compressor wheel (if I need to while I’m at it.) I have a 1HZ with a small front mount intercooler and 3” free flow exhaust. I want low RPM boost and keep my EGTs as low as possible. I'm OK if I don’t go past 3500rpm I probably never go past 3200rpm ever anyway. I have a new Kinugawa Turbo 3" TD05H-16G 7cm - with Compressor wheel: 48.5 / 68.0 mm - Turbine wheel: 56 / 49.2 mm. I chose a comp wheel billet 6+6 and a turbine wheel 10 blade STS 5+5 (I think the 5+5 is my mistake.) I thought the new tech would be superior, but I bet that its probably for high rev gassers because I can’t even boost past 5psi and that’s getting up to 3krpm foot to the floor. It barely starts boosting at 2k-2200 rpm. I already set up and tuned my truck with a cheap ct26 turbo from maxpeedingrods before forking out the money to buy the Kinugawa. With the cheepo turbo I was keeping the EGTs below 550C and only boosting to 15psi max so not to blow it up. So I expect to see some similar boost with the Kinugawa. I have not added more fuel since installing the Kinugawa. I want to take this turbo apart and change the wheels. What wheels should I swap to? I see the Kinugawa has a turbine 12 blade and I’m thinking that’s what I need. Should I do anything to change the comp wheel too while I’m opening and balancing? I would appreciate all/any help that you guys can give. And thanks for taking the time.
Click to expand...
I don't think its the wheels either unless they shipped it to you with wheels that don't match the housing or something. I'd look really hard at the waste-gate to make sure its sealing up good, maybe wire it shut tight just for a test and see what happens.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

mcg
HDJ81V 1HD-T Vs. 1HD-FT
Replies
15
Views
2K
SNLC
SNLC
MUDZLLA
Sluggish 1HD-T Off The Line
Replies
4
Views
808
MUDZLLA
MUDZLLA
SKULLGRINDER
1HD-T VALVE SHIM MATRIX PDF
Replies
0
Views
274
SKULLGRINDER
SKULLGRINDER
SKULLGRINDER
1HD-T oil pressure sender I.D.
Replies
1
Views
335
SKULLGRINDER
SKULLGRINDER

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom