Stock value: Aluminum vs. OEM Radiator (1 Viewer)

[Matt1260]

Just wondering as I'm restoring this 74 if putting a new aluminum radiator in ($200) vs re-coring the OEM one ($400) would have a negative effect on the value?

 

[ginmtb]

Buy the OEM new from either Beno or other discount sources you should be able to get it for under $300 shipped. I got mine for $295 and it included the OEM cap and extended petcock.

 

[Matt1260]

where is this?

 

[ginmtb]

Search "Toyota 16400-49356" and you will get results. Just find the closest dealer that sells parts online and that should help with shipping.

 

[emac]

Got my OEM rad from @beno last year. It even comes with a new cap!

 

[Downey]

With the stock 6 cylinder you really don't need an aluminum radiator:
(1) Copper radiators help keep cooler temps down (i.e. 210 down to 190).
(2) Aluminum radiators help keep hotter temps down (i.e 240 down to 210).

 

[Matt1260]

excellent.

 

[tls3601]

Yes go the OEM 4 core, the originals were 3

 

[Tools R Us]

With the stock 6 cylinder you really don't need an aluminum radiator:
(1) Copper radiators help keep cooler temps down (i.e. 210 down to 190).
(2) Aluminum radiators help keep hotter temps down (i.e 240 down to 210).

What?

 

[Downey]

What?

Information from a sales rep who use to import both copper and aluminum cores for the USA radiator builders, plus he didn't have an ax to grind either way.

 

[Matt1260]

didn't know they made OEM 4 core...

 

[SW20]

Yes go the OEM 4 core, the originals were 3

Is there a different part number for a 4 core?

 

[ginmtb]

I believe the new ones are 4 core. Old oem was 3 core. Hence the suggestion to buy new vs. re-core/refurb the old one.

 

[71FFJ40]

Anyone know of a source for 4 core OEM? The only 4 core copper I could find a couple years back was aftermarket made to OEM specs don't even remeber where I got it.

 

[Living in the Past]

Interesting most my radiators are four core. Bought my first FJ40 in 74 which still had its original four core radiator. Being a original AZ vehicle it did not have a rear heater but larger four core radiator.

 

[Tools R Us]

With the stock 6 cylinder you really don't need an aluminum radiator:
(1) Copper radiators help keep cooler temps down (i.e. 210 down to 190).
(2) Aluminum radiators help keep hotter temps down (i.e 240 down to 210).

Information from a sales rep who use to import both copper and aluminum cores for the USA radiator builders, plus he didn't have an ax to grind either way.

Have sharpened axes, not sure what it has to do...

For the radiator argument, more efficient cools better, has more capacity, running 190F or 240F makes no difference.

Copper has better heat transfer, end of advantage.

Aluminum has manufacturing advantages, allowing for more efficient designs to be made.

The most efficient radiator is single core with a large surface area. Due to fitment, this often isn't possible, so cores are stacked, but each core is progressively less efficient than the one in front.

Copper tubes are commonly ~3/8" deep, aluminum is commonly made several times that, tube and fin spacing is commonly significantly tighter. This adds up to greater surface area, a two core aluminum being more efficient, having more cooling capacity than a four core copper.

Coolants now days are fully biased to aluminum, with little to no regard to copper, why would they almost everyone one runs aluminum. So copper radiators are not well protected, especially the solder, corrosion blooms and being eaten away, shortening life.

Now days my first choice, when available, is aluminum/plastic, second is full aluminum. The only way I would run copper would be a classic show car, if points or $$$ are going to be lost.

 

[sggoat]

Have sharpened axes, not sure what it has to do...

For the radiator argument, more efficient cools better, has more capacity, running 190F or 240F makes no difference.

Copper has better heat transfer, end of advantage.

Aluminum has manufacturing advantages, allowing for more efficient designs to be made.

The most efficient radiator is single core with a large surface area. Due to fitment, this often isn't possible, so cores are stacked, but each core is progressively less efficient than the one in front.

Copper tubes are commonly ~3/8" deep, aluminum is commonly made several times that, tube and fin spacing is commonly significantly tighter. This adds up to greater surface area, a two core aluminum being more efficient, having more cooling capacity than a four core copper.

Coolants now days are fully biased to aluminum, with little to no regard to copper, why would they almost everyone one runs aluminum. So copper radiators are not well protected, especially the solder, corrosion blooms and being eaten away, shortening life.

Now days my first choice, when available, is aluminum/plastic, second is full aluminum. The only way I would run copper would be a classic show car, if points or $$$ are going to be lost.

I did not see any comments here on the load of Al crud that gets transported into the iron engine from that alum rad. Copper tends not to do that at all, unless it is in a 600 psi/800 deg F environment. Al will do it at ambient temps.

 

[Tools R Us]

I did not see any comments here on the load of Al crud that gets transported into the iron engine from that alum rad. Copper tends not to do that at all, unless it is in a 600 psi/800 deg F environment. Al will do it at ambient temps.

I was commenting on things that are relevant to the conversation, not sure what you are trying to say?

 

[tls3601]

@SW20 I can look up the part number for you. I definately think it is the way to go. PM me a reminder

 

[SW20]

@SW20 I can look up the part number for you. I definately think it is the way to go. PM me a reminder

@tls3601 I would greatly appreciate that very much!