Seeking Insight with 04 4Runner Not Starting After Dash Lights Come On (1 Viewer)

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I have a 2004 4Runner Sport Edition and a couple weeks ago my traction control, brake light and a few other lights in that area all came on. Less than 20 minutes later my car lost all power and stalled. I put a booster pack on it and it seemed to be fine. Then today it happened again. Turned the car off then tried to turn back on and it just clicks. The fuse that controls the turn signals and heater control panel keeps blowing as well, seems to be mostly when put into reverse.

Any ideas what's causing this?
 
I have a 2004 4Runner Sport Edition and a couple weeks ago my traction control, brake light and a few other lights in that area all came on. Less than 20 minutes later my car lost all power and stalled. I put a booster pack on it and it seemed to be fine. Then today it happened again. Turned the car off then tried to turn back on and it just clicks. The fuse that controls the turn signals and heater control panel keeps blowing as well, seems to be mostly when put into reverse.

Any ideas what's causing this?
Have you checked the Alternator if it's charging? You didn't mention how many miles, a lot of times it just needs new brushes which are cheap even for a Toyota part. Is it a V8 or V6?

I would leave the fuse for the blower out for now and check your charging system and load test the battery.
 
Have you checked the Alternator if it's charging? You didn't mention how many miles, a lot of times it just needs new brushes which are cheap even for a Toyota part. Is it a V8 or V6?

I would leave the fuse for the blower out for now and check your charging system and load test the battery.
V8 engine with just under 180K. I recently (less than 5K ago) replaced the alternator so that "should" be in good condition.

What are the new brushes you're referencing? And what's the best way to load test the battery?
 
V8 engine with just under 180K. I recently (less than 5K ago) replaced the alternator so that "should" be in good condition.

What are the new brushes you're referencing? And what's the best way to load test the battery?
Did you replace it with a Denso or OE unit? I have the same set up and my alternator went out 220k and put in a factory reman unit, my pick up alternator did last just shy of 300k and all it needed was a new set of brushes. Most parts stores have a tester for battery and even the charging system but the best one would be a carbon pile tester which loads up the alternator to the max output.
 
Did you replace it with a Denso or OE unit? I have the same set up and my alternator went out 220k and put in a factory reman unit, my pick up alternator did last just shy of 300k and all it needed was a new set of brushes. Most parts stores have a tester for battery and even the charging system but the best one would be a carbon pile tester which loads up the alternator to the max output.
Replace it with a Pure Energy Reman unit from Rock Auto.

I will get the battery tested soon as well. I've had the car nearly 2 years and it has the same one it came with, so I'm not sure when it was installed.
 
These are the alternator brushes mounted on the back.
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Thanks! I ended up getting it jumped last night and drove it back home. Went to start it this morning and all I'm getting is clicks. There are some dash lights on and stereo works so not sure at this point what it is.
I suggest pull the battery and get it charge up, if the battery is good it will be able to get you to a shop and have them check the charging system or if you have a volt meter just check and see if it's putting out you should see at least 13.0v or higher.
 
I suggest pull the battery and get it charge up, if the battery is good it will be able to get you to a shop and have them check the charging system or if you have a volt meter just check and see if it's putting out you should see at least 13.0v or higher.
Appreciate your help! I will get to an auto parts store and have the battery checked out.
 

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