1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Temporary primer

Discussion in 'Paint and Body' started by abosely, Mar 29, 2018.

  1. abosely

    abosely

    Messages:
    525
    Likes Received:
    49
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2006
    Location:
    Big Island Hawaii
    What is a primer to prevent steel from rusting for a while, that would be reasonably easy to remove with stripper disc/flap disc a few months later?

    I need to prime the frame, but a few months later need to take it down to bare steel for final coating.

    Also that will stick to itself when redcoating places already primed.

    But want something that won’t get gummy when stripping it with stripper disc/flap disc when I need to clean places to weld and then later completely take back to bare steel, but will keep it from rusting in the meantime.

    Don’t want something that bonds and sticks like there’s no tomorrow! Lol

    In a rattle can.

    Cheers, Allen
     
  2. Splangy

    Splangy SILVER Star

    Messages:
    6,425
    Likes Received:
    889
    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2009
    Location:
    New Hampshire
    Why would it have to be primed now and why not blast it when it comes time for paint?
     
  3. abosely

    abosely

    Messages:
    525
    Likes Received:
    49
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2006
    Location:
    Big Island Hawaii
    It’s a pain working with it being rusty.
    I’m on Big Island and the volcanic rain is really acidic and rusts metal real quickl.
    If the rain gets directly on bare metal it rusts badly over night.

    Bit of a pain. Lol
     
  4. gregnash

    gregnash Anal Retentive Analyst SILVER Star

    Messages:
    8,647
    Likes Received:
    2,244
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Ok I am confused... you are looking for a primer that is not really a primer?

    I understand you are attempting to protect your frame from the acidic rain to keep from getting flash rust, but you want to use a primer that will not adhere to the metal? And you want something that will not gum up your abrasive discs when you remove it?

    - Primer doesn't really "gum up" unless it is not completely cured (from my understanding) so you may be confusing the primer with some other type of protective coating.
    - Primer is made to adhere to metal as a base coat over clean metal, and in some causes already protected metal that has been scoured to create a bonding surface. Regardless, primer should always stick to other primer, sometimes there are compatibility issues with certain brands but for the most part, primer is primer is primer. (Yes I realize there are different types but they all serve the same purpose)

    You talk about wanting it to be on there and protect "for a while"? What does that exactly mean? Are you talking months or weeks?
    Also, with flap discs if you have thick metal, like a frame, you should be using a low grit disc to get everything off (say 36grit) as you are prepping the metal for adhesion of a new protective layer and want something for that layer to grab too. Now mind you, prep is 90% of the job so you will want to ensure everything is clean to the PRIMERS specifications prior to shooting the primer.

    Finally, rattle can primer will not be as high a quality as a spray on, professional type primer. You CAN get those types (2k primer) in a can that have a special catalyzer module that you break to mix but other than that, most rattle cans will do the bare minimum to protect your frame. Since you are in a humid environment you might want to look at spraying the frame with fish oil or something like that to protect the frame. Removal of that stuff is a whole different story that I have not looked into though. Just a thought.
     
  5. abosely

    abosely

    Messages:
    525
    Likes Received:
    49
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2006
    Location:
    Big Island Hawaii
    Lol I guess I need to explain it better. :)

    You answered one question/concern, about primer not getting gummy when grinding it.

    I used some white rattle can paint at first to make it easier to see my marks & lines, but when I cleaned it off it would get kind of gummy when grinding it off.

    What I want to do is clean the flash rust off and keep everything from rusting for the next 6 months or so while while working on different things on the build.

    I want to use a rattle can primer, but not one that is a good primer that bonds extremely well, or that can be ground off reasonably easy, to go down to bare metal later when ready to apply finish coatings.

    So I guess just any cheap rattle can primer will work and won’t be a major pain to strip later.

    For example, I don’t want to use a good 2K primer because it would bond very well and be more effort to remove later.

    I’m going to be using Buzzweld coatings from the U.K. buzzweld.co.uk

    I have a build page on FB 69’ Series IIA Build if anyone wants to see what I’m building.
    I’m building a new chassis from scratch.

    Cheers, Allen
     
  6. gregnash

    gregnash Anal Retentive Analyst SILVER Star

    Messages:
    8,647
    Likes Received:
    2,244
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Location:
    Carson City, NV
    Ok then yeah you are basically looking for any primer to get on there... Other option would be to get a large can of rustoleum and just roll it on. Would save you some money vs. buying tons of rattle cans but would be a bit more labor intensive.