Pennziol and QuakerState are now one. Maybe that is why Pennziol is better now 
kurt
kurt
Synthetic Oil
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Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
I thought quaker state was notorious for sludging and contained a lot of junk like wax?
semlin
curmudgeon
This is a thread worthy of an old usenet group. I can't believe I'm brave enough to be posting to it.
C-Dan how does your oil pressure look with the new oil when it's good and warm? Which filter are you using? I am very interested in remedying the same issue. I also notice it drops just a tad further when I idle in gear.
Also, can someone explain again why we shouldn't all use 0w-40? I mean if it works and the big range is not an issue, why would we try anything else?
Semlin (whose oil filler cap says 10w30 on it but what does Toyota know)
C-Dan how does your oil pressure look with the new oil when it's good and warm? Which filter are you using? I am very interested in remedying the same issue. I also notice it drops just a tad further when I idle in gear.
Also, can someone explain again why we shouldn't all use 0w-40? I mean if it works and the big range is not an issue, why would we try anything else?
Semlin (whose oil filler cap says 10w30 on it but what does Toyota know)
Rogue,
Yes, Pennsylvania is the Quaker state. The first oil well in the world was drilled here in 1859 by Edwin Drake. Pennsylvania produced 80 percent of the world's consumption for two decades. Until about 10 years ago or so Pennsoil and Quaker state had on their oil containers produced from the finest Pennsylvania crude oil. Now who knows where it comes from. Here is a boring link that mentions why the oil is so desired.
http://www.wetestit.com/Crude_101.htm
$.02 worth.
Bill
Yes, Pennsylvania is the Quaker state. The first oil well in the world was drilled here in 1859 by Edwin Drake. Pennsylvania produced 80 percent of the world's consumption for two decades. Until about 10 years ago or so Pennsoil and Quaker state had on their oil containers produced from the finest Pennsylvania crude oil. Now who knows where it comes from. Here is a boring link that mentions why the oil is so desired.
http://www.wetestit.com/Crude_101.htm
$.02 worth.
Bill
Simon,
I'm using the 90915-20004 filter,same as always. For ever my oil was Valvoline 10-30 All-Climate (API SL/SJ). I switched to Valvoline All-Fleet Plus 15-40 (API CH-4,CG-4,CF/SJ).
With the 10-30 I had a hot engine-low idle pressure of just above the lowest mark on the gauge. It would rapidly rise if the RPM was increased even modestly. I also had the start-up "rattle" off an on for ages. With the 15-40 the hot engine-low idle pressure is significantly higher and I have been listening intently for the "rattle" at every engine start and have yet to hear it.
Recently I was visiting with my factory technical buddy(a fellow Cruiser-head BTW) and he mentioned in passing(his private observation,not factory Gospel) that his experience was the heavier oil did exactly what I described to him. He further stated that the reason 10-30 (or in some cases 5-30) was specified was because that was the oil used during the EPA certification process of said vehicles. EPA doesn't like it if one "tests" with one oil and "specifies" another. (Big brother, no doubt).
This would certainly go a long way to explaining the different oil recommendations for the Austrailian vehicles.
MY .02 Dan
I'm using the 90915-20004 filter,same as always. For ever my oil was Valvoline 10-30 All-Climate (API SL/SJ). I switched to Valvoline All-Fleet Plus 15-40 (API CH-4,CG-4,CF/SJ).
With the 10-30 I had a hot engine-low idle pressure of just above the lowest mark on the gauge. It would rapidly rise if the RPM was increased even modestly. I also had the start-up "rattle" off an on for ages. With the 15-40 the hot engine-low idle pressure is significantly higher and I have been listening intently for the "rattle" at every engine start and have yet to hear it.
Recently I was visiting with my factory technical buddy(a fellow Cruiser-head BTW) and he mentioned in passing(his private observation,not factory Gospel) that his experience was the heavier oil did exactly what I described to him. He further stated that the reason 10-30 (or in some cases 5-30) was specified was because that was the oil used during the EPA certification process of said vehicles. EPA doesn't like it if one "tests" with one oil and "specifies" another. (Big brother, no doubt).
This would certainly go a long way to explaining the different oil recommendations for the Austrailian vehicles.
MY .02 Dan
CruserDan,
The EPA requirements are even more strict than what you were told. The EPA now requires that manufactures 1) fill the autos with the oil that they are tested with, 2) list the weight used as the recommended weight, and 3) sign a sworn statement (I don't know what the penalty is for violating it) that their dealers will use the weight of oil recommended.
After all of my research I have come to the conclusion that we should look at what the Europe/Austrailian recommendations are for oil weight when the same engine is used worldwide. I will note again that he Aus spec says you can use 10w-30, 15w-40, and 20w-50 up to 100F.
Mobil 0w-40 appears to be the best choice for worldwide use. My only potential concern (and this is the footnote to a footnote) is that it takes more viscosity modifiers to make a 0w-40 sythetic oil than a 5w-40 or 10w-30. It is the viscosity modifiers that break down over time and can leave sludge. Given that the 0w-40 is a high quality base stock, and this oil is used by Austin Martin, Mercedes AMG, Porsche, and others as their factory fill oils, I don't think this is a real world issue.
It is also worth noting that generally, for low RPM, hi stress engines you want a slightly heavier oil, this is why the 5w-20 seems okay for the Honda's.
I have been shying away from the Mobil Xw-30 oils because they are formulated on the light side of 30 weight, almost being 20 weight. If you are looking for a Xw-30 weight, look at Redline, Amsoil (I never thought I would recommend Amsoil), or others. I truly believe for any climate that a Xw-50 oil is overkill for the landcruiser.
Oil Filters- I stick with the stock ones, and generally recommend people do the same. Mobil 1 filters seem to be the best alternative, stay away from Fram.
Oil Pressure- My gauge is at the lower hash line at idle, whether it is 60F or 105F. As long as you have about 7psi of oil pressure at idle you are fine. You should worry if you when you are at 1500 rpms if that gauge is still only at the lower hash line.
One of these days I will write up all this information (biases and all) for the forthcoming FAQ. Who should I send it to?
Cary
The EPA requirements are even more strict than what you were told. The EPA now requires that manufactures 1) fill the autos with the oil that they are tested with, 2) list the weight used as the recommended weight, and 3) sign a sworn statement (I don't know what the penalty is for violating it) that their dealers will use the weight of oil recommended.
After all of my research I have come to the conclusion that we should look at what the Europe/Austrailian recommendations are for oil weight when the same engine is used worldwide. I will note again that he Aus spec says you can use 10w-30, 15w-40, and 20w-50 up to 100F.
Mobil 0w-40 appears to be the best choice for worldwide use. My only potential concern (and this is the footnote to a footnote) is that it takes more viscosity modifiers to make a 0w-40 sythetic oil than a 5w-40 or 10w-30. It is the viscosity modifiers that break down over time and can leave sludge. Given that the 0w-40 is a high quality base stock, and this oil is used by Austin Martin, Mercedes AMG, Porsche, and others as their factory fill oils, I don't think this is a real world issue.
It is also worth noting that generally, for low RPM, hi stress engines you want a slightly heavier oil, this is why the 5w-20 seems okay for the Honda's.
I have been shying away from the Mobil Xw-30 oils because they are formulated on the light side of 30 weight, almost being 20 weight. If you are looking for a Xw-30 weight, look at Redline, Amsoil (I never thought I would recommend Amsoil), or others. I truly believe for any climate that a Xw-50 oil is overkill for the landcruiser.
Oil Filters- I stick with the stock ones, and generally recommend people do the same. Mobil 1 filters seem to be the best alternative, stay away from Fram.
Oil Pressure- My gauge is at the lower hash line at idle, whether it is 60F or 105F. As long as you have about 7psi of oil pressure at idle you are fine. You should worry if you when you are at 1500 rpms if that gauge is still only at the lower hash line.
One of these days I will write up all this information (biases and all) for the forthcoming FAQ. Who should I send it to?
Cary
I am sure I need a Xw-40 or maybe 50 with my milage. I use a quart about 2000 to 4000 mi that is with the tranny in normal. With one tank of gas and the tranny was in performance mode, with a heave foot and 85+ mph, the motor used a quart of M1 10w30. The oil could handed the high rpm. I don't know where it went, past the pistions, valves or sucked up the PCV.
kurt
kurt
Anybody know where to find the Mobile 1 0w40?
I went out searching yesterday and came back empty handed ???
I went out searching yesterday and came back empty handed ???
I couldn't wait till 0w-40 hit my market. I went with RotellaT 15w-40 dino oil. It can be had at any truck stop and in quarts at Walmart.
kurt
kurt
[glow=red,2,300]Woo-Hoo! My Friging avatar is finally working[/glow]
G
Guest
Guest
i am wondering too about the 0w40 Mobil 1---i went to walmart but all i could get at the 18.88/5qt price was 10w30.........
doug
doug
Jim_Chow
V8_Fan
I've never seen a Target or WalMart that carried M1 0w40. I've only seen 5w30, 10w30, and 15w40. My guess is that the 5 qt jugs are a WalMart exclusive, due to their buying power. The best price I've seen for 0w40 is $5/qt on sale, normally $6/qt. At $6/qt, you may as well run D1. I've seen the gallon jugs of Castrol Syntec at Walmart, but it's the US made stuff, not the highly-coveted German stuff that everyone except me seems to be able to get.
Jonathan_Ferguson
★ is in the wrong locale
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The 'R' means that it's a RV specification. In Australia there were 4 specication levels.
DX - Split Rims with 7.50 16, Vinyl Seat, Rubber Floor and Barn Doors.
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Geez... yuo guys are complaining about "worrisome lows" on the oil pressure? Try a reading of 0 (zero) at hot idle,.. which is right at about 200-250 rpm on my 1990 4Runner SR5/V6. Temp doesn't go up though and that's what I watch (I also check temps with an IR heat gun). I run 0-30 in mine.
Regards,
William Miranda
TLCA#7390
Regards,
William Miranda
TLCA#7390
It's true... Motor Oils targeted at Diesels ar a much higher "grade" oil and will usually exceed all Petrol based oils. What you worry about when switching to a synth IS the washing away of varnish. when the varnish goes away,.. so does the stuff that was keeping your engine from leaking in the first place. That's why people who change gave the reputation to Synth of "causing" leaks.
Regards,
William Miranda
TLCA#7390
[quote author=Jim_Chow link=board=2;threadid=1585;start=0#msg9607 date=1056470788]
I started using M1 delvac on a 17-yr old 22re w/ 145K miles...so far, so good (ie, no leaks, consumption is the same as w/ dino). I chose it over M1 since diesel oils are supposed to have more detergents, acid neutralizing compounds, and have greater soot capacity than their gas-only counterparts. My hope is it cleans out any varnish in the engine. The other reason was the 5w40 rating since I live in the S. desert where it's over 100F in the summer, but winter nights are near 32F. I found a cheaper and hopefully just as good alternative with Shell Rotella T synthetic, also a diesel engine oil rated at 5w40 (the other brand sold at Petro Lube, but WalMart had 'em for $13/gallon so I got it there!)
[/quote]
Regards,
William Miranda
TLCA#7390
[quote author=Jim_Chow link=board=2;threadid=1585;start=0#msg9607 date=1056470788]
I started using M1 delvac on a 17-yr old 22re w/ 145K miles...so far, so good (ie, no leaks, consumption is the same as w/ dino). I chose it over M1 since diesel oils are supposed to have more detergents, acid neutralizing compounds, and have greater soot capacity than their gas-only counterparts. My hope is it cleans out any varnish in the engine. The other reason was the 5w40 rating since I live in the S. desert where it's over 100F in the summer, but winter nights are near 32F. I found a cheaper and hopefully just as good alternative with Shell Rotella T synthetic, also a diesel engine oil rated at 5w40 (the other brand sold at Petro Lube, but WalMart had 'em for $13/gallon so I got it there!)
[/quote]
Everyone is talking about dino vs. synth, but what's the consensus on "blends" (the synthetic / dino mixes out there like "Mobil Drive Clean Blend" and "Quaker State 4x4 Synthetic Blend")? Cost-wise they are right between dino and synth, and I figure it is a step up for those of us that use 5k intervals. Opinions? Pros/Cons?
