spongy mushy brakes
- Thread starter vxlc80
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Others will chime in but a couple of thoughts:
- Did you just do work on the system and then get the spongy pedal, or did it appear all on its own?
- How are you bleeding? There are several methods (pressure, gravity, pumping the pedal) and then also the proper bleed order.
- Still air in the system
- Air in the master cylinder
- Bad brake line that is swelling
- Did you just do work on the system and then get the spongy pedal, or did it appear all on its own?
- How are you bleeding? There are several methods (pressure, gravity, pumping the pedal) and then also the proper bleed order.
- Still air in the system
- Air in the master cylinder
- Bad brake line that is swelling
I have this same problem. It was that way when i bought it 3 months ago. I never noticed it when i bought it, and I was wondering what my next step would be. But i hear that it is a common problem with 100 series.
Mine is a 1999 100 with 119,000 miles on the clock...
Mine is a 1999 100 with 119,000 miles on the clock...
Have you inspected all the lines when under pressure ? you could have a blistered line that is only visible under pressure and doesn't leak.
Are your brake pads a performance type that really only work well when hot? Switching to OEM might help.
Are your brake pads a performance type that really only work well when hot? Switching to OEM might help.
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Mine has had the firmer 2nd pedal stroke since I acquired it over 5-years and 100,000+ miles ago. I have not taken it in to Toyota to have the ABS circuit nor master circuit bled. But it is a somewhat common complaint on 100's; but its not "right" that's for sure.
I've bled them each year and also had my favorite shop mechanic that takes care of the stuff I can't/won't with the same results...so I am confident its beyond normal bleeding procedure.
One of these days I'll get the courage up to take it in to the local dealer and try to figure out what the real problem is. Hopefully they won't tell me I need a new electro-hydraulic booster/master cylinder
While on the subject of 100 Series brakes I was remiss to learn, the hard way I might add, no duplicate/2nd brake circuit like my GM pick ups had some 30-years ago. If you lose one brake line/cylinder you lose all 4 brakes. Not sure how, in this day and age of government safety regs how Toyota could even sell something set up like this without a failsafe design.
I've bled them each year and also had my favorite shop mechanic that takes care of the stuff I can't/won't with the same results...so I am confident its beyond normal bleeding procedure.
One of these days I'll get the courage up to take it in to the local dealer and try to figure out what the real problem is. Hopefully they won't tell me I need a new electro-hydraulic booster/master cylinder
While on the subject of 100 Series brakes I was remiss to learn, the hard way I might add, no duplicate/2nd brake circuit like my GM pick ups had some 30-years ago. If you lose one brake line/cylinder you lose all 4 brakes. Not sure how, in this day and age of government safety regs how Toyota could even sell something set up like this without a failsafe design.
Had the same problem with my 99 and 04. Tried all the usual stuff, nothing worked. The I changed over to a SS brake line set and it stops like sports car.
Also can adjust the brake pedal height with a 14 mm wrench at the base of the brake.
Also can adjust the brake pedal height with a 14 mm wrench at the base of the brake.
The aussie 100s have a bleder under the back on the load valve, did you bleed that one.
More description or a picture to help locate this bleeder would be great.
The Goodridge G-Stop kits look good.
# 21126 no VSC - 5 lines
# 21127 w/ VSC - 6 lines
# 2-21126 no VSC extended 2"
# 2-21127 w/ VSC extended 2"
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I would love to hear your explanation as to why you think this is true.
The 100 series brakes, although unique and different from a 30 year old domestic truck, still has two separate hydraulic brake circuits and an internally separated reservoir to deal with a leak in one hose or line.
I am running the Goodridge 2-21127 w/ VSC extended 2".
Are you happy with those lines? When I got mine early last year, they fit, but fronts not as well as they should. Sent them back and had them change fitting on one end.
Moved photos to different thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/175109-stainless-brake-hoses-2.html#post5658410
Are you happy with those lines? When I got mine early last year, they fit, but fronts not as well as they should. Sent them back and had them change fitting on one end.
Moved photos to different thread
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/175109-stainless-brake-hoses-2.html#post5658410
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Oh, much better! But was the front 2" longer because of their funky routing? I mean, after you sent it back and redone, is it any longer?
Also, would like to know if anybody has ordered the Goodridge lines since and gotten Skidoo's "revised" version or the old version.
Also, would like to know if anybody has ordered the Goodridge lines since and gotten Skidoo's "revised" version or the old version.
It was only about an inch longer after the fitting change as they cut it off and putt on new fitting.
I just did a 4 wheel brake job on my recently purchased 1998. My wife and I both felt the pedal feel was to spongy.
Here is how I improved it.
I noticed that the caliper slides and pins and the flate surfaces that the pads glide on with every brake pedal application, were coated in rust brake dust and general grime.
If the pads can not glide easily it can jam during its movemeant to apply clamping force to the rotor. So at times some the 8 brake pads required to stop the Cruiser were stuck flexing in place but not putting the squeeze to the rotors.
I used stay lube synthetic graese to lube all these areas after a throught cleaning with sand paper.
I also bled the system and flushed it with 1/2 gallon of DOT 3 brake fluid.
Here a great way to bleed these 100 Cruisers
1. These hydraulic booster will turn on its pump whenever there is a pressure drop sensed in the accumulator (like when a bleeder is opened).
So have the key on and engine off. Depress the brake pedal with a brake holding tool, a metal rod or heck even a piece of lumber. All we want to do here is get the brake pedal held in a down position.
2. With an acrylic hose 2-3 ft long (like the ones used for aquarium bubble pumps) Push the hose on to the caliper bleeder that is furthest away from the
master cylinder.
Right rear, in other words.
3. Put the other end of a hose in a clear plastic bottle ( I used an old gatorade Bottle) Open the bleeder and let the pump flow out old fluid and air bubble for 10-15 seconds then close the bleeder. This is a great method because the hose is submerged in the fluid in the bottle and so bubbles come out and no air can go backwards up the tube.
A chime sound may be heard after several seconds coming from your dash board. This is a warning to let the pump cool. Heed this warning if the chime sound and stop bleeding for a minute or 2.
4. Next check the resevior and add more clean fluid. NEVER LET THE RESEVIOR GO EMPTY
Now remove and reapply the brake holding tool mentioned above.
5. If the fluid ran clear indicating the fresh fluid made its way all the way to the right rear, you may now go to the left rear. If not repeat at the right rear wheel.
At this point repeat all prior steps for the remaining wheels.
Another thing to consider for spongy feel, though it is rare, is sloppy front wheel bearings. if they have too much play the caliper pistons are pushed into their bore every time the brake pedal is released. So when the brake pedal is applied the piston has to move further to correct the rotor position and make it verticle again. The intitial movement to straighten up the rotor causes the stoke of the pedal to be greater than usual. Weird one HuH?
So in short I had tha same spongey low pedal sensation and was able to fix it with cleaning and lubricating all my moving caliper / pad parts, a flush/ bleeding and I did repack the front wheel bearings , but mine did not have excessive play.
I am very pleased with the pedal feel now and most inportantly, SO IS MY WIFE!!!!
I like the stainless steel braided line ideas you guys have. That makes sense. I will have to do those. It will only get better.
Here is how I improved it.
I noticed that the caliper slides and pins and the flate surfaces that the pads glide on with every brake pedal application, were coated in rust brake dust and general grime.
If the pads can not glide easily it can jam during its movemeant to apply clamping force to the rotor. So at times some the 8 brake pads required to stop the Cruiser were stuck flexing in place but not putting the squeeze to the rotors.
I used stay lube synthetic graese to lube all these areas after a throught cleaning with sand paper.
I also bled the system and flushed it with 1/2 gallon of DOT 3 brake fluid.
Here a great way to bleed these 100 Cruisers
1. These hydraulic booster will turn on its pump whenever there is a pressure drop sensed in the accumulator (like when a bleeder is opened).
So have the key on and engine off. Depress the brake pedal with a brake holding tool, a metal rod or heck even a piece of lumber. All we want to do here is get the brake pedal held in a down position.
2. With an acrylic hose 2-3 ft long (like the ones used for aquarium bubble pumps) Push the hose on to the caliper bleeder that is furthest away from the
master cylinder.
Right rear, in other words.
3. Put the other end of a hose in a clear plastic bottle ( I used an old gatorade Bottle) Open the bleeder and let the pump flow out old fluid and air bubble for 10-15 seconds then close the bleeder. This is a great method because the hose is submerged in the fluid in the bottle and so bubbles come out and no air can go backwards up the tube.
A chime sound may be heard after several seconds coming from your dash board. This is a warning to let the pump cool. Heed this warning if the chime sound and stop bleeding for a minute or 2.
4. Next check the resevior and add more clean fluid. NEVER LET THE RESEVIOR GO EMPTY
Now remove and reapply the brake holding tool mentioned above.
5. If the fluid ran clear indicating the fresh fluid made its way all the way to the right rear, you may now go to the left rear. If not repeat at the right rear wheel.
At this point repeat all prior steps for the remaining wheels.
Another thing to consider for spongy feel, though it is rare, is sloppy front wheel bearings. if they have too much play the caliper pistons are pushed into their bore every time the brake pedal is released. So when the brake pedal is applied the piston has to move further to correct the rotor position and make it verticle again. The intitial movement to straighten up the rotor causes the stoke of the pedal to be greater than usual. Weird one HuH?
So in short I had tha same spongey low pedal sensation and was able to fix it with cleaning and lubricating all my moving caliper / pad parts, a flush/ bleeding and I did repack the front wheel bearings , but mine did not have excessive play.
I am very pleased with the pedal feel now and most inportantly, SO IS MY WIFE!!!!
I like the stainless steel braided line ideas you guys have. That makes sense. I will have to do those. It will only get better.