Build SpaceG The FJ60

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If you want to protect the left over connectors, you can wrap them in tape. I think most just leave them dangling.

The Decel fuel-cut switch (the thing that cracked rubber cover goes over) is good to keep, but not necessary (again, depends on whether you're going to keep the Emissions computer and if it's even working). Toyota didn't use it on earlier 2F engines and it's not used on non-USA 2Fs. A properly tuned engine, with the proper fuel mix shouldn't backfire.

That Decel cut switch works when you let your foot off the gas at speed, and it activates the ICS (fuel cut solenoid). It's controlled by the Emissions computer. It's supposed to help prevent backfiring when a momentary high-vacuum situation sends a rich mix down the tailpipe. If you don't have a CAT, there's nothing to ignite that unburned gas.
Well, I’ll be checking the Emissions CPU to see if it works. Should be behind that kick panel on the driver side IIRC. If it’s not, that’ll determine what I do with it.
 
Progress. 😂

IMG_0652.webp
 
I'll buy that if you're willing to ship. 😁
I was just about to type "I'll take it"! haha

Mine BZ rebuilt one grenaded itself earlier this year and I'm gonna need one for my smog test next August. I guess I should send the one I have to BZ again. Sigh...
 
I was just about to type "I'll take it"! haha

Mine BZ rebuilt one grenaded itself earlier this year and I'm gonna need one for my smog test next August. I guess I should send the one I have to BZ again. Sigh...
If you can intercept UPS between today and Friday (estimated delivery day), maybe you can convince em to hand it over. 🤣
 
If you can intercept UPS between today and Friday (estimated delivery day), maybe you can convince em to hand it over. 🤣
It's all good!
 
I've been doing some looking around to see if I can find a relevant thread about the Emissions CPU as far as determining whether it works or not.
Any suggestions are welcome.
 
There's no way that I know of to test the ECU on the vehicle other than testing the individual emissions systems, but kind of moot since you removed them. But, if your ICS system was working before (truck would idle) then that's the only part you'll have to worry about for the bits of the system you want to keep. Not sure if this is helpful or not. Can explain further tomorrow, if you need it.
 
There's no way that I know of to test the ECU on the vehicle other than testing the individual emissions systems, but kind of moot since you removed them. But, if your ICS system was working before (truck would idle) then that's the only part you'll have to worry about for the bits of the system you want to keep. Not sure if this is helpful or not. Can explain further tomorrow, if you need it.
You bring up a good point about the idling of the truck. If you remember "way back", I had this problem where it'd idle, the only "catch" was that the Choke had to be engaged/pulled. It was even like that just to get it to start, even. I'd like to believe that's an issue that will be rectified since I'm on the pathway of getting the desmog completed, get my carb/dizzy back from Jim, get the intake repaired/machined, etc.

However, if I don't need to really worry about the ECU "in the long run", I guess I may not need to worry then.
 
Well, if you had a problem with the truck idling before, without the choke pulled, that's a good sign either the ICS or, more likely, the ECU was malfunctioning. Honestly, to simplify things, you're probably better off just deleting the ECU and the all the other smog bits and running it that way, particularly if you're not going to have a CAT conv. Jim C will ground the ICS on the carb you're having rebuilt, if you want to go that way. Let him know.

However, @Engineer8000 may have a remaining tested/repaired ECU should you want to keep it and the 'Deceleration switch' and circuit.
 
Well, if you had a problem with the truck idling before, without the choke pulled, that's a good sign either the ICS or, more likely, the ECU was malfunctioning. Honestly, to simplify things, you're probably better off just deleting the ECU and the all the other smog bits and running it that way, particularly if you're not going to have a CAT conv. Jim C will ground the ICS on the carb you're having rebuilt, if you want to go that way. Let him know.

However, @Engineer8000 may have a remaining tested/repaired ECU should you want to keep it and the 'Deceleration switch' and circuit.
If I remember correctly, the ICS is that green plug that’s on the carb that should make a *click* when you turn the key (truck off), and plug it up. That definitely works, @CruiserTrash helped out with that one, but correct me if I’m wrong(?) So MY “edumacated” guess 🤣 is that the ECU is probably shot.

& If that is the case, I’ll give Jim a call and let him know.
 
Yes, ICS (Idle Control Solenoid or Fuel Cut Solenoid as some call it) is the component with the green plug. When the ECU is removed, the WHITE wire off of it needs to be grounded to the carb body for it to function - Just like on the earlier FJ40s w/ 2F engine.
 
Yes, ICS (Idle Control Solenoid or Fuel Cut Solenoid as some call it) is the component with the green plug. When the ECU is removed, the WHITE wire off of it needs to be grounded to the carb body for it to function - Just like on the earlier FJ40s w/ 2F engine.
Left Jim a voicemail; he may/may not get back to me, but I'll call him again if I don't hear back in a day or two :D
 
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