Skid Plate Oil Filter Mod

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Sep 7, 2020
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I changed the oil this weekend on my 2013 LX 570 and it was nearly as bad as the first time. That skid plate really sucks bad. I think I am going to cut the plate with a hole saw for access and maybe 3D print a cover in ABS or PETG to cover it. I can get a brand new plate for $280 so I may just buy that if it turns out awful.

I just dreaded doing the oil change and ran 3K miles over because I didn't want to deal with it. Without the skid plate removal and with my Fumoto, that could be a 10 minute job, instead of messing around with 3 DIFFERENT bolt head sizes! I am also switching to the aluminum filter housing, because the plastic started to strip.

Has anyone accomplished this mod? It seems pretty easy and straightforward.
 

bloc

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Get a 3/8" cordless impact gun. I can get the driver side and under-engine skids off in about 30 seconds using mine, no exaggeration. Reinstall is a couple minutes, just have to be careful with the trigger then go back to snug things up with a ratchet.
 
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Get a 3/8" cordless impact gun. I can get the driver side and under-engine skids off in about 30 seconds using mine, no exaggeration. Reinstall is a couple minutes, just have to be careful with the trigger then go back to snug things up with a ratchet.
I hear you, but I can have the hole cut in 30 seconds too and I never have to deal with it again. It's making sure that I have all three different bolt head sizes which takes so long. Plus then I have a skid plate and 6-8 bolts on the ground that get in the way, when their is just zero reason to have anything but the filter housing unscrewed. Why it doesn't have an access panel like I have seen on the 100 series is beyond me.
 

bloc

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It’s simple cost/benefit.

Cost: More parts, more $, less durability, less parts interchangeability between models with different engines

Benefit: Prevent inconvenience for the extremely small percentage of people that have an issue with the skids as designed.
 
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It’s simple cost/benefit.

Cost: More parts, more $, less durability, less parts interchangeability between models with different engines

Benefit: Prevent inconvenience for the extremely small percentage of people that have an issue with the skids as designed.
Makes total sense. I am not planning on spending any money on this though. I have the hole saw and 3d printer. For some it may be absolutely not an inconvenience, but for me it was. A simple little hole and it won't be any more.
 

RET2

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Makes total sense. I am not planning on spending any money on this though. I have the hole saw and 3d printer. For some it may be absolutely not an inconvenience, but for me it was. A simple little hole and it won't be any more.
Keep us up to speed on your efforts and results please !
 
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Just get the correct Bud Built piece and all the design,testing and work has been done.

I am definitely interested in something aftermarket. The only things I could find available were either way over engineered or didn't have a oil filter access either. Do you know if the Bud Built connects at the stock locations?
 

RET2

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Bud's has removable covers for both filter and oil pan drains. Stout would be an understatement, recessed bolt heads for no snag bottoms.
 
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Bud's has removable covers for both filter and oil pan drains. Stout would be an understatement, recessed bolt heads for no snag bottoms.

Do you know if it bolts in to the stock locations?

Also, any clue if the rest of the panels work with this system. It's my wife's (for now) and I really don't want to alter the look.
 

CharlieS

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The Budbuilt skids do not use the same exact mounting scheme. There are two plates that replace the engine skid. The front one mounts to the radiator support/crossmember at the front, and to the engine skid at the back. The engine skid mounts to the beefy crossmember between the wheels (5 bolts) and the next crossmember back (two bolts through existing holes). The transmission and transfer cascade back from there.

If you just want a hole for changing your oil filter, your solution seems smart. Budbuilt skids are way overkill if that is all you are trying to do.

A BJowett filter housing and Fumoto valve for both the oil pan and filter might be a better choice for mess free oil changes.
 
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The Budbuilt skids do not use the same exact mounting scheme. There are two plates that replace the engine skid. The front one mounts to the radiator support/crossmember at the front, and to the engine skid at the back. The engine skid mounts to the beefy crossmember between the wheels (5 bolts) and the next crossmember back (two bolts through existing holes). The transmission and transfer cascade back from there.

If you just want a hole for changing your oil filter, your solution seems smart. Budbuilt skids are way overkill if that is all you are trying to do.

A BJowett filter housing and Fumoto valve for both the oil pan and filter might be a better choice for mess free oil changes.

BJowett filter housing - I didn't see any in stock. It looks pretty rad though. I am definitely interested in the skid plates long term. The Lexus needs to continue to wear off and let the LC come out, and then I get to take over and have some fun.
 

bloc

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The Lexus needs to continue to wear off and let the LC come out, and then I get to take over and have some fun.
Well put.
 
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Budbuilt skids mount to existing holes in the frame, which I think is what you're asking. No drilling/tapping necessary.

The added benefit to the Budbuild solution if you buy the transmission skid too- is you get catalytic converter protection as well. So to me the spend is fully justified.

Combine with a BJowett filter housing, oil changes are a breeze.

The only thing that's more difficult is lubing your front drive shaft.
 
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I just took a hole saw and drilled a good size hole and smoothed out the edges.

Then I took a square plate to use as inspection plate and drilled 8 holes along the edges and corners ... and tapped the skid plate for the little bolt holes.

Works excellent.
 

CharlieS

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Budbuilt skids mount to existing holes in the frame, which I think is what you're asking. No drilling/tapping necessary.

The added benefit to the Budbuild solution if you buy the transmission skid too- is you get catalytic converter protection as well. So to me the spend is fully justified.

Combine with a BJowett filter housing, oil changes are a breeze.

The only thing that's more difficult is lubing your front drive shaft.
It also adds a ton of weight, which may be fine if you need it (I do). The stainless ones I have now weigh a ton, even the Aluminum skids add a lot of weight. If one's sole goal is to make oil changes easier, going to Budbuilt skids is like shooting a mosquito with an elephant gun. I absolutely love Budbuilt products, but it's probably overkill unless someone needs serious offroad protection.
 
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Los Alamos, NM
I just took a hole saw and drilled a good size hole and smoothed out the edges.

Then I took a square plate to use as inspection plate and drilled 8 holes along the edges and corners ... and tapped the skid plate for the little bolt holes.

Works excellent.
Can you post a pic?
 
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My 200 came with ARB skid plates, which do NOT have access plates for either the oil filter or drain plug. Made me quite displeased to discover that when I did my first oil change, especially when I noticed that because of the way the ARB sections interconnect, you need to remove ALL of them to get at the oil filter and drain plug.

Wish the previous owner had bought Bud Built or Slee skid plates instead
 
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I just took a hole saw and drilled a good size hole and smoothed out the edges.

Then I took a square plate to use as inspection plate and drilled 8 holes along the edges and corners ... and tapped the skid plate for the little bolt holes.

Works excellent.

Did you take any pictures? I would love to see.
 
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Atlanta, GA
I am thinking a 4" hole should do the trick. My neighbor has a drill press so I should be able to get the hole parallel to the filter.
 

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