spongy mushy brakes

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The other bleader.

The load valve is lokated above the rear diff on the RH side bolted to the inside of the chassis. It has a small arm that goes from the valve to the diff housing. The bleader faces the back of the car . Cheers.
 
Blder screw

This is the one on the back of the load valve above the RH side of the rear diff. Photo taken from rear looking to frount. Not much room to fit camera. Sorry for tacking so long.
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onesprung60 said:
I would love to hear your explanation as to why you think this is true.

The 100 series brakes, although unique and different from a 30 year old domestic truck, still has two separate hydraulic brake circuits and an internally separated reservoir to deal with a leak in one hose or line.
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Wrong. On the 100, at least my '99, you lose one wheel of brake you lose them all. No seperation in my MC.
 
Thanks for posting that bleeding technique. I can definitely verify spresso's claim. Coming down a long steep mountain descent I lost all of my brakes at the same time. Luckily these trucks come with a good E brake.
 
uzj100 brake problem

got problems with my brakes spongy pedal bleed all the wheels checked all the pads. i found out that my rear left brakes is not holding much pressure compared to the other 3 i let the car roll and slam the brakes and the rear left is late but holds. not as strong as the other 3 any idea whats going on? is suspect the master cylinder what you think
 
In that case it could be a master cylinder, before 2000 they had a common line to rear.
You may want to rule out damage to steel line and hoses as there are two hoses per rear line.
The master cylinder rebuild kit would not fix this symptom, so you are looking at $1500 in parts.
 
Skidoo said:
In that case it could be a master cylinder, before 2000 they had a common line to rear.
You may want to rule out damage to steel line and hoses as there are two hoses per rear line.
The master cylinder rebuild kit would not fix this symptom, so you are looking at $1500 in parts.
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what will fix this prob? didnt get your point
 
If you have checked that it is not the caliper piston or the line from master cylinder to caliper is not dented or hose bad, that leaves master cyl as the problem. You would need at least a Master Cyl Sub Assy, but most go for Booster/Master Cyl Assy, since if you need a Booster down the road they cost quite a bit more separately. BTW there are two versions of these parts depending on what month your cruiser was built in 2000.
Am I sure this is what you need, nope, as I don't know how well you have checked components above.
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Check the metal lines coming from the master cylinder to the brakes, make sure there is no damage or kinks.
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will check on the lines thanks trunk havnt thought of that

Skidoo said:
If you have checked that it is not the caliper piston or the line from master cylinder to caliper is not dented or hose bad, that leaves master cyl as the problem. You would need at least a Master Cyl Sub Assy, but most go for Booster/Master Cyl Assy, since if you need a Booster down the road they cost quite a bit more separately. BTW there are two versions of these parts depending on what month your cruiser was built in 2000.
Am I sure this is what you need, nope, as I don't know how well you have checked components above.
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ive read some article regarding master cylinder probs my symptoms leads me to a faulty master cylinder that has an internal leak first step low 2nd step is firm and 1 or 2 wheels wont hold as firm as the others but i dont know still waitng for the master cylinder rebuild kit i'll gamble with $50 than $1500?:idea:
 
Good luck, hope that works for you. The individual modulation of pressure to each brake comes after the master cylinder. There are 12 solenoid controlled valves, 3 for each brake in the master cylinder sub assy, so you will want to be careful not to get dirt into any of the ports when you remove the piston for rebuild.

PS If both rear brakes are not holding would be more likely rebuild kit would fix, only one less likely.
 
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Skidoo said:
Good luck, hope that works for you. The individual modulation of pressure to each brake comes after the master cylinder. There are 12 solenoid controlled valves, 3 for each brake in the master cylinder sub assy, so you will want to be careful not to get dirt into any of the ports when you remove the piston for rebuild.

PS If both rear brakes are not holding would be more likely rebuild kit would fix, only one less likely.
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thanks skidoo! btw do you have an exploded view of the 12 solenoid where is it located? and where is the master cylinder sub assy? any idea what is causing the low pedal position and the if only one not holding?
 
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