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I got the tri-mil header and it came with a document stating that they changed their setup to address the alignment issues. So far so good.
 
klinetime574 said:
Oh yeah. It came with some really short wire, that was black and grey.

How do I hook that up? I totally forgot about that.
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Mine (trying hard to remember) was run to the positive side of the coil I believe. It has to be able to be energized when you turn the ignition switch to the first click that lights your dash lights without yet turning the engine over. After waiting a couple seconds , you press the pedal to the floor only ONCE. That should set the electric choke. After she gets running where you want it hit the pedal again to release the choke. That's the way mine worked anyway.:hillbilly:

Touch both sides of the coil with a tester, then turn the ignition forward and check them again. Use the side that's hot.
 
klinetime574 said:
For some real tech: Felpro is the best for header?
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In my header install / desmog thread someone said that the old F gaskets ( from the dealer ) have the largest crush areas, so they'll seal better.

Either that or a Fel Pro. On top of that, I always torque my manifolds to the California spec of 50 ft/lbs instead of 28.
 
Small update.

Filled the engine with oil yesterday. And it started leaking from the side cover.

Today. Pulled off side cover, cleaned cover mating surface a lot better and sealed it up with some black RTV, and OEM gasket. Will fill with more oil tomorrow to see the results.

Also filled transfercase tonight. What a pain that was. I had a little pump that screwed on the gallon bottle. I highly advise against that method. My hand hurts haha

Lowes, Home Depot, and all Autoparts stores around here don't sell M14x1.5 so that was a bummer, gonna have to order them offline or something

Sorry No Pics. ya'll can deal :grinpimp:

-klinetime574
 
mcmaster, or you could go to ACE hardware but they are more expensive and they probably only have like 4.


91180A778 is the part number on McMaster-Carr and they're like 7 bux for 10.
 
Sorry Klinetime, they weren't lying to you, but we did stop stocking those about a year ago (price stickers have embedded date code, kind of). Ordering is not available, I already looked up the part number and they are not available to us, at least under the number I had
 
Hey Richmond thanks for looking that up.

I have a new idea though :D Oil pan drain bolts they sell M14x1.5 but the head flange may be too large. I'll check tomorrow.

Also got oil in the engine and it stopped leaking! yay. Black RTV is my hero.

Hope to get this stuff together so I can drive this thing again
 
Got Air rail holes plugged, intake hole plugged, and vacuum lines redone.

For the Air Rail holes I used Oil drain plugs (M14x1.5) that we slightly modified :grinpimp:

Doorman Part Number 65230

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Here's how you do it:

First hack off the head of the bolt.

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Then use hacksaw to make flathead screwdriver slot. And file for more width.

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Make sure it's a good fit.

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Install with thread sealant.

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Now for the intake hole:

Found Equus part #9841.

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And some pictures of my Engine for good measure:

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Hope to start her tomorrow after we bleed the brakes, bleed the clutch, install fuel line, and I'm done with my Statistics Final.
 
Here are the ones that I got. 30mm long so that the head and socket would not interfere with the engine. I think your solution looks good, but not sure how easily you will be able to get them out if needed in the future...I guess it depends which thread lock you use.

91180A778L.GIF



What's left to do now?
 
Is this the correct piece to stick into the intake? I was thinking of putting an order in for one. It says BPSP....there is another option for BPST...is the intake parallel or tapered?

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4860K131L.GIF
 
wengejor, the second one is what you'd want. With the head on the first, you wouldn't be able to thread it in far enough into the head.
 
Okay so I got a few things to do before she'll run.

The engine is leaking 0 oil. I think I am gonna tap and plug my galley plug though.

Engine will build oil pressure but will not fire.

Got Weber Electric Choke hooked up, and still didn't fire.

Gonna need to replace Clutch Components. (master and slave) Leaky!

I have gas coming out of the top of my intake manifold where the carb sits.

Transmission will not go into reverse, and the car will not roll unless the clutch is pushed in (even in neutral), which I have no clue what the deal with that is. Help.

Any help ya'll can give I'll take it. Desperate to get the car running again.

Thanks
 
When you uninstalled the transmission, did you take the shifter off? If so, did you reinstall it in the same gear position as it was taken out?

Is the carb torqued down enough? Is there a gap in the gasket?
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
When you uninstalled the transmission, did you take the shifter off? If so, did you reinstall it in the same gear position as it was taken out?

Is the carb torqued down enough? Is there a gap in the gasket?
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Un-Installed and Installed in neutral. It will go in 1, 2, 3, 4 but not reverse.

It should be pretty tight.
 
Thanks for the help with the intake plug Kline & GLTH

Make sure you have the distributor inserted correctly. With cylinder 1 on compression stroke(check with finger over plug hole) the rotor on the dizzy should be pointed between #4 and #5 cyl. If you installed it 180deg out of phase then it won't run. Use a screwdriver & flashlight to align the oil pump slot correctly.

There is a better description of this in the FSM and the Haynes manual.
 
I will check the distributor tomorrow. Because I did have to remove the dist. to reseal the pushrod cover.

thanks!
 
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