Should I buy an '95 80 with 250k+ miles

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Hi,

I am looking at an 1995 80 with 250k miles on it. Should I even bother with something this high mileage- i am looking for a DD.

whats a fair price?

thanks

also, a seperate question--i keep reading about lockers, but I still dont quite understand what they are (all i know is that i should find factory lockers). can someone create a FAQ or something, cuz I am curious. I am looking at 60's and 80's as a DD, and though I dont imagaine I will be a weekend trail rider (never actually gone offroading) i still want the knowledge.

thanks
 
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250K is not unreasonable for a cruiser well-maintained. But it ain't young either. There are plenty of 80s in the low 100Ks. Unless it's an especially good deal, why not try something a tad younger?
 
Read the whole link he posted (It is in the FAQ) and the answer to your specific questions starts about 3/4's of the way down. You need to have read the first part to understand it though.
 
thc187 said:
also, a seperate question--i keep reading about lockers, but I still dont quite understand what they are (all i know is that i should find factory lockers). can someone create a FAQ or something, cuz I am curious.


Please tell me your not serious.......:doh:

Or that you were making a joke.:D
 
Hey i am a learning newbie. The '95 80 is $2500 with 250K miles. Hate to be a fool with my first TLC, but thats cheap as hell. Another 95 80 with 150K miles is going for 11 grand around here.

thanks

I read the locker info a bunch of times, know I understand what they do. But why need them, according to the FAQ if all are engaged, its harder to turn the wheels.
 
thc187 said:
Hey i am a learning newbie. The '95 80 is $2500 with 250K miles. Hate to be a fool with my first TLC, but thats cheap as hell. Another 95 80 with 150K miles is going for 11 grand around here.

thanks

I read the locker info a bunch of times, know I understand what they do. But why need them, according to the FAQ if all are engaged, its harder to turn the wheels.

you know...you could always just by a jeep and not worry about it...

:flipoff2:


:D


it's hard to say that anyone could go wrong with a $2500 80. What's the condition like?

11k's a tad high for the other 95 IMO.
 
thc187 said:
But why need them, according to the FAQ if all are engaged, its harder to turn the wheels.

If you read Diffs for Dummies and have to ask that question then you need to read it again. For someone that purports to have read the information "a bunch of times", that's the dumbest question I've seen here on IH8MUD in 4 years and I've seen a lot of dumb questions.

-B-
 
How much thc did you have today??????


$2,500 is cheap for any cruiser but not if it's going to cost another $2,500 to get it home. If it drives well it could be worth it. Another couple of grand and you can get one with 100,000 less miles. $11,000 for the other is high.
 
thc187 said:
But why need them, according to the FAQ if all are engaged, its harder to turn the wheels.

We just like building our upper body strength while we drive. Look for one without power steering too.

















Sorry, couldn't resist. :D ;p
 
thc187- that is definitely cheap. I would carefully check the maintenance history- if well maintained, it could be a great deal. If the maintenance history is not good OR unknown, I would probably pass as it could get pretty expensive to fix. Definitely read the FAQ on what to look for in a used 80. Check: front end (axle seals)- do the birfs click when accelerating on full wheel turn?, condition of all fluids, radiator, get some compression numbers, check head gasket (simple 'bubbles in overflow' test), etc, etc. That said, if you can afford a newer rig, you can get far fewer miles and likely better condition in the $6-9k range.

Nobody wants to tell you that difflocks are used for additional traction offroad because it is explained in the "Diffs for Dummies" article you supposedly read. 10 second summary: they lock the left and right wheels together so they turn at the same rate. Without them, power goes through the path of least resistance which means if you had one wheel off the ground or on a loose surface, it would get all the power and the wheel with traction would not.
 
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Ahh. thanks Alaska. I did read it a number of times, but now you helped make it all click.

Cant wait till I have a few hundred posts, that I get to make fun of the newbie :)-~
 
i scored a 93 with 113k for $5800 that was in awesome shape but needed a little "Front End Love"

now i love my truck and all the $ i saved i put into mods!
 
For no more than what you need, why not try to find an FJ80 (91-92)?

The 3FE has less power, but is "more reliable" (has less to it).

Plus, FJ80's are cheap and plentiful.

Just throwing that out there.
 
ad title says '95, ad text says '94, picture says '94 (or 93).
 
$2500 is a steal for a running Cruiser. I don't care what the maintenance history is, it's going to need work. The nice thing is you can be driving it and do the work more or less at your leisure. I'd buy it. I'm considering putting exactly that price down for a bid on a wrecked- as in salvage- '93, although it's locked and has half the mileage.

-Spike
 
FJ809496TLC said:


From the ad: "NO RUST ON THE CHASE." I'm guessing chassis? :D

Anyway I wish I had bought something like this to keep in L.A. instead of dropping much more for half the miles on the LX 450. (But a year and a half ago, before discovering IH8MUD, I was REAL stupid not just borderline retarded like I am now. :D ).

I say if the diagnostics show that it isn't about to conk out, go for it.
 

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