Synthetic Oil

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Dan:
Between what I also see at idle pressure and the forecast of 106 deg temps in Vegas next week, I just filled the GWT with Mobile 1 15W-50 in prep for the trip. The oil cooler seemed to bring the idle pressure up a little, but without a real gauge, that could just be wishful thinking. Even with a dedicated oil cooler, I just couldn't stick with 10-30 when I think of all that desert, not to mention the famous SOCAL freeway traffic jams.

I briefly considered Mobile 1's 0W-40, because I really didn't want to go all the way to 50 weight, but since Toyota goes to 10-30 vice 5-30 for hot weather, I figured 0 was a non-starter, even when coupled with a 40 weight upper range.

I'll let you know if I can tell the difference in pressure readings or mileage. BigMac
 

cruiserdan

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Thanks Cap.

I'm 200 miles away from my next oil change. I think I'll try 15-40 for grins. if I don't like it , I'll drain and refill with 10-30


&nbsp:Did you do the knuckles yet?

Dan.
 
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I too will be interested in how "GWT" does with the 15w50.
White trucks ARE the coolest,eh? :D

also,are you doing any towing with your rig,BigMac?


thanks

doug
 
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Kurt,
The back of the M1 delvac jug says, "Synthetic, multigrade, super premium motor oil for most severe high performance diesel and gasoline engines in highway, off highway, farm fleets, and inboard marine applications." The dino version of Delvac might still be 15w40...not sure about that. The 5w40 is certainly a lot thicker & golden than watery 5w30 dino.
 
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Dan -
15W-40 would be my first choice if Mobile 1 was available in that grade - didn't have time to chase down the Delvac 15W-40 option, but it sounds perfect. No time to do the knuckles yet either, and the S/C is still touring the country courtsey of UPS - a long, sad, story. I'll get back to work in mid July.
BigMac
 
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Is anyone in the group running 15-40 or something else other than 5-30 or 10-30?
Will be doing Engine Oil and Oil Filter on the 1FZ-FE this Weekend, Castrol GTX 2 20W/50 will be going in. I will be making a trip to the Snow over the next Month or so.

Valvoline Super Diesel 15W/40 will go in the B, I'm scared of cooking the Oil(Would be more scared if it were Synthetic) and Diesels run cooler than Petrols.
 
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???
I too would be interested in hearing how Castol 20w/50 does. I used it in EVERY other vehicle (including 4 Toyotas) I have owned. With the year round heat here in SC Florida(@9 mos at 90 + deg) the 20w/50 seems to do well. I have a case in the garage but was scared off from changing to it from all the chatter here about staying with 10w/30. I have been really wanting to change to synthetic (Mobil 1, Amsoil, or Castrol syntec) but with my mileage (210,000 on a 3FE) I am scared that it will leak like a sieve. Any thoughts? If I change to synthetic and it does leak, am I just screwed or will the "seal swellers" eventually seal up the motor? Maybe just try the 20w/50 for a while and then change to synthetic? Just fishin' for advice or an excuse to go ahed and do it.
 
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I too would be interested in hearing how Castol 20w/50 does.
I get Oil Pressure whilst on the Starter Motor and the Engine starts first time every time. ::)
If you have ever had the pressure exceed 15psi on the Radiator Cap, You will know that the temperature is about 115 Celcius and at about this temperature Synthetic Oil Separtes.
 
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Doug -
I don't do any towing to speak of - I only drag a 23' Prowler trailer about a mile from a storage lot to a campground. I will pass on any impressions from using 15W-50 M1, but given the lack of precise instrumentation, "impressions" are about all I expect. BigMac
 

Brentbba

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Interesting thread and a fairly constant one on Porsche boards as well regarding weight. Porsche does, in fact, use Mobil 1 exclusively.

Due for an oil change myself. &nbsp:Dan, do Yota dealers typically stock Mobil 1 or is it something, we as customers, need to bring in, or perhaps a dealer by dealer thing???

I've always just used factory recommended dino after a horrible experience in 1981 with Mobil 1 in a Mazda 626 back in that era. Sounds like Mobil has addressed the issues I had back then. Beast does not use oil at this point, so what does extra expense of synthetic really buy outside of less frequent oil changes. Porshce factory recommendatins is every 15K with Mobil 1, so I don't see where every 5k or 7500 would be necessary in our LC's. I used to run 20W50 in an RX7 here in SoCal. Wonder if 10W40 or 50 may be the best bet here given that I do tow a 3500lb trailer monthly?
 
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Concerning the post of oil breaking up above 115 celcius,I believe you are incorrect. In the old days (note I am going to use English measurements), mineral oil worked best from 180-200 degrees and would start to lose its lubercation properties. As engine design has changed, the operating range of oils has moved up with most cars oil tems now in the 200-220 range. Most mineral oils will not start to break down until about 250 degrees now. Mobil one (according to mobil) does not break down until 400 degrees and has a flash point of 455 degrees in 10w/30. It is this much higher tempurature rating that has lead to sythetic being used in turbocharged vehicles for years where the oil also cools and lubercates the turbo bearings (which get well above 300 degrees).

As far as switching oil weights, I would be reluctant to do so. Engine clearences are getting tighter on new vehicles, and accordingly they use lighter oils. Also, oil doesn't sludge like it used to so oil passages can be made smaller and need the lighter oil to maintain oil flow. I would think that the manufacture might know what they are doing when they recommend a certain weight of oil. Even though CAFE standards play into it when they are trying to get the milage up with cars, it really doesn't factor into trucks like the LC (at least from what I can tell Toyota wasn't to worried about gas milage in the cruisers).

Finally, concerning Mobil Delvac 1, I would not run this in a gas motor. &nbsp:Diesel motors require different additive packs than Gas motors. Mobil on their website does not recommend Delvac 1 for gas powered cars. Stick with oil designed for the type of engine you have. For those who have diesels the Delvac is a great choice.

Off of my Soapbox now.

Cary
 
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cruiserdan

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Jim,

 CAFE is corporate average fuel economy. It relates to the fuel usage of the entire model line as a combined number.

Brent, intersting that you should ask. Toyota has JUST offered Mobile1 to the dealer body through the oils program starting July 1st.
Mobil is the vendor for Toyota's factory labeled oil in the US.(dino). Dealers will be able to get 5-30 and 10-30. The suggested selling price is $6.86 a quart.
 
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Dan,

How about tranny fluid ? I'd get in line the first day to get a complete flush!!! :D - Even if it's $6.86 / quart :eek: :eek: :eek:
 

cruiserdan

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No synthetic ATF at this time..........
 
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Cary, The AU 1FZFE calls for heavery oil in summer. I would assume that the AU and USA 1fz art the same motor. Rotella says it is for diesel and gas motors.

As for syn oil leaking. I have 220k mi and just started using syn.oil. Leaks CAN be fixed. I had too many leaks when I got it and it had dino oil in it. If you start to use/consume oil real bad,stop using it. My inlaw got a new/used 2001 Cady and went to Amsoil and it drank it. It is under warranty and GM says it is normal for their motors to use oil. My new 87HiLux with 22R was consuming Castrol oil after frist oil change, Toyota said using oil is not a problem. They said try a different brand of oil, Valvoline stopped the comsumption. I am using syn to clean out the motor so when it gets to 1,500,000 mi it will be clean when I need to ring and crank bearing it
8)
kurt
 

Brentbba

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$6.86 - Ouch! May have to see if I can bring my own 8 quarts!
 
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Kurt,

It is interesting that the Austrailian 1FZFE calls for a heavier oil, maybe Toyota was trying to boost their CAFE with the older LC's. What weight oil does the AU manual call for with the gas engines and for what tempurature span.

Thanks,

Cary
 

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