School is out, the fun begins.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The port on top of the dist cap plugs into a VSV that clips onto the bottom of your stock air cleaner. It draws air through the dist to prevent any detonation of fumes inside the dist cap.
 
The port on top of the dist cap plugs into a VSV that clips onto the bottom of your stock air cleaner. It draws air through the dist to prevent any detonation of fumes inside the dist cap.

Hmm sounds pretty important. I wonder if I could somehow hook it up...

On the other hand, Would capping it bring ultimate death?
 
Hmm sounds pretty important. I wonder if I could somehow hook it up...

On the other hand, Would capping it bring ultimate death?

Your truck would explode in a giant flaming fireball if you didn't hook it up, :lol:

I hooked mine back up when I did my desmog.
 
Your truck would explode in a giant flaming fireball if you didn't hook it up, :lol:

I hooked mine back up when I did my desmog.

My real problem is though I won't be using the stock air cleaner anymore so where would it hook up?
 
That is a good question. That's due to the fact that you have a weber, right?

The idea is that it draws air through the dist, with a regulating valve to control when it draws air......

Let me run out to my truck to grab the emissions manual.
 
Behold my MS Paint skills:

This is what the circuit looks like, which is straight out of the 81 emissions manual. It appears that whenever the engine is on, the VCV valve is open, allowing the air to be drawn from the dist into the air filter, based on the VCV test. I'm not sure why that circuit would need to be closed, but there must be a reason.

Without an air filter to hook it up to, I'm not sure where you'd put it. You could put it onto the tube that comes out of the carb insulator, but you still wouldn't be able to run the VCV.
dist vent.webp
 
This is the exact reason why you should try to hook up the distributor cap vent system in a somewhat oem fashion and not cap the ports on the cap with Chinese made rubber caps........like I did.....:censor:

DSCN3348-vi.jpg
 
I could somehow tie it into the weber if I have enough ports
 
Looks like a good idea, even if it's consistent vacuum.
 
Well sounds like I'm removing the first one.
Plugging in the second one to the weber
and capping the ports on the dist.

Any takers on the random plug? :D

Oh and something else:

What does the smaller port on the distributor cap plug in to? (Sorry I don't have a pic of that)

The random plug?? Might just be a random plug. i have a few of those, just one of those things where the harness has a few vehicles its from and yours doesn't use that plug.
 
Got all the PVC/ Vacuum Lines hooked up. Tried to make it simple, and hook up things that make the most sense and are as close to OEM as possible.

IMG_4812.jpg


IMG_4807.jpg


IMG_4808.jpg


IMG_4809.jpg


What size bolt will fit in here?

IMG_4811.jpg


Thanks Guys!
 
Last edited:
That looks great! It reminds me of the days making VW Gti engines look cleaner, better, faster(not so much with a 60).
 
Do you have a vacuum line on the primary distributor advance? My truck doesn't run properly without it. Actually I just checked my setup and the secondary port on the distributor goes here:

SECONDARY_VACUUM.webp


Not sure if this is really correct, but it seems to run fine.

My primary port is connected to the base of the carb which I believe you have hooked up ok.
SECONDARY_VACUUM.webp
 
Last edited:
Do you have a vacuum line on the primary distributor advance? My truck doesn't run properly without it.

Yes I do. You can't see it because it snakes around the back of the engine with the larger lines.
 
The smaller port on that finned piece connects to the A/C idle up switch.

The (secondary) port on the distributor goes to the HAC.
 
Yeah, I know.

My P.O. had it hooked up like that with the HAC port to the A/C idle up port at the intake. I guess I have been driving around with a little more vacuum advance.

I un-hooked it and blocked the HAC and A/C ports and it seem to run the same but the idle did move down like 200 rpm.
 
That leads to another question.

I don't think I can ook up the A/C idle up switch so what do I do?
 
Idea! Get a hand throttle and pull it out enough to raise the idle when running the AC.
 
Back
Top Bottom