That freeze out deal bites. Good luck with that one.
School is out, the fun begins. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter klinetime574
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That wouldn't float with me man. Are they angies listed? If so, they are even moreso accountable... how can you screw something up to pop a freeze plug? They come out when it freezes.
did a quick google search and this popped up:
Mount the new plug using either a correctly sized socket or seal driver as shown here. A small amount of sealant on the plug is a good idea
Rubber expansion plugs are available for emergency repairs, or if removal is easier than installation. Do not use sealant on rubber plugs.
Mount the new plug using either a correctly sized socket or seal driver as shown here. A small amount of sealant on the plug is a good idea
Rubber expansion plugs are available for emergency repairs, or if removal is easier than installation. Do not use sealant on rubber plugs.
- Thread starter
- #184
Thanks for that info wengejor.
What kind of sealant? I have read of people using red lock-tite.
And those silly expansion plugs won't work in the cruiser or at least the ones i had local. they are 1 7/8" holes and the plugs had to expand to their max to get that big. so you couldn't really get them in there.
What kind of sealant? I have read of people using red lock-tite.
And those silly expansion plugs won't work in the cruiser or at least the ones i had local. they are 1 7/8" holes and the plugs had to expand to their max to get that big. so you couldn't really get them in there.
I also found some threads where people said that red loc-tite was the best. Also, make sure the surfaces are really cleaned well and de-burred. But really...as the others have said...why not call up the shop and tell them to fix it?
- Thread starter
- #186
I'll try and call them but I don't know if that would be very time efficient. It would have to be towed to get there and then they would take at least a week to fix it. And I would also be risking the work that I have put into the car which is invaluable.
My brother was also suggesting draining the coolant and letting it dry out for a day, then squeezing some green loctite which is made to flow into gaps and seal them up. any opinions?
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #187
Went to the autostore with my dad today and we thought why not try some radiator stop leak in the coolant system because were gonna have to drain it anyway if it doesn't work.
Drove it around and let it run for the alotted time, and now it is cooling off in the garage. I dunno if it is supposed to seal instantly or it takes a cool down to get set and leakproof. Ya'll guys know?
Took some pictures of my exhaust since it was in good sunlight for once.
Dad checking PS fluid
The exhaust is nice and tight under the car and it's very hard to get a pic of. So here are some shots of where the exhaust exits.
Thanks!
Another quick question: What PSI are you guys running in your 33x10.5's?
Drove it around and let it run for the alotted time, and now it is cooling off in the garage. I dunno if it is supposed to seal instantly or it takes a cool down to get set and leakproof. Ya'll guys know?
Took some pictures of my exhaust since it was in good sunlight for once.
Dad checking PS fluid
The exhaust is nice and tight under the car and it's very hard to get a pic of. So here are some shots of where the exhaust exits.
Thanks!
Another quick question: What PSI are you guys running in your 33x10.5's?
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Looks awesome!
As for pressure, depends on whether or not you carry a lot of stuff, but 35 lbs is a good number.
As for pressure, depends on whether or not you carry a lot of stuff, but 35 lbs is a good number.
- Thread starter
- #189
Thanks GLTH I carry only these things:
35 sounds good to me.
35 sounds good to me.
Good lookin' subs...as far as my exhaust goes, theres isnt much of one at the moment *cough* running straight. 
-Carl
-Carl
- Thread starter
- #191
She is ALIVE 
I got the head re-torqued, and fixed the idle. Runs awesomes.
I think that cheesy stop leak for my freeze plugs is actually working! It slowed the leak the other day, and I got the rest in there tonight so we should be rockin.
Takin her to school tomorrow. Security guards are gonna stop me for no sticker but I don't care haha. They can
off. 
I actually am buying the sticker I just had to get the form signed tonight.
The only thing it likes to do is Diesel after shut-off. The carb still needs to be tweaked. I'll have to meet up with some Austin cruiser guys and maybe they can help me out.
I got the head re-torqued, and fixed the idle. Runs awesomes.
I think that cheesy stop leak for my freeze plugs is actually working! It slowed the leak the other day, and I got the rest in there tonight so we should be rockin.
Takin her to school tomorrow. Security guards are gonna stop me for no sticker but I don't care haha. They can
off. I actually am buying the sticker I just had to get the form signed tonight.The only thing it likes to do is Diesel after shut-off. The carb still needs to be tweaked. I'll have to meet up with some Austin cruiser guys and maybe they can help me out.
The Truck looks great.
I would check the timing, find any vacuum leaks, and lean out the carb. It's probably dumping in too much fuel.
38 DGAS Tunning
I'm sure you'll have it tuned up in no time.
I would check the timing, find any vacuum leaks, and lean out the carb. It's probably dumping in too much fuel.
38 DGAS Tunning
I'm sure you'll have it tuned up in no time.
- Thread starter
- #193
Thanks man.
I'll have to go back and start at baseline, because it was "tuned" with open headers. I have tweaked it a little sense then.
Thanks for the compliments!
I'll have to go back and start at baseline, because it was "tuned" with open headers. I have tweaked it a little sense then.
Thanks for the compliments!
- Thread starter
- #194
Small update:
Need to get a new timing light. Ours broke, which I have no clue how.
I need a new alternator. My gauge in the cruiser reads somewhere around 10 volts, and it used to be around 14. Can't use my stereo because it cuts out. Sound like a bad alternator to ya'll?
It is still way too rich. Is there any way to lower the amount of gas in the carb bowl? I have the mixture screws on the weber turned all the way in, and she's too rich. (That carb is too big for the 2F) The cruiser runs fine other than that.
Need to get a new timing light. Ours broke, which I have no clue how.
I need a new alternator. My gauge in the cruiser reads somewhere around 10 volts, and it used to be around 14. Can't use my stereo because it cuts out. Sound like a bad alternator to ya'll?
It is still way too rich. Is there any way to lower the amount of gas in the carb bowl? I have the mixture screws on the weber turned all the way in, and she's too rich. (That carb is too big for the 2F) The cruiser runs fine other than that.
Try a digital voltmeter on the alt, it will tell you what she's putting out and wether it's dying or your gauge is bad if you aren't sure.
As far as the Weber......Welcome to Weber desmog world my friend.
Mine always ran fat, but it ran pretty good. Could never get rid of the sooty tailpipe.
I would run the screws slowly in until she stumbled, then back them off a half if I remember correctly.
As far as the Weber......Welcome to Weber desmog world my friend.
Mine always ran fat, but it ran pretty good. Could never get rid of the sooty tailpipe.
I would run the screws slowly in until she stumbled, then back them off a half if I remember correctly.
Kline,
Check out some starter/alternator rebuilders in your area before buying a new alternator. I had ours rebuilt (new bearings, brushed, tri-diode ?) for about $55.
Being near I35, I would think that Belton or Kileeen should have something local. If not, Waco should have something for you, or Austin has Texas Alternator Starter Service, 9545 N I H 35.
I've enjoyed following your thread. Reminds me of a few rebuilds that I did in my past. Never got to put one on the stand like you did.
I have and '85 mini 4x4 that I'm saving for my sons. They are wanting to start driving, so I'm trying to get room in the garage to pull the 22R and put it on a stand so that they can help me work on it.
Keep up the good work.
Check out some starter/alternator rebuilders in your area before buying a new alternator. I had ours rebuilt (new bearings, brushed, tri-diode ?) for about $55.
Being near I35, I would think that Belton or Kileeen should have something local. If not, Waco should have something for you, or Austin has Texas Alternator Starter Service, 9545 N I H 35.
I've enjoyed following your thread. Reminds me of a few rebuilds that I did in my past. Never got to put one on the stand like you did.
I have and '85 mini 4x4 that I'm saving for my sons. They are wanting to start driving, so I'm trying to get room in the garage to pull the 22R and put it on a stand so that they can help me work on it.
Keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #198
Thanks for the words guys!
I have a vision of me switching back to the AISIN eventually because that sooty crap and the smell is plain awful. Two guys behind me today were coughing and waving their hands in front of their face. Just about the money on the AISIN though.
mkaustin thanks for the tip on the alternator. That mini truck sounds pretty nice you should have fun rebuilding it. I wish I would have started with a smaller engine. It would have been less devastating haha.
I have a vision of me switching back to the AISIN eventually because that sooty crap and the smell is plain awful. Two guys behind me today were coughing and waving their hands in front of their face. Just about the money on the AISIN though.
mkaustin thanks for the tip on the alternator. That mini truck sounds pretty nice you should have fun rebuilding it. I wish I would have started with a smaller engine. It would have been less devastating haha.
- Thread starter
- #199
Little Update:
Adjusted the valves today. Feels like a faster tractor.
Followed 2mbb's chart. Completely idiot proof. Thanks 2mbb
IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Valve adjustment done right?
Never done a valve adjustment before and it made a huge difference.
I need to look in to getting a non-vacuum advance distributor or a recurve by Jim C. Its impossible to set the timing at low RPM's currently. FSM says max 950. We can't get the BB in the window till 1250. Money money money...
I love my cruiser though
Later Guys!
Adjusted the valves today. Feels like a faster tractor.
Followed 2mbb's chart. Completely idiot proof. Thanks 2mbb
IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Valve adjustment done right?
Never done a valve adjustment before and it made a huge difference.
I need to look in to getting a non-vacuum advance distributor or a recurve by Jim C. Its impossible to set the timing at low RPM's currently. FSM says max 950. We can't get the BB in the window till 1250. Money money money...
I love my cruiser though
Later Guys!
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