Slee Spindle Grease Tool (1 Viewer)

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Out of curiousity I’ve been searching on this subject and can find nothing but mixed answers. Discussion of bring up everything from “moly grease fluidity”, “swirling effect of a spinning birfield”, and I even searched for moly grease viscosity test and found no solid answers as to if the knuckle is topped off if that grease even reaches the birf. Also I notice this topic usually opens a can of worms as it’s been discussed numerous times over the past 10 years, but no hard evidence is ever brought forth in discussions.

Anywho, myself and some friends are going on a 1500 mile overland trip this weekend. I just rebuilt the birfs/axles knuckles no more than 1000 miles ago and followed the FSM to the “T”, but the OCD perfectionist side of me wants to be 100% sure my birfs and knuckles are completely packed as I’m the only one rolling around in a 20+ year old vehicle. I have the Slee knuckle grease tool and I’m curious, in theory if you pump the knuckle full of grease (using the Slee spindle grease tool) will any of that grease reach the birf? I’d imagine gravity would do its thing and the grease would eventually pile up and fall into the birfield side of the cavity, after filling the outer knuckle up of course. Or would it be just as effective turning the wheel to full lock (depending on which side you’re filling) and pumping thru the plug?
 
I think filling the cavity from up above using the hole that the ABS sensor lives in would provide a higher change of the grease reaching your intended target. You might be able to move the grease gun hose toward the front of the birf opening area and pump like a mad man! Just my .02 cents.
 
Grease in birf/knuckle: hole at top (easy access)

Grease between axle and spindle: Slee or DIY tool (I'd say this needs to be done way more than we discuss it here).
 
I have the Slee knuckle grease tool and I’m curious, in theory if you pump the knuckle full of grease (using the Slee spindle grease tool) will any of that grease reach the birf?

At work, Birfields are machined through the center and tapped for a zirk to allow regular greasing. One can get fancy and drill and tap the top filler for PRV's so you cannot overfill. So that's the route I took when installing new OEM birfs. Machining cost was less than the Slee tool.

I think I pumped it twice (?) over 30k km's of hard miles and the Birf's looked new upon rebuild. So, I think you will be A-ok for 2k! But if you're obsessed with greasing, like I was, take them to a machine shop next time you have them out. Be sure to recess the zirks so the dust cover fits back on.
 
Gun drilling the birfield allows the internals of the joint to receive direct lubrication but will not directly lubricate the bushing in the spindle. Vice versa for the Sled tool. If you want to fulfill your OCD fantasies you need both, otherwise just service your vehicle according to the FSM.
 
I’ve been dabbling with drilling and tapping the knuckle plugs with a zerk. I have some around already done if you’d like a pair.

My intention is to use them on our 80 and all of our 40s.

At some point my goal is to offer HD SS knuckle wiper retainers too to better keep the grease in and the crud out. The zero plug would be a nice package part to that.
 
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Grease between axle and spindle: Slee or DIY tool (I'd say this needs to be done way more than we discuss it here).

Why would there need to be grease between the spindle and axle, other than to make a mess? If the axle is contacting the spindle, there are much bigger problems that need to be addressed.

If the grease level is correctly maintained in the knuckle, half or a little better full, everything that needs it, will be lubed. Can use whatever complex method you prefer, even swinging a dead cat over your head while doing it, whatever, none of it will work any better than simply using the provided hole.
 
Spindle bushings or needle bearings need grease; Slee (and others) made a tool to service this need.

Why would there need to be grease between the spindle and axle, other than to make a mess? If the axle is contacting the spindle, there are much bigger problems that need to be addressed.
 
Spindle bushings or needle bearings need grease; Slee (and others) made a tool to service this need.

No tool needed. If the grease level is correctly maintained in the knuckle, half or a little better full, everything that needs it, will be lubed.
 
^^^This^^^. When you pump grease in via the inspection port it drops directly down onto the backside of the birfield, where the spindle bushing/bearings are located. It then gets pulled in by the grooves of the rotating spindle bushing, as designed. The rapidly spinning CV joint spreads the grease around the rest of the knuckle cavity.

Here's a photo taken just before installing the spindle, grease gun
nozzle upper left inserted into the inspection port (left knuckle):

Greasing via the inspection port Land Cruiser.JPG
 
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MrOswalt- You said " the OCD perfectionist side of me wants to be 100% sure my birfs and knuckles are completely packed as I’m the only one rolling around in a 20+ year old vehicle "

Packing the joint FULL of grease will cause the inner axle seal to fail and when you turn the wheel, the extra grease will be forced by the seal, and into the axle tubes. Also too much grease will squish out your brand new wiper seals excessively.

I understand , and relate to your self confessed OCDness. Most all of us Cruiser nerds suffer from the same personality trait. But have faith in the fact that you did a complete overhaul in the front end with all new grease, and new seals. Brand new moly grease that has not been thinned out by gear oil will do a fabulous job of lubing those Birfields. IMO, The most common problem people have when they do the front birfield job is not getting a good preload on the wheel bearings. Second most common problem is messing up that inner axle seal when they were stabbing in the axles. As for the inner axle seal, a 1500 mile trip will not cause a catastrophic break down. Conversely, a real loose wheel bearing will cause a catostrophic failure eventually, but you will have had to missed the preload by a huge amount. Just jack the front end up, check the each wheel bearing for 12:00 - 6:00 knocking. RE-check your torque on the 4 lower and 2 upper nuts/bolts on the truion bearings, and finish off with the brake caliper bolts. If those are all good, drive that sucker with no worries. Too much grease is bad, and too little grease is bad. But the middle sweet spot between those two points is actually pretty wide.
 
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Just made the drive back home. After driving 515 miles to the event, bearing the hell out of the truck, and driving home I can say I for sure rebuild the axle correctly. I did top off the knuckles with about 20 shots from a grease gun as they were under 3/4 full, but the truck performed and handled perfectly. No strange noises from the knuckles or wheel bearings but I have a sneaking suspicion I have a front carrier bearing on the way out, so I’ll be adding that to the list. Thanks for all the helpful comments guys, it was and is much appreciated
 

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