- Thread starter
- #3,121
In
now Out
love bench pressing this thing...
now Out
love bench pressing this thing...
Builds Shipwreck
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #3,122
blew the t-case apart
I upgraded the front output to a 32 spline so need to get this machined
top gear, old, bottom gear new
hopefully I can get the machining done by Friday then reassemble on Sunday with a Tuesday reinstall....
I upgraded the front output to a 32 spline so need to get this machined
top gear, old, bottom gear new
hopefully I can get the machining done by Friday then reassemble on Sunday with a Tuesday reinstall....
I actually had Behemoth reach out to me yesterday asking me if i was interested in there t case. its just a fancy Dana 300blew the t-case apart
I upgraded the front output to a 32 spline so need to get this machined
top gear, old, bottom gear new
hopefully I can get the machining done by Friday then reassemble on Sunday with a Tuesday reinstall....
The crappy part is i have a Orion that has at most 100 miles on it . and a Atlas or Behemoth will do the exact same thing as it does right now 
it just will center my driveline that has not been a issue 
. so its been kinda hard to press the button for another 4-5 grand but i am inching closer to doing it .
it just will center my driveline that has not been a issue . so its been kinda hard to press the button for another 4-5 grand but i am inching closer to doing it .
- Thread starter
- #3,125
Behemoth is one sweet t-case (as is the Atlas). The following will sound negative, but it's really not. Billet t-cases are cool, but I can't find a reason in my build(s) (including the Blazer) to spend that kind of coin on one. In the end of all of this, I'll have maybe $500 less in the D300 then I would in an Atlas - which really isn't much considering that I'm valuing my labor at 'free.' But with that said, I've 'invested' in this case over time, my initial cost of it was $300 and in the original configuration (32 spline, short output) I had about $1,000 in it. Best part is I've driven it 4000 miles and it's been operational for 10 years.... now it will have 4:1 gears and 32 spline outputs with another $1,200 or so 'invested' .... what is the value of 'operational'? but we will see, good or bad, I'll blog it here.The crappy part is i have a Orion that has at most 100 miles on it . and a Atlas or Behemoth will do the exact same thing as it does right now
- Thread starter
- #3,126
machine work done, foretaste of tomorrow's plans
- Thread starter
- #3,127
I need to get this done, but ... not today... dang
Instructions "grind a slot".... uh, how large? why?
it's so you can assemble the t-case - but no dimensions..
but plenty of grinding
the point of the slot - so you can rotate the carrier into the case with the upper and lower gear sets in place.... now you know
it's kind of cool the engineering - the slot is so it clears the gear
starting to assemble and one of several issues.... in this case, the spacer is Wayyyyyy too thick
so that's one slight to JB Conversions.... the biggest problem I have with them is they, apparently, don't have a tape measure because there's a lot of "install with proper backlash".... ???!!!! or that slot.... no dimensions.... or explanation for that matter - like the shift rod - why the slot, it's once you start assembling that you see why - but it'd be soooo helpful to know that.... with that, it's not impossible.
and it's kind of endemic for suppliers.... in this case, Novak.
I like Novak - very helpful, nice looking stuff.... HOWEVER
the lip on the left shouldn't be there because you need to put a shim here - so no machined correctly at all. The second, on the right... I took the case apart and worried I had metal on metal wear.... but no, that's just the way they machined it.... sloppy. so tomorrow the parts from both JB and Novak go to a machine shop to get fixed....
not really a complaint - they could do better but I'll still buy and recommend them.... but with a few warnings.
Instructions "grind a slot".... uh, how large? why?
it's so you can assemble the t-case - but no dimensions..
but plenty of grinding
the point of the slot - so you can rotate the carrier into the case with the upper and lower gear sets in place.... now you know
it's kind of cool the engineering - the slot is so it clears the gear
starting to assemble and one of several issues.... in this case, the spacer is Wayyyyyy too thick
so that's one slight to JB Conversions.... the biggest problem I have with them is they, apparently, don't have a tape measure because there's a lot of "install with proper backlash".... ???!!!! or that slot.... no dimensions.... or explanation for that matter - like the shift rod - why the slot, it's once you start assembling that you see why - but it'd be soooo helpful to know that.... with that, it's not impossible.
and it's kind of endemic for suppliers.... in this case, Novak.
I like Novak - very helpful, nice looking stuff.... HOWEVER
the lip on the left shouldn't be there because you need to put a shim here - so no machined correctly at all. The second, on the right... I took the case apart and worried I had metal on metal wear.... but no, that's just the way they machined it.... sloppy. so tomorrow the parts from both JB and Novak go to a machine shop to get fixed....
not really a complaint - they could do better but I'll still buy and recommend them.... but with a few warnings.
- Thread starter
- #3,128
the fun continues (and never ends)
now with the right backlash
oh but we're not done, somehow this managed to increase in size so it wouldn't go into the case - whipped out the lathe and fixed it but still puzzled
half filled case
and now with shiny cover on half filled case
now with the right backlash
oh but we're not done, somehow this managed to increase in size so it wouldn't go into the case - whipped out the lathe and fixed it but still puzzled
half filled case
and now with shiny cover on half filled case
- Thread starter
- #3,129
a question.
One of the threads I read in deciding to put a r2.8 Cummins in my wife's JoKe was here on Mud.
So, is there any interest if I simulcast that install here? and by here, I mean in this thread.
details are r.28, TR4050 with 'stock' functionality.
One of the threads I read in deciding to put a r2.8 Cummins in my wife's JoKe was here on Mud.
So, is there any interest if I simulcast that install here? and by here, I mean in this thread.
details are r.28, TR4050 with 'stock' functionality.
- Thread starter
- #3,131
I should be driving this tomorrow
but first, center shaft
it was every bit the pain I remember from last time I did this
shiny bit installed
and pretty much ready to go in
almost in
but first, center shaft
it was every bit the pain I remember from last time I did this
shiny bit installed
and pretty much ready to go in
almost in
- Thread starter
- #3,132
well, time to install
rear driveshaft in... silly me put the foot on the lift so it is in a direct line with the front driveshaft..
not done but at least it can move under its own power
rear driveshaft in... silly me put the foot on the lift so it is in a direct line with the front driveshaft..
not done but at least it can move under its own power
- Thread starter
- #3,133
In today's episode of 'why is the driveshaft hanging up' I channeled my inner Project Wrong way by 'fixin' it
on the other side of the t-case, we had a leak... no more
and took it for a spin tonight.... works great.
on the other side of the t-case, we had a leak... no more
and took it for a spin tonight.... works great.
- Thread starter
- #3,134
and this will fade into the background for a bit.... I'm waiting for the control box I designed for the welder - so for now, time to wheel it
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
It looks amazing!
- Thread starter
- #3,136
In today's fun, I took my '40 for a drive last night to verify everything is working fine.. and it's not. It's overcharging (not terrible, but not good either), and now I have an oil leak. I didn't do anything in the engine compartment but oil leak... check
it's a weird spot - after all, there is no oil above it... then I remembered air cleaner... but no, it's dry
tightened up the valve cover bolts (and they were a bit loose) and throw some prayers at it
will take it for a spin tomorrow to verify it's fixed..... not sure
it's a weird spot - after all, there is no oil above it... then I remembered air cleaner... but no, it's dry
tightened up the valve cover bolts (and they were a bit loose) and throw some prayers at it
will take it for a spin tomorrow to verify it's fixed..... not sure
- Thread starter
- #3,137
found the leaks.... a factory-crimped p/s return hose.... added a worm clamp though at some point I'll have to do it right (unless it works then heck with it).
and the sensor is leaking
this isn't my first rodeo - thus I have spares
and the sensor is leaking
this isn't my first rodeo - thus I have spares
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Ha! I put a crimp clamp on my factory return line at the pump. I only had the push lock hose and I was too lazy to go get the right hose. Seems to work.
- Thread starter
- #3,139
this is kind of giving up but not really.
I bought a welder for the '40
I still have the system I built - but I don't completely trust it, and since the FJ40 has all sorts of electronics in it that could be toasted by a faulty charging system, I called an audible and decided I'll put it on the Blazer (which doesn't have any electronics necessary to keep it running).
I already learned the Premier uses 3 rectifiers instead of just the one I'm using now - and talked about it to my electronic experts and I'll be adding that to my system for the Blazer...
anyway, as the '40 is my only running vehicle, I'm not taking it apart to install the welder until either my 1 ton gets running or the Colorado gets home
I bought a welder for the '40
I still have the system I built - but I don't completely trust it, and since the FJ40 has all sorts of electronics in it that could be toasted by a faulty charging system, I called an audible and decided I'll put it on the Blazer (which doesn't have any electronics necessary to keep it running).
I already learned the Premier uses 3 rectifiers instead of just the one I'm using now - and talked about it to my electronic experts and I'll be adding that to my system for the Blazer...
anyway, as the '40 is my only running vehicle, I'm not taking it apart to install the welder until either my 1 ton gets running or the Colorado gets home
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- #3,140
forgot to mention 'the other thing' Cost. So far, in the other welder I have just over $400 in parts. I need to spend another $100 for additional rectifiers (good ones are not cheap). Thus I have $500 in something that costs $1100 from Premier. Not chump change for certain, but given I don't trust my creation yet - and the cost to replace all the electronics (an aside, I burned up a computer overheating it in the FiTech EFI that was on my Corvette) and here we are. That list of electronics - EFI, msd spark control, dakota digital dash, Ham radio, CB radio, radio/cd player.... sometimes it is cheaper to spend more money because my luck on this stuff is really not good.