I think these look fine, but would welcome any thoughts!
Rust Check
- Thread starter AL100Enthusiast
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- #2
One more
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- #4
Thank you. What would be your approach to cleaning?
i dont see any rust. seriously. that thing is clean enough to eat off of
Agreed. Are you trying to show off how clean those Southern rigs are 
? We'd kill for that anywhere to the north.
Regarding cleanup, I'd just buy a few cans of Woolwax or Fluid Film Black and hit up the rusty areas every few years. That will stop the rust with a higher level of success than paint, and be much easier from a labor perspective.
? We'd kill for that anywhere to the north. Regarding cleanup, I'd just buy a few cans of Woolwax or Fluid Film Black and hit up the rusty areas every few years. That will stop the rust with a higher level of success than paint, and be much easier from a labor perspective.
Easiest and most efficient method is to use a light weight needle gun to knock the scale off, then kill the oxidation with a rust reformer primer, then top coat with an enamel paint. If you do not have access to an air compressor... a coarse wire wheel on a cordless/corded drill, then follow with a finer wire wheel, hand sand with a coarse scuff pad, rust reformer primer and paint. If the muffler is not perforated, (replace if so...) scuff pad and HIGH HEAT paint top coat.
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- #8
I don't see anything except for some coloring that might be rust on the rear diff. Maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me.
Will see it on Monday.
Looks very nice to my eyes. Any discoloration I noticed would be expected and not alarming.
For cleaning chassis, I've had a surprisingly good result with a mix of degreaser, Murphy's oil soap, and a little bit of foaming car soap in a pump foam sprayer. A little agitation and hit with a pressure washer. My 300k+ mile truck cleaned up nicely.
For cleaning chassis, I've had a surprisingly good result with a mix of degreaser, Murphy's oil soap, and a little bit of foaming car soap in a pump foam sprayer. A little agitation and hit with a pressure washer. My 300k+ mile truck cleaned up nicely.
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- #10
Thank you! This one is a 2007 with 230k. Excited to grab it.
I’m going to be super critical here to say that the pictures wash out any definition of the frame. Is there surface rust? Is there a scale? Is there paint or undercoating? A clean frame looks clean… to say my truck that is rust free looks different than those pics. Can you get a clear non-washed out picture of the rear crossmember that rusts? close up pics without wash are what I would need. I might be suspicious if that was not provided…
Good luck!
Good luck!
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That’s totally fair. I think there’s at least some surface rust on rear crossmember. Will see in person on Monday.
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- #13
If you live somewhere that it won't rust, I personally wouldn't touch it.
If you live somewhere it's going to be rusty anyways, go for it.
If you live somewhere it's going to be rusty anyways, go for it.
Simply surface oxidation... an easy clean up with a rust dissolver, primer and enamel paint...
In boston, sure
The average Massachusetts vehicle:
Out here in the desert, nothing rusts. So, if i’m buying a vehicle and it has even a tiny bit of rust, it’s a hard no.
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HA ha ha!!! That looks like some of the cars that used to be on the roads up here... before the RMV got serious about the yearly State inspections!
Please let me know about any AZ "rust buckets" you come across... I may have to make a road trip!
Nope, i prefer to keep our rust free AZ rigs in AZ to live a long and happy life instead of an unavoidable rusty death in the north east.
Yearly inspections? Lol.