Builds Sold! Land Crusher - 1993 FZJ80 3x Locked - Introduction and Build Thread

[ThomasMore66]

I was able to drain the coolant and pull the fan, shroud, clutch, and radiator last night. I've also realized that I'm incredibly slow at this work.

While pulling the radiator I realized that the PO lost/damaged most of the isolator brackets for the radiator. The passenger side main bracket is completely gone.

The other two isolators that you access behind the headlights were all mangled. Plus I managed to lose one of the 12mm nuts.

Anybody know the PNs for all four of the isolator fasteners for the radiator?


The fan shroud was also cracked. Should I just glue back together or go ahead and replace?

But this beautiful Ron Davis Racing radiator is going back in (along with some other cooling goodies)!

I have a list of things to buy for the cruiser and that radiator is on the list! Thing of beauty.

 

[MrMikeyG]

Very clean truck, and great progress so far!
Here is a general question regarding the PAIR delete; if you look at the second pic in post #96 you see the air cleaner canister and the little tube jutting out that everyone wants to cap off/seal/block. Isn't there a different top "elbow?" assembly out there from trucks that never had the PAIR system? I,e; no tube to seal off, nothing to tip off inspection stations. Just curious.

 

[Will Van]

I have a list of things to buy for the cruiser and that radiator is on the list! Thing of beauty.

Thanks! The Ron Davis radiator really is a work of art! I wasn't having any cooling issues before, but since I'm doing all of this preventative maintenance, I thought I'd go ahead and upgrade.

Very clean truck, and great progress so far!
Here is a general question regarding the PAIR delete; if you look at the second pic in post #96 you see the air cleaner canister and the little tube jutting out that everyone wants to cap off/seal/block. Isn't there a different top "elbow?" assembly out there from trucks that never had the PAIR system? I,e; no tube to seal off, nothing to tip off inspection stations. Just curious.

Thank you!

Good question, and something I've already thought about (Great minds think alike!).

• 1993 - 1994 trucks had the PAIR system, and the air cleaner canister with the PAIR tube.
• 1995 - 1997 trucks deleted PAIR, but they also modified intake assembly, including changing the MAF sensor. I suspect probably because they wend from OBD1 to OBD2.

In the photos below you can see that the early trucks with PAIR had a square style MAF that bolts to the air filter assembly, then clamps to the intake tube on the other side.

The later style trucks had a round MAF that uses clamps on both sides to mount to the intake and intake tube.


1993-1994 style.

1995 - 1997 style.

So unfortunately its not as simple as swapping over to the new style intake.

 

[Will Van]

Boom! I got back from vacation yesterday and finished pulling the upper plenum today. It was a b*tch!!! I had to pull the starter to get to the runner #6 bolt and nut.

Also, is this hose for the throttle body coolant?

 

[MrMikeyG]

I forgot to check back in on your progress after I posted regarding the intake tube. I think I realized exactly what you showed about 30 min after my question just by flipping around through various engine bay pictures. I got stalled a bit because I had thought I heard of some 94's that didn't get pair. Going that route (if possible), would likely entail a long and frustrating search for uncommon parts anyway.
You are doing a full rear heater delete, or just a bypass?

 

[Will Van]

I forgot to check back in on your progress after I posted regarding the intake tube. I think I realized exactly what you showed about 30 min after my question just by flipping around through various engine bay pictures. I got stalled a bit because I had thought I heard of some 94's that didn't get pair. Going that route (if possible), would likely entail a long and frustrating search for uncommon parts anyway.
You are doing a full rear heater delete, or just a bypass?

Just a bypass for now. The project keeps getting bigger and bigger, so I have to set a boundary somewhere. Otherwise I'll never finish. Eventually I'll go ahead and pull the hardlines and delete the heater under the seat. Probably when I upgrade the stereo system and need a place to mount the amp.

 

[Will Van]

Made more progress today. Evidently someone had previously changed the PHH, because it didn't have the OEM clamp/cotter pin. I went ahead and pulled it anyway.

Plus, I deleted this POS.

 

[Will Van]

Well, I was making good progress...then I dropped my Wits' End commemorative EGR keychain back behind the engine on top of the trans bell housing. I can't even see it, let alone fish it out. Placing an order for another keychain and stopping for the day. Pretty frustrated right now.

 

[NLXTACY]

Doh!!

 

[ZackR]

Well, I was making good progress...then I dropped my Wits' End commemorative EGR keychain back behind the engine on top of the trans bell housing. I can't even see it, let alone fish it out. Placing an order for another keychain and stopping for the day. Pretty frustrated right now.

I'd put on some safety glasses and hit the area with compressed air until it falls out. You don't want to leave parts floating around in places you can't see.

 

[Will Van]

I'd put on some safety glasses and hit the area with compressed air until it falls out. You don't want to leave parts floating around in places you can't see.

Good idea, I'll try that.

 

[ZackR]

Plan B if you don't have compressed air is a shop vac on reverse. Plan C a coat hanger bent up and used to pull it free.

 

[Will Van]

Plan B if you don't have compressed air is a shop vac on reverse. Plan C a coat hanger bent up and used to pull it free.

I used compressed air and a shop vac. I was able to get the gasket, but not the keychain. I may try the coat hanger, but I can’t even see where it is/might be. I just lucked out that the gasket was light enough to blow around.

 

[AUGuy]

If you haven't already, unscrew the luggage rack and have a peek under the mounting brackets. It's a notorious spot for rust to hide and cause problems as the plastic sits directly on the paint and rubs down to the metal after 20 years or so. Also, pull up the carpet in the drivers/passenger side and give a look around the drain plugs--another common hidey hole for rust.

 

[graham5david]

Made more progress today. Evidently someone had previously changed the PHH, because it didn't have the OEM clamp/cotter pin. I went ahead and pulled it anyway.

Plus, I deleted this POS.

Quick question? Is there anyway to get the EGR pipe disconnected from the back of the head with everything still in place. I have bypassed mine by splicing the wires but would love to remove everything else.

 

[Will Van]

If you haven't already, unscrew the luggage rack and have a peek under the mounting brackets. It's a notorious spot for rust to hide and cause problems as the plastic sits directly on the paint and rubs down to the metal after 20 years or so. Also, pull up the carpet in the drivers/passenger side and give a look around the drain plugs--another common hidey hole for rust.

I should have included the roof rack delete in the build thread: Roof Rack Delete

I'm still working on the drains for the sunroof.

Quick question? Is there anyway to get the EGR pipe disconnected from the back of the head with everything still in place. I have bypassed mine by splicing the wires but would love to remove everything else.

You can remove the EGR pipe by pulling the front driver's side tire and the fender liners. It's near the pesky heater hose.

ExpeditionLCMajorcoolingoverhaul

Slee - PHH (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

 

[graham5david]

I should have included the roof rack delete in the build thread: Roof Rack Delete

I'm still working on the drains for the sunroof.



You can remove the EGR pipe by pulling the front driver's side tire and the fender liners. It's near the pesky heater hose.

ExpeditionLCMajorcoolingoverhaul

Slee - PHH (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

Should be just as fun as changing the phh was. But definitely doable.

 

[Will Van]

Made some progress today. A friend fabricated an aluminum EGR block off plate for me, so I was able to finish my EGR delete.

I also finished the PHH install and capped the coolant line under the lower intake manifold so I can bypass throttle body coolant lines.

Then I replaced the heater valve, finished the firewall heater hoses, and bypassed the rear heater.

I followed this writeup and drilled/tapped a 1/8" NPT port for my AutoMeter Water temp gauge. Koso slim water temp gauge install (Just FYI, the writeup uses a 1/8" NPT tap, but the Koso water sensor is 1/8" BSPT. So you either need a BSPT tap if you want to use Koso unit, or find 1/8" NPT water temp sensor which is much more common.)

 

[ZackR]

Looking good! This thread is a good example of why its preferable to have a second vehicle other than the cruiser (I assume). It gives you the ability to dive in and get everything taken care of "while you are in there" and not worry about getting it back on the road the next day for work.

Do you know the status of the valve cover gasket and oil pump cover gasket? If not tackle those while the radiator is out and everything is opened up. I just did mine and the oil leaks are finally gone, I can't tell you how nice it is to be done with oil everywhere.

 

[Will Van]

Looking good! This thread is a good example of why its preferable to have a second vehicle other than the cruiser (I assume). It gives you the ability to dive in and get everything taken care of "while you are in there" and not worry about getting it back on the road the next day for work.

Do you know the status of the valve cover gasket and oil pump cover gasket? If not tackle those while the radiator is out and everything is opened up. I just did mine and the oil leaks are finally gone, I can't tell you how nice it is to be done with oil everywhere.

Thanks! I agree, it's really nice to be able to take my time and do it right "while I'm in there." Although, my girlfriend constantly wants to know if it's done and if I've fixed the A/C yet (I haven't). That's the way this whole project got started. I just need to know the PN for the A/C clutch bearing, which I haven't had enough time to research. Then I can tackle A/C. I'm trying to do it without cracking the system open. We'll see how that goes.

I ordered a valve cover gasket and the spark plug grommets, but I'm not sure I'm going to install them. At some point you have to stop the project and start putting it back together, otherwise you'll end up rebuilding the whole motor, or you'll never finish. Then the truck becomes a big paperweight. How did you know the valve cover gasket and oil pump cover gasket needed replacing? Oil everywhere?

So far, this round of maintenance/mods has become:

• Repair A/C
• New belts and hoses
• Delete PAIR
• Delete EGR
• Remove EGR tube and install block off plate
• Delete all vacuum lines/VSV crap under upper intake manifold
• Bypass Fuel Regulator VSV
• Delete throttle body coolant lines
• Replace misc. fuel hose cracked and dry-rotted
• Replace PHH
• Replace FHH
• Swap to "Late Style" water pipe hardline on the t-stat housing
• Bypass rear heater
• Replace thermostat
• Replace radiator
• Replace radiator cap
• Source radiator brackets and replace isolators that PO lost
• Add aftermarket temp gauge
• Wrap wiring harness where EGR tube cooked split loom
• Install Dual Battery Setup/misc. wiring
• Install BIO rear bumper

In regards to the wiring harness, do you have any suggestions on how to fix the sheathing? Luckily none of the actual wires were damaged. I was just going to wrap with electrical tape, and replace the split loom cover. Without the EGR tube, there really shouldn't be that much heat in that area.

I still might do the valve cover gasket, spark plug grommets, PCV grommet, and oil pump cover. It would give me the opportunity to powder-coat the valve cover (and maybe intake manifold), which would look slick!

Do you know, is the valve cover baffle bolted in place? Is it removable? Or does it use rivets that need to be drilled out?