SBC vs 2F

[Mace]

Around 4000 rpms sustained.

A 40 with 4.11 and 31-in tires is only turning 3300 rpm at 75 mph. At 4k, the cruiser is doing 90. I'm going to call bs..

29-in tires takes that to 3500 rpm at 75..


Btw, I have pushed a bunch of f and 2f motors for extended periods at 3200 rpm's without issue..

 

[belaw]

If I was looking at bulding a SBC I would do a low compresion stroker with small intake runnes etc. for all bottom end grunt.

At the risk of hi-jacking an already wide-ranging thread... what's the benefit of low compression for "bottom end grunt?" What sort of compression ratio are you talking about?

 

[RockDoc]

Due to having a ECU with the 2F, I can get 6000 (don't do that for too long), but I can run about 80 at only 3500 (that's my read out when I plug in my laptop).

How many miles per rod do you get?

Do you have a build thread?

 

[Brian in Oregon]

A 40 with 4.11 and 31-in tires is only turning 3300 rpm at 75 mph. At 4k, the cruiser is doing 90. I'm going to call bs..

29-in tires takes that to 3500 rpm at 75..


Btw, I have pushed a bunch of f and 2f motors for extended periods at 3200 rpm's without issue..

Not what my tach says.

 

[Mace]

Not what my tach says.

Then turn it off of 4 cylinder....

Just for morbid curiosity... What does your tach say ( and include tire size and gear ratio)

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

these 2fs come in at what, 7.8:1 compression ratios? I hear a big armed dude can hand crank a 2F to start. I am also under the impression that these tractor motors are heavier than an SBC and they just don't have the cooling issue that a bigger motor has. IMO, of course

 

[Mace]

these 2fs come in at what, 7.8:1 compression ratios? I hear a big armed dude can hand crank a 2F to start. I am also under the impression that these tractor motors are heavier than an SBC and they just don't have the cooling issue that a bigger motor has. IMO, of course

Yes on all counts

 

[Pighead]

Even a skinny armed dude can hand crank an F or 2F to start...

 

[Orionfj60]

My book says 8.3 to 1...... I love my 2f so easy to work on. But some day I might build a monster... I'd say 5.3 vortec but carb it. You know keep it simple. Less wires the better.

 

[Bret]

At the risk of hi-jacking an already wide-ranging thread... what's the benefit of low compression for "bottom end grunt?" What sort of compression ratio are you talking about?

Low in the sense of low octane friendly. Not looking for max HP or torque numbers with a 14:1 aluminum headed beast. my apologies, did not mean to infer more torque from less compression.

 

['74 UA FJ]

Still too fast. The beauty of the F series is that they'll pull you up a rocky hill at 400 RPM...

My 350 will do the same. There is really no situation that my F was better at than my 350. I take that back. It was better at leaking oil.

My book says 8.3 to 1...... I love my 2f so easy to work on. But some day I might build a monster... I'd say 5.3 vortec but carb it. You know keep it simple. Less wires the better.

Why would you take the best part of a 5.3 vortec and throw it away? You must not wheel your cruiser if you actually want a carbureted engine.

 

[fj40charles]

My book says 8.3 to 1...... I love my 2f so easy to work on. But some day I might build a monster... I'd say 5.3 vortec but carb it. You know keep it simple. Less wires the better.

I'd much rather have a fuel injected engine over a carb. Much more reliable, better mileage, compensates for different altitudes, easy starting, etc., Just too may advantages over a carb'd engine.

 

[Mace]

I'd much rather have a fuel injected engine over a carb. Much more reliable, better mileage, compensates for different altitudes, easy starting, etc., Just too may advantages over a carb'd engine.

Absolutely..

 

[duffontap]

I've been just watching and learning here but I hope I can get answers to a couple questions from the SBC guys:

Let's say the 2F in my '77 DD (my only truck) finally goes and I'm stuck stealing the family car to get to work. I need to get back on the road relatively quickly but I decide to go SBC 350. I grab this kit from AA:

(P/N 713024-EK) | Advance Adapters

From what I understand, my shopping list would also include two drivelines, possibly a new radiator, all new exhaust, and a new clutch kit.

So far, it doesn't really seem terribly complicated. My questions are:

1. Where do you go for a good deal on a crate engine (used/excellent/TBI/complete)?
2. Are there any major things I'm forgetting that would slow the conversion down?
3. What would be a good guess on overall cost?

 

[toyotalandfj40]

I've been just watching and learning here but I hope I can get answers to a couple questions from the SBC guys:

Let's say the 2F in my '77 DD (my only truck) finally goes and I'm stuck stealing the family car to get to work. I need to get back on the road relatively quickly but I decide to go SBC 350. I grab this kit from AA:

(P/N 713024-EK) | Advance Adapters

From what I understand, my shopping list would also include two drivelines, possibly a new radiator, all new exhaust, and a new clutch kit.

So far, it doesn't really seem terribly complicated. My questions are:

1. Where do you go for a good deal on a crate engine (used/excellent/TBI/complete)?
2. Are there any major things I'm forgetting that would slow the conversion down?
3. What would be a good guess on overall cost?

Duffontap,

The simplest way would be to rebuild the 2F. But, for a V8, you could look into getting it out of another car, or buying a Turn-key crate engine if you don't want to do anything at all. Go with GM Performance and shop around for a nice new V8 with all the wiring, and preferrably fuel injection.

http://store.gmperformanceparts.com/store/Welcome.do (It's rather pricey to buy from here, but they're new. Check eBay or used car lots for other options)

Depending on how hard you push it, you'll want to beef up the drivetrain, transfercase would be a good investment in, along with a Dana 44/60 in the front if you plan to do anything crazy with it. Also, welding of new motor mounts for the V8, along with a new mount for the radiator, some place to bolt the ECU. You need to change the radiator lines so you still have a heater in your car. gas lines possibly, fuel pump (in-line). A new skid plate, if the exhausts get in the way (just give it a few hits to make space)

This is roughly, what it would take to get a V8, I was in this boat when I got my FJ40 4 years ago. It seemed rather more expensive, and there was a lot needed to do. (Also recommend a GREAT mechanic, if you're mechanically declined)

That's the list and breakdown.....roughly, and I'm sure a V8 expert on this thread can add to that. (That's a yes to what you have as well.)

The only thing to slow you down is getting the 760lb 2F out of it, clearing, measuring, and then prepping before anything. A good prep should make it easier, and make sure you have everything, waiting for parts is what can possibly slow it down easily. And best thing to do, have the engine running before you put it in, so you don't have to hassle with wiring. Also, a thickening of the firewall would be a good idea as well. This...could possibly be more than a weekend sorta thing if done wrong, but can take only a weekend if everything is there and ready to go. (Along with having a buddy to help you.)

Or can simply lift the car, do a good rebuild of the 2F, put it back together, check the transfercase, check the transmission, and be done with it. And possibly spend some money on a nice H55F for the 2F so you can do highway. I did a TBI for my 2F, been good to me, takes a second to start, very reliable, and soon to have the pertronix for the distributor. Will do a build thread for it, so other may see how to do it with an average FJ40, near stock.

Best Regards,

Ian

 

['74 UA FJ]

A dana 44 front would be pointless. Why a "thickening of the firewall?"

 

[hicruise55]

A dana 44 front would be pointless. Why a "thickening of the firewall?"

My thoughts exactly!?

 

[toyotalandfj40]

That's what a guy in my TLC club around here told me to do if I was to do wheeling still with the V8, don't want to shatter a birfield, but you could get those Longfields. Also, more of heat blocking from the exhaust for the firewall thickening, that was another word of advice from the same guy. Only saying what I've been advised to do if doing a V8.

And I meant rear, but he also said to just swap for a dana 44 front and back, with a locker in the rear.

 

['74 UA FJ]

That's what a guy in my TLC club around here told me to do if I was to do wheeling still with the V8, don't want to shatter a birfield, but you could get those Longfields. Also, more of heat blocking from the exhaust for the firewall thickening, that was another word of advice from the same guy. Only saying what I've been advised to do if doing a V8.

And I meant rear, but he also said to just swap for a dana 44 front and back, with a locker in the rear.

I wouldn't put much stock in what he tells you. A Landcruiser front with longfields is going to be much stronger than a stock dana 44. If you want to run 40" or larger tires, you should probably go with a dana 60 front and 14bolt or other heavy duty rear.

 

[toyotalandfj40]

Okay, thanks. Now need to find another 40. Though may go the large diesel route on that one.

And other than my few mistakes, was my info correct? That was just what I recalled when planning to do anything with my current 40.