Builds Ryan’s 40 AKA "Bandit"

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One last post for today...

I ordered brand new wheel cylinders and shoes for my front brakes. I really wanted to convert to disc - and I will eventually - but budget and other priorities are keeping me from that for now.

I think I'm going to go ahead and order new springs and shocks so I only have to do the alignment once (for now). I'm considering either the Redline Land Cruisers 2.5 inch kit or doing Dobinsons springs with Bilsten shocks.
 
Before you buy lift springs, take some measurements and make sure the truck still fits in your garage
 
Alright everyone - I'm in the process of ordering the parts for my lift. I ordered my shocks and am going with either a Dobinsons leaf kit or Pro Comp. Those kits will give me 2-2.5" of lift. I understand I may need extended brake lines. I'm only seeing extended rear brake lines from the frame to the axle housing. Is that all I need? Just one extended line?
 
FWIW get the Dobinsons and you should have/need a line for the front too.
 
The older 9mm lines are gone, gotta use the newer stuff and change fittings such as flare nuts & junction blocks, not a huge PITA. I would check with Kurt ( Cruiser Outfitters ) they may have a conversion line or adapters. If I dont buy from them I call Georg or Rork at Valley Hybrids. What year i sthe 40 ? need to determine if you have the 9mm stuff or the 10mm, the 10mm is the newer stuff, which I believe changed on the 40 from 9mm to 10mm brake hardware in late 70 production.
 
The older 9mm lines are gone, gotta use the newer stuff and change fittings such as flare nuts & junction blocks, not a huge PITA. I would check with Kurt ( Cruiser Outfitters ) they may have a conversion line or adapters. If I dont buy from them I call Georg or Rork at Valley Hybrids. What year i sthe 40 ? need to determine if you have the 9mm stuff or the 10mm, the 10mm is the newer stuff, which I believe changed on the 40 from 9mm to 10mm brake hardware in late 70 production.
Mine's a 72 so I think I have the 9mm fittings.
 
Opposite, you should have 10mm stuff. I am not sure but I think its the same soft line front and rear that drops from frame to axle.
 
My budget is getting a little tight so I'm now considering keeping my stock leaf springs but adding extended shackles to get a little lift for now. Anyone with experience doing this? Pros/cons? If you're running extended shackles, where did you get them from and did you do the same size on front and rear?
 
You may get a bit of lift but the ride quality may be harsh as the longer shackles will put the shackle angle straight up & down usually. Poke around in the classifieds you may find some lift springs reasonable.
 
I’m getting the knuckles put back together and I’m a little stumped. This gasket is supposed to go on the spindle, but then there’s no way the backing plate will fit over it.


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I believe that goes on the other side of the backing plate. Part 10
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I got the knuckles rebuilt a few days ago. I ended up ordering new extended brake lines seeing as I'm planning on doing a lift in the future. Brakes should be done this weekend and then I'm back on 4 wheels!

I also ended up ordering 31" Yokohama Geolander M/T's. Yokohama's were my first choice, but I really wanted a 33" tire. I know 33's will fit with my stock suspension, but I didn't want to mess around with any rubbing. Plus, I didn't mind the look of 31's with a 2" lift, so I went for it.

Hopefully in a little over a week, I'll be driving this thing until it gets cold. My goal was to be able to drive it on my birthday which is coming up in early September. I think I'm going to reach my first goal.

I love this 40! Even though I can't wait to get it back on the road, there are other very important things to address, such as the leaks and rear diff. I'm exploring options for those items in the winter when I won't be driving it anyway.

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I've run into a documentation mistake I made. I took the tie rods off to replace the TREs. Now that I'm bolting everything back up, I can't remember the orientation for putting everything back together. I know the TRE with the eyelet goes on the passenger side. As for the other rod (the shorther one) does the TRE with the left hand thread mate up to the eyelet on the passenger side or does it go to on the driver's side?
 
You probably have one of these:

steering.jpg


I don't think it matters which end of the rod is on which side. Lay out your end links. The passenger side tie-rod will only fit one end on the passenger side fitting. Don't remember if right or left hand threaded because you'll need the correct (opposite threaded) tie-rod end on the drivers side. It's the same with the relay rod, right hand thread on one end and left on the other.

If you didn't write down what your previous measurements were for how far in/out the ends were, then start with them threaded all the way in. Then assemble and adjust to get things where they belong. Also, don't remember if there is a thread size difference between rod ends.
 
You probably have one of these:

View attachment 3410972

I don't think it matters which end of the rod is on which side. Lay out your end links. The passenger side tie-rod will only fit one end on the passenger side fitting. Don't remember if right or left hand threaded because you'll need the correct (opposite threaded) tie-rod end on the drivers side. It's the same with the relay rod, right hand thread on one end and left on the other.

If you didn't write down what your previous measurements were for how far in/out the ends were, then start with them threaded all the way in. Then assemble and adjust to get things where they belong. Also, don't remember if there is a thread size difference between rod ends.
Thank you! I marked overall measurements by laying it out on a 2x4. My steering was very sloppy before so I'm assuming it might take some adjustment even at the length they were before.
 
Screw it. I saw some other posts with 33 inch tires on stock suspension so I cancelled my 31's and ordered 33" Kenda Klever RT's. I have these on my Tundra and love them. I hesitated on these because they used to be $194/tire a few months ago. I bit the bullet and paid $264 tire. It's only money, right?

Plus, the lift will hopefully only be out a month or two and then I'll have the clearance I need anyway. I'll keep it on the streets until then.
 

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