South's FJ40 "Rebuild"

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Yea looking at it again brakes had more protection the other way. But I think JTTMT's are like those pictured above. Reason I was considering changing was due to the fact all my brake lines ran on top of the springs. And bleeders were on the bottom. They should be on top, correct? Georg suggested I move the lines so they don't get crushed by a bump stop. I probably switch them back the way they were.

Mine are rotated 180 degrees:

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Brakes moved back to old location. Same as picture above. Brake lines relocated on rear axle. Rear is complete, filled with some royal purple to boot. Compressor mount started. It's going under the hood. The front axel update: 3rd put back in,hubs degreased and new bearing installed. Cleaned everything else up for front end rebuild. This is where the suck comes in! I placed order with Luke Nov 2 for 1 ton kit,six bolt steering arms,weld on brackets for arms. Had to send him my pitman arm to taper out. Sent next day and showed he received a few days later. Well after a few unanswered emails and phone messages I get a call saying it's ready to ship. A month later! Pay with CC and he told me shipping next day. A week later I have no shipping number or package but I do have another larger charge on CC. Emails sent no response, phone calls no response. 3 days later get a call from Luke saying it was a mistake. He said everything was shipped. Get the package today and I'm happy because I can finally finish this. Nope he didn't send weld on stud brackets So far 2 unanswered phone messages and a email to send parts ASAP. I have used him in the past for a 80 rear bumper and other parts but never had these issues. If any body has some brackets let me know. I will replace them in a month whenever I receive mine:bang:
 
and the beat goes on....
 
Had some guest come up for some work Sunday. We finished arb compressor mount, wiring everything up. Diff breather extension. Also front end built with six shooters on. Sleeved drag link but ran into a small issue. One TRE screwed in to far and was a bitch to get out. Once out it was discovered threads are fubr. Tried to rethread with tre and it's stuck for good. Plan is to get rough stuff weld in bungs and Jrob has some 1.5" 1/4 wall pipe that will be new drag link. Thanks Jrob and JTTMT for the help this weekend!
 
Sorry I missed I bro. Too much family stuff going on.
 
Enjoyed it also Fergie....yeah, I hate we messed up that TRE!...we would have gotten thru!
 
More pics
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Bad news is I went out this morning and turned compressor on engaged rear then front to make sure everything was good to go. Front kept cycling compressor on every few seconds. Checked all the fittings with soap. All are ok. Air coming from diff breather. Took bulk head fitting off and replaced oring to copper line still same results. So I have determined it has to be from copper line to locker. Jacked up front end and engaged locker and it still works but the compressor runs every few seconds. i also put a short arb line directly on the copper line itself and blew into it. Could feel pressure in it and could not hear air passing by. Not sure if the line has a hole or not. Really not looking foward to tearing down the front end again.....
Any thought?
 
With the way the copper lines are routed in the new ARB's, it is easy to pinch when installing the diff. I've torn one removing the diff before.

It could also be the o-ring at the seal housing.

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Have you driven it much with the front axle engaged & locked? Maybe you'll get lucky and that seal just needs to get lube worked into it.

They 90's are worth the asking price if you put it in the solenoid before it pukes gear oil all over the pretty red paint. You can then run the blow-off down under the truck.

90-degree ARB Solenoid Exhaust Fitting | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

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Didn't know they would puke. I will fix that.
I tested them after the Diffs where installed. Held air, compressor never cycled like it's doing now. Did it several times before I drove it. Didn't start till after I drove it.

I'm hoping that Cams theory will work.
 
I would think that if it is a pinched line, or worse - if it is contacting the ring gear, it would run continuously.

Were these new or used lockers?
 
Yes I am. Drove it today in 4 high for about 15 miles. Stopped and turned lockers on and it worked as it should. Drove some more and tried again it started on/off again. I turned compressor off and engaged lockers and it worked fine. Maybe it did need a little lube.
 
Hopefully that's all it is. I've had mine need act like what you're describing for a cycle or two after long periods of non-use.
 
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