Stock Land Cruiser PTO shaft information needed.

[love2fly]

scrapdaddy , you probably noticed it may resembles the setup you have on your 55 but without the push button lever. I was going to put the shifter lever in the floor straight up and down when in neutral but when sitting in the RH drivers set it seemed to be much easier to pull back than push to engage the PTO, other than that I am off to some drive train shops Monday along with John Deere to start the PTO winch driveline parts hunt.

Thanks for the kind words.

 

[jmphilion]

The cover of the three speed doesn't match, but my h41 has the tapped hole on top. Will check later on my h42.

Here are the mesurements for the winch spacers if needed. Note that one side is flat and the other angled.

I placed it where it should be and with the angled side down to compensate for the crease in the frame.

J

 

[love2fly]

Those are the stock ones from the 1980 are they all the same? Nice to see some stock ones with the measurements. Thanks, will be working that issue on the winch in a few days.
Living in the past, would you post the or check the frame mounting brackets you have with my given frame hole measurements for each one if you would.
I am trying to determine if I need to go both supports or just one on the shaft run. I am rigging up a mock shaft (wood broom handles) to get a feel of the leanth and support. A lot of the newer (CV) shaft supports come in many types so its a real challenge there.
Also you said around 1" on the shafts diameter? I found plenty of cold roll 1" at the local steel sales. Most will be determined of the yoke size I need to find. If I find a bolt on yoke that comes from the PTO G/B with female splines that would make everything in the center of the shaft run easier.
Thanks guys

 

[jmphilion]

Yes these are from my 1980 pre 8/80 and also fit perfect on my 1982.

For shafts, some guy a while ago suggested square shafts might be a way to go.

 

[jmphilion]

Oh and yes Living in the past, i say transmission or tranny, i say transfer case and i say gearbox, PTO box for the PTO yes.

Problem is, i have two PTO boxes from pre 8/80 style. I dont have a PTO box for a split transfer case, the one i would need to fit it on my BJ42 of 1982. So i kept an old 4 speed assembly (transmission, transfer case and gear box ) of the 1980 Bj40 (pre 8/80), to replace my more recent one.

The three speed is just another assembly.

 

[love2fly]

Okay since I do not have A original 10 spline Toyota PTO shaft to measure and only have the 10 spline slip yoke, would someone who has a 10 spline shaft handy be willing to check my measurement against a PTO shaft.
I believe the shaft maybe a 1 1/32 instead of a 1" OD than I originally thought.
I was told that a man in town has a milling machine who cuts PTO shafts for farm equipment, and was going to stop by and see if ha can cut some shafts or at least one when I and ready.

Thanks

 

[sadam_husain]

Unless I pull a good shaft out of one of my trucks I've only got some old worn pieces to measure, although I measured it with a set of Vernier callipers you can see there's a fair bit of rust and wear on that spline. We're metric here and Mr Toyota also manufactures in metric so I've listed everything in metric, it looks a very close match to your 10 spline diagram above. Your machinist should be able to measure and cut a shaft to match the 10 spline slip yoke you've already got

That winch is looking close to being finished now nice work on fabricating up the lever linkage

 

[love2fly]

Hey thanks for that, I know that the machinist usually have a better set of calipers and eye with this type of thing but just wanted to get in the ballpark. Mainly I want to get to the correct OD size cold roll round stock as I can. I plan on seeing this guy in a few days.
I am right now looking at the winch yoke shaft end being done with what I have but hopefully the PTO G/B end shaft also if I can find an original bolt on yoke with the slip shaft for the 10 spline. If I can find a good used one or one on line the rest is a cake walk.
If not I will have to do a lot of leg work for the yoke spline end as the 10 spline seems to be one of the hardest ones to find.

https://www.google.com/search?q=pto...UCoSCbFxn8mzG4t2EbIQ1OdwbvZG&q=pto yoke parts

Did get the levels done for the winch rear section mount, made them out of the old rollers that were rust solid, might as well use some of them.
Thanks again for the info. Need to go pay for all this now.
Cheers

 

[Living in the Past]

Here is the 84 HJ47 I got the PTO and drivelines from. It clearly was never going back on the road.

He is the frame where the left side L bracket for the rear engine/T/T crossmember attached. Three of the four fixed nuts were loose and spinning which made for fun removing the bolts with a cordless drill to get the L bracket for my FJ45.

Picture of the opening for the PTO shifter. Floor was pretty mangled in the area. I am just glad the only damage a bend shifter/shifter boot and bend brackets for the pillow block bearings. PTO and PTO shafts are fine.

I checked my brackets and while bend all seem close to your measurements except the width of the front bracket that is closer to 4 3/4" not 5 3/4". Haven't been to the HJ47 in months and probably been crushed by now. Even if it was there I wouldn't trust the measurement between the two brackets. My 82 frame is earlier than 10/82 and 82 model without the fixed nuts for the second bracket. The holes for the front bracket and my front bracket matched those holes. I cleaned the holes in the frame and bolt after getting the bracket just to be sure.

Edit: I bolted the brackets on to the driveline and straightened them so they were close to how they mounted to the frame. It is close to the 22 1/2".

On the front bracket I would build it so the pillow block bearing is point right at the opening in the front frame member. U joint on the other side. The back pillow block bearing pointing directly at the U joint on the front. The back shaft has U joints on both ends with a slip joint on the back. The back shaft is the most for giving. The front second. It's the middle shaft has not slip joints so length and angle of the pillow block is important.

Just wish there was more members around the world who have this setup and post up. Still unsure of the fine splines at the back. I could see the shaft being made from a Birfield but the collar I'm not sure where it would have come from.

 

[love2fly]

living in the past, very cool information. Boy that picture, had to hurt.
Quick story, last week a young man of the age of 17 while dad was out of town on business decided to take dads 1968 Ford bronco half cab out on a night adventure, of course without mom or dad's knowledge. Got a call of a one car rollover around 7 pm with no injuries, got to the scene and what looked to be at one time one of the nicest little broncos dad could build looked just about what your pictures shows. One day later I was told that someone had to go to the home of the young man due to a disturbance, yes dad was home and yes he was a little pissed. Never leave your keys were the kids can find them.

Edit: I bolted the brackets on to the driveline and straightened them so they were close to how they mounted to the frame. It is close to the 22 1/2".

On the front bracket I would build it so the pillow block bearing is point right at the opening in the front frame member. U joint on the other side. The back pillow block bearing pointing directly at the U joint on the front. The back shaft has U joints on both ends with a slip joint on the back. The back shaft is the most for giving. The front second. It's the middle shaft has not slip joints so length and angle of the pillow block is important.

Okay, From what you have measured and confirmed and what I have measured I am sure that a two pillow block construction for the D/L will be appropriate for this build. I could of been off on the front measurements as I was tiring to measure with out getting on the ground. I have found plenty of pillow blocks to use and have even found a gent that can cut shafts, but he is so book up it will be a month or two. As mentioned the slip yoke with the four bolt holes is holing me up from doing any measurements. With the dimensions at 2 1/8 x 2 1/8 ( center of hole to hole) and a 3" hole circular
from all holes it is one tough item to find. Most PTO part houses do not stock this small anymore and that is to include my best bet of John Deere.
All the stuff on line is so close but not usable from what I have found so far but I have not given up yet.
It would be nice if someone would post up some picture of this set up so other can benefit when repairing or building. Maybe someone will.

A , Birfield never thought about that, that's two big??

Thank you for the information, truly all of this is a large help.

 

[Living in the Past]

I know of a similar case involving a sixteen year old taking dads 4X4 (FJ40 in this case) except dad was grieving the death of his son the next day. My kids are all in their thirties know but they never had excess to my cruisers.

Thinking about it I doubt a Birfield was used as they have grooves for C clips. Thought being from a long splined axle for the E-locker but believe those are thirty spline not twenty-seven. Still haven't a clue was could have been used for the female end. The collar and shaft U jpint ends both have the TEQ. Just wish there were more if these floating around so I would know for sure if my was rebuilt or stock.

I would use something the same diameter as the holes in the front frame member. Without the bumper or winch installed I would slip that thru the holes to figure where the pillow block bearing should be mounted. The front bracket does not come straight off the frame but angles to the back so the bearing is pointed towards the opening in the front frame member. The measurement from the middle of the bearing to the end of the shaft is about twelve inches. The one piece you have of the driveline has the early long spline collar. Later ones are a fraction of the length of the later ones. If you can find a shaft that fits the collar you could trim it down and use the piece you cut off to weld to make a another end. It is funny how the back of my is fine splined but has the longer collar. The shaft instead of having a short splined section then tampering to a smaller shaft has a long spline with no tampering to a smaller size. Toyota changed from coarse to fine spline in the axles, tailshaft in the transmissions, hubs, in the transfer cases. Just seemed natural they would do that on the PTO drivelines. 10/82 the rear piece changed but front shaft stayed the same. Would have made sense that Toyota would have updated since it was a new design the on the back. Depending on the stock ply on hand continue to use the front shaft up. It is also possible Toyota was already in the design stages for the 70 series and knew the 40 series would be done with production of 40 series in Japan within a couple of years. The 83 models changes were probably in the works even earlier. It does surprise me the refinement Toyota did to the 40 series in the last few years. But if Toyota continued using the coarse spline on later PTO drivelines it remains a mystery what I have. What ever it is I'm just glad to have it.

 

[love2fly]

I hear you, I don't blame the folks for keeping the parts as I am learning a lot about the PTO bolt by bolt and how hard they are to find. Now if the folks have no use for the PTO parts please put them out for folks like me.......Ha!
I did some research on the possibilities that Toyota used a source like Splicer to build the part but that is more than I can handle, they most likely had them made locally.
I kind of enjoy the hunt it therapy, okay it's not I just have to think that to keep on going.
I do have a few possibilities on the yokes that maybe the correct size Toyota use and if I am right would look no different from the stock. I have an email out and awaiting a reply.
If I can get all the parts and pieces all set and logged, it will be good for the next guy or gal doing the same.
Off to work.
Thanks

 

[peteinjp]

Mog395 is the part number for late model u-joints available at Summit etc.

Pete

 

[love2fly]

Thanks Pete, you wouldn't have a good aftermarket part number for the 4 bolt Flange Yoke that fits the flange on the PTO gear box shaft?
The 3" round diameter of the flange yoke is nearly impossible to find. Very small. Have a few leads but so far, nothing solid. Once I find the yoke I can work from the company's parts that fit there parts as U joints and slip yokes and end yokes and so on. I am sure the spines will have to change along with shaft size but that's part of the game.
The picture is of the yoke on the gear box. Measurements are not a 100% but dam close. "A" is more like 3" (75mm).
Just got back from a tractor graveyard salvage yard of parts and not one thing would work from the old PTO equipment.
Best lead so far.
http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/PTI-1402-45.html


Thanks again Pete

 

[sadam_husain]

It is possible to find other yokes that will bolt straight up to the Toyota PTO flange, I cant give you any part numbers or leads but I used to have a non Toyota yoke bolted onto my FJ40 PTO, I don't know what sort of spline count and slip joint it had as it had been modified with a Nissan Patrol stub shaft welded into the end of it to match the Nissan shafts that truck uses, I had a new piece made up out of a stock Toyota Yoke as the U/J was failing badly and although I could get a replacement U/J it was held in by staking rather than circlips so its now part of my spare parts supplies for comps and I'm now running a Toyota yoke with standard easily an serviceable U/J with circlips and a Nissan stub welded into the end

Stock Toyota Yoke,
note its off my FJ75 with all stock PTO setup and not the modified setup on my FJ40 above

 

[sadam_husain]

other options are to make up an adaptor plate to bolt a non stock yoke to the PTO flange or get the holes welded up and re-drilled to fit a non stock yoke onto the flange

 

[love2fly]

How are you, yeah to kick this build of the drive shaft for the PTO has taken a bit of a slow start. New aftermarket Toyota yokes which are in metric design are out there just going to take a bit of time. Harday Spicer was a good place to look and a few others. I am hoping that Pete will chime back with some possible good news as his attar shows Japan but we will see.
As said if I can fine a good source for the flange yoke coming off your PTO gear box as seen in your photo I can build using the rest of the matching parts the manufacturer may have to offer.
Just finding a 3" (75mm) bolt circle diameter flange with a 41.91mm pilot center male ring may be a bit but it will get done. May have to modify as you said.
Take care

 

[love2fly]

I had thought of that also. I am still looking for the flange yokes that have blanks (no drilled holes), that would be the best.

 

[peteinjp]

Unfortunately I do not know of that. I would bet that Japanes tractors and such might use the same pattern for the yokes and splines. You might try to find a dealer and ask if they have seen anything like it.

Pete

 

[peteinjp]

Also about the spacers for the winch... There are 2 more that go inside the frame that make a total of 4. They keep the nut heads clamping at 90deg. They are smaller than the ones shown above by about half.

Pete