Scoobiedubes '72 FJ40

[ChaseTruck]

...
The rig came with a power steering "kit", included a Saginaw pump ...

So: wrong motor. Should be an easy fix.

 

[Tools R Us]

Fixed it for ya....

So: wrong motor. Should be an easy fix.

Shhh! In this deep enough now!

 

[Tools R Us]

I sucked at keeping this thread up to date! So, will post some pix after the fact. Where did I leave it, something about making the pump fit?

Had to make spacers for just about everything. The pump "kit" only had it mounted by two points, the bracket (one bolt) and the adjuster (also one bolt). So, we made ana-other lower mount leg, now it is rock solid. The adjuster didn't reach any of the bolts on the pump, so, made an extender, looks a bit like parts from an erector set, but works.

Cut the van mount off of the GM reservoir, hot wrenched a new Toyota mount on. It now bolts to the air cleaner bracket.

 

[Tools R Us]

Going to need a column shaft. On the early type it is part of the steering box, so, hacked it off. For the spline, chopped a hunk off of the donor 4Runner shaft.

 

[Tools R Us]

The upper column bushing was loose, made a new bushing to press in behind it.

 

[Tools R Us]

Due to the column being part of the box, there is no lower support or bearing. We made a plate to mount it to the firewall, machined a bearing holder and welded them to the column cover tube.

This is the parts of the lower column. A spacer and spline section that get welded to the shaft. Then a bearing, wave and flat washers, snap-ring, then ana-other snap-ring that holds the whole mess into the column cover.

 

[Tools R Us]

The lower column parts, a hunk of tube and 4Runner donor parts.

 

[Tools R Us]

Steering box parts! This one had a bunch of clods of goop in it, not uncommon, mostly from never changing the fluid. The hard parts were in good condition.

The seal areas always take a beating, especially the sector shaft. Off to the lathe to apply some polish, better than new, the seal should be happy!

 

[Tools R Us]

I find the sector seal to be a pain. In the past, messed up a few kits, before getting it down.

It is an o-ring with a teflon ring that goes inside of it, a backup spacer and snap-ring to hold it against the pressure, then a dust seal. Should look like this when done.

The box setup well, good preload. Thanks for the help JJ!

 

[Tools R Us]

Back on the rig.

The kit came with a bling cooler, made tabs to mount it to the radiator mounts. Bled it before mounting the cooler, with it vertical to get all of the air out. Used a drill to turn the pump, worked great, made good power assist.

Hose routing worked out well.

 

[Tools R Us]

The lower pump mount.

All of it rammed in there!

 

[Tools R Us]

Moved the seats for a better seating position, with more adjust-ability. The console was moved back and down, is in a better spot, allowing for use of the cup holders. It can be easily removed to work on it.

 

[scoobiedubes]

Kevin you're a magician - I didn't truly appreciate how much work went into this even just from you showing me and telling me about it, until seeing all these pictures. It steered like a dream on my way home, it's amazing how much of an upgrade this is. I really appreciate how thorough you are and how you always insist on things being done right, no cutting corners. Thanks again! Now if it can just warm up so my hands don't turn blue driving it around town

 

[murf]

looking good!

 

[orangefj45]

that'll work!


fwiw, the design for the pump mount is many years old. i took over from Bill Dorry who originally came up with the idea. there are lietrally hundreds of cruisers out there with this pump mount on them and the vast majority run the bracket supplied and the single tensioner at the front. even though that only offers two attachment points we don't have any issues with vibration or the belts loosening. when i installed my first one i was sceptical as well, but it's proven itself to be a solid setup.

nice work!

georg @ valley hybrids

 

[Tools R Us]

Thanks Georg.

After we talked, I went looking for other threads on installing it on a F motor, all that I found were on 2F motors. The van can worked well, allowing it to work with the stock air filter can. Agree that the extra lower brace was likely unnecessary, but was easy and makes it rock solid.

 

[motovate]

Power steering

Very interesting - this is what I'm wanting to do to my 66, I'm wondering about the spline count on the upper shaft where the steering wheel goes. I think I've read that the early early ( like my 66) FJ40 had a coarser count something like 36 and some time after they went to a finer one some thing like 38 and stayed. No big deal tho since the way you do it by cutting , fitting and turning works good.

You certainly do good work.

LBM

The upper column bushing was loose, made a new bushing to press in behind it.

 

[motovate]

In an earlier thread - I think maybe your first 60 to 40 steering box conversion I think you had to modify the radiator mount to clear the 60 box. Didn't see that here. Wondering if you came up with a way for better clearance or if it just didn't make it into this thread and you still need to modify the radiator mount??

LBM

Chopping on the shock tower to make room for the new box.

 

[Tools R Us]

Very interesting - this is what I'm wanting to do to my 66, I'm wondering about the spline count on the upper shaft where the steering wheel goes. I think I've read that the early early ( like my 66) FJ40 had a coarser count something like 36 and some time after they went to a finer one some thing like 38 and stayed. No big deal tho since the way you do it by cutting , fitting and turning works good.

The early column has a unique spline and is a ton of work to keep. If you are not concerned about keeping the early look, I would swap to the later column ('73 or newer). It has the advantages of; better bearings, switches, already mounts to the firewall, wider steering wheel selection, etc. Still takes some work, wiring, firewall mount, etc, but IMHO, nets a better result.

You certainly do good work.

LBM

Thanks!

 

[Tools R Us]

In an earlier thread - I think maybe your first 60 to 40 steering box conversion I think you had to modify the radiator mount to clear the 60 box. Didn't see that here. Wondering if you came up with a way for better clearance or if it just didn't make it into this thread and you still need to modify the radiator mount??

LBM

The conversions are all a series of compromises, most require rad mount trimming, this one did. Depending on, motor, fan, etc, the rad can be moved to passenger, reducing trimming. If retaining the stock shock tower, it's hard to avoid. If going to the ford shock tower, the box can be moved rearward, and could be spaced away from the frame, avoiding the trim.

IMHO, trimming the rad frame, is simple, as long as it is properly mounted, don't foresee it ever having issues. In most cases, is the way to go, better than the other options.