SOS on birfield job - long axle side

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Riley, Simon,

Excelent field engineering :cheers:


Um, what are those yellow boxes in the background for? :rolleyes:

Does the BOSS know about that? :flipoff2:


D-
 
Dan, Well those pretty "boxes" are for my next project. :D

The boss knows about em but I'm not sure when I'll get to "play trucks with my friend again". Humf - she calls this playing. :rolleyes:

The honey-do list is getting long and my 80 (well her 80) isn't on it >:(

What a friend eh? Helps his buddy do his birfs while his OME stuff sits idle. A deals a deal. ;)
 
Well done guys - this has been better than a soap opera! You mentioned that you managed ot reseat the ring about 2" from its intended location - why couldn't you seat it in the correct location?

Cheers, Hugh
 
Hugh,

I believe that he ment that it seated about 2 inches from the seal. That is where it sits.
 
Not quite done yet, but, having experienced 3.75 birfield repacks on two trucks I now claim expertise so I will hold forth on my knowledge by giving some tips:

1. the photo above posted by Riley shows an excellent way to clean the birfields without popping them off the shaft if you have time. Even though we had cleaned them pretty well before we started soaking, once they had soaked overnight in varsol lots of grease came out including small clumps suspended in the varsol. After that, filling up the birf with varsol, twisting the axle shaft around, then inverting, draining, twisting, wiping, then repeat, quickly produced virtually clear varsol draining out and no signs of any remaining old grease in the cage.

2. it is possible and actually quite easy to pull and replace the knuckles and knuckle bearings without disconnecting the tie rods. I am not sure I understand the concern about this raised in some earlier posts. If I get time I may do a write up on the knuckles as Jim Phillips skipped this step, and the only other write up is for a 60 and must be written by an australian because everything is upside down.

3. when doing this job buy a spare inner oil seal if working at a time your dealership is closed. It is fairly easy to kink the seal while trying to seat it. If not used, the spare may be useful on the trail some day.

4. check your rotors before you order the birfield parts. This is a good time to replace them if needed.

5. after you pull the birfield and inner oil seal shine a flashlight into the axle tube to make sure there are no foreign objects.
 
nope. it's not seated where it should be although it is facing the right way. It would not slide any further in the tube and started to distort when we applied more pressure. It is, however, wedged in real good.
 
Simon,

So is it in about 4 inches then?

Great additional information BTW.

Agreed, it is possible to do without splitting the tie rods. The main reason to split the tie rods is to be able to accurately check the trunion bearing pre-load. The pre-load can't be measured with the tie rods attached.
It seems that many 80's that go back togther with original shims have a pre-load that is within spec.
 
Dan, good point. I hope my preload is right. Here is my write up on the knuckle housing/bearing part of the job for anyone's comments or critique...

-remove the bolt holding abs sensor on top of the knuckle housing (12mm) and lay the sensor out of the way propped against the caliper.

-unscrew the retaining plates that hold the inner wiper seals to the knuckle housing (10mm). peel away the felt, rubber and metal rings from the housing. You will need a wrench to access some of the bolts.

-remove the two bolts (17 mm) holding the upper bearing housing to the knuckle. The bearing housing can now be gently pried off. Be careful of the shim, which varies in thickness between trucks. If you encounter difficulties, try using two flat head screw drivers at the same time at either end so that it lifts off evenly.

-loosen but don’t remove the 4 nuts (17 mm)that attach the lower control arm/bearing housing to the knuckle (consult FSM and remove the tie rod if you plan to check the preload)

-tap the studs or the housing with a brass hammer to loosen the cone washers.

-remove the nuts, washers and cone washers, clean for reuse. If any studs come loose, remove and reinstall them using lock tight during reassembly.

-Clean all grease off the machined surfaces and out of the thread holes on both bearing housings

-pry the control arm away from the knuckle housing

-slide the outer knuckle housing off taking care to catch the bearings if they fall out (if you plan to reuse). label any bearings you might reuse. Replace any you drop unless it is a very soft landing.

-if you have not already done so, remove the birfield now. Line the flat mark in the housing to the top of the knuckle housing and slide it out.

-pull out the inner oil seal

- after removing the birfield and the old inner oil seal shine a flashlight into the axle housing and look around. There should be nothing visible loose in the housing and there should be an index ring about 2 inches from the oil seal flush against the inner lip of the machined surface (it may look like part of the housing). This ring can occasionally come loose. If it has it will likely be lying in the housing and you will need to reseat it somehow.

-clean the upper and lower bearings and inspect checking the rollers carefully for scoring and any signs of damage or discolouration to the housing. If you are satisfied to reuse them, thoroughly clean them and repack with fresh grease. don't forget the labels

-if you are not reusing bearings, remove the races from the inner knuckle housing. use a brass hammer and a long brass drift threaded into the housing from the hole for the top bearing to remove the lower race and vice versa. There are prominent slots in the knuckle housing around the races to expose a surface to strike the races for removal.

-if using new bearings, replace the races using the old races as a guide to knock them in. Make sure the races taper outward. make sure you match the new races to the new bearings they came with. Pack the new bearings with moly grease.

-clean the inner and outer knuckle housings and remove all grease, including grease in all thread holes.

-clean and repack the birfield. If you don't plan to disassemble but have time then, after cleaning as best you can, drill two 1.5" holes in a piece of plywood and drop the birfields into the holes so the bowls face up then fill them with varsol and allow them to soak overnight.

-seat the inner oil seal. A big rubber mallet and a 3x3 block of wood with a face shaved to roughly the same size as the seal is the best way we found to seat it. A piece of 1.5" abs pipe will also work if you have a steady hand and cut both ends square. The seal does not seat flush in the housing but actually goes a little further in leaving a slight lip.

-slide the wiper seal kit over the inner knuckle ready for seating. starting with closest to the centre of the truck, the order is felt seal, rubber seal with ridge facing towards the differential, metal seal.

-coat the outside of the inner and inside of the outer knuckle housing with moly grease.

-insert the new upper bearing in its race, and balance the lower bearing inside the outer knuckle housing. Slide the outer knuckle housing over the inner housing lining up the bearings to the holes.

-lightly grease the machined surface of the upper bearing housing, and install using the shim. Before installing take care to make sure hole in outer knuckle is lined up with the bearing by moving the knuckle housing.

-lightly grease the machined surface of the lower bearing housing, and install. Press upwards until you can fasten two diagnoally opposite bolts onto the studs to secure. check that bearing is lined up by reaching finger down from inside the inner knuckle to feel the centre dimple in the bearing housing. Tighten bolts taking care to check bearing is lined up. Place cone washers and washers on the other two studs and tighten. Remove the first two bolts, install cone washers and washers and replace. Use locktite on any studs that came apart during removal.

-torque bolts and nuts on upper and lower bearing housings to FSM specifications (check the torque again after initial test drive and again a week after the job)

-grease inside of inner knuckle housing, without getting grease on inner oil seal.

-insert birfield with flat mark on birfeld bell housing at the top until bell seats all the way into knuckle. Be patient. This can take a few tries.

-clean grease off abs sensor and replace.

-install the two overlapping retaining plates that hold the wiper seal in place. Take care that all the bolts pass through the holes in the felt seal.

-when installing the spindle, check inside the shaft at the brass bushing. Newer versions have a roller bearing inside the spindle here which needs to be cleaned and greased in situ before assembly.
 
because I wrote it in wordperfect and Woody's software doesn't like word perfect's apostrophes. I am trying to learn to type without them. Not much success.
 
Typical Barrister,

Buffs it and puffs it and then transports it here instead of posting from the hip like us low-lifes :flipoff2:


:cheers: :beer: ;)
 
Gee and I thought it was some wild codes for beers and such that didn't work on my browser.

Word Perfect? now that's dating yourself.
 
hey guys, i know i'm coming in a little late on this thread, but i ran into the same problem with that little ring coming unseated on a friends mini-truck the other day. We came up with a pretty easy solution:

-remove the third member to remove the ring (only takes a few minutes if the axle shafts are out)
-get long piece of pvc pipe about the same diameter as the axle shaft.
-get to some connecting pieces of pvc. one that fits over the long piece and one that fits over that connecting piece.
-insert the long pvc through the axle seal into the third member area.
-place the ring over the pvc (we had to cut a ring out of a larger piece first to keep the ring centered)
-slide a larger size or combination of sizes on behind the ring, drill a hole completely through the two or three pieces and bolt them together.
-now the ring is centered on the long pvc pipe and you have a piece or pieces that press against the ring from the inside and keep it from sliding off the end.
-just pull from the knuckle end and the ring will seat. once its set give it some more sharp pulls.
-now just push the pipe back to the third member hole, unbolt, and pull everything out.

It seemed to set it pretty well and doesn't take long at all. plus, you don't have to take the knuckle off or remove the axle seal.

aaron
 
Simon & Riley,
Nice work!

Very nice detail on the knuckle section.

-B-
 
:frown:

coming in late....any photos of the tool that was successfully used to pull this ring back into place inside the axle tube.....I'm dealing with the prob. right now and can see the indexing ring leisurely lounging in the axle tube....Seems like the several year old photos are gone......

If you rotate my photo clockwise 90 degrees you can see the ring resting in the lower right of the frame.....
axle hjousing long side.webp
 
I got it fished into position with a piece of wire but if the photos of the puller/slide hammer tool were available it might save me some time in figuring out how to press/pull it into place.....
 
I'm going out right know to raise that side just a little higher to move some of the gear oil out of my way......
 
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