Rth. I’m stranded (1 Viewer)

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Stuck outside Jackson tn. 1995 fzj80 The 80 was running fine for 5 hours of driving, it sputtered and died. Coasted to a safe location and trouble shot it. Had no cel so I checked the small fuseable link. It was broken. I twisted the two ends together snd it started but immediately popped.

I’m gonna catch a ride and order one but my question is, what does the small fuseable link control. The one with the plug in, not the ones that bolts to the box.

Im almost 6 hours from home and would like to find the reason it blew so I can make it back home.

also, the low beam lights have quit working but the high beams work fine. Any ideas?

thanks in advance
 
I'll PM you my phone # and we can solve it vs typing endlessly.

Here's the FAQ on trail side electrical troubleshooting, that might help in this instance.


Ali
 
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here's the page on the fusible links. Please tell us which fusible link keeps blowing, and we can see which sub systems might be at fault.

Headlamps are powered by FL MAIN 2.0L

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I think that one is for the ignition stuff.
I'd start by looking at your hot egr pipe if you still have that.
 
Egr is gone. Has been for many years. It’s the small one. It’s pink and has a connector. It’s not one of the two that go to the junction block.
 
We made contact and doing some troubleshooting. Unfortunately, he has to travel into a cell range, make calls, download texts, then travel back to the 80. I've texted him the pertinent EWD pages for him to refer to while Dxing.

He has no CEL light coming on.

From what I can ascertain, he is blowing the AM2 fusible link which serves:
  • a fuse block (7.5a IGN, 10a Gauge, 10a Stop),
  • all six injectors, Igniter,
  • the Ignition coil.
  • Circuit opening relay
He is going to use a DVM to see if there's a direct short to ground on the AM2 fusible link. Some of you might recall, that the fuel pump assembly can cause a direct short to ground by chafing the wire inside the fuel tank against the fuel pump assembly bracket. I suggested this *might* be happening.
 
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Based on it "sputtered and died" I would say you may have a good indication that the fuel pump quit and it ran until it lost fuel pressure.

FWIW.
 
If the fuel pump was shorting, the 15 amp EFI fuse would go before the 30 amp AM2 fusible link.
AM2 does not supply the +12 to the fuel pump. However, it does supply the logic side of the circuit opening relay, but that is through the 7.5 amp IGN fuse.
This sounds like a short in the engine harness to me. Injectors, coil, igniter, etc. Those items do not have any other fuses other than AM2.
 
Did some more troubleshooting. Can’t find a bare wire or short. BUT. BOTH sides of the low beam connector have 12v when the headlight low beam switch is on. The lows don’t work but the highs do.

ive ordered a new fusible link. It’ll be here in the morning. I used a wire in place of the burnt fusible link and it runs fine. I still wanna know what caused it to blow as I’ve got a 6ht drive back home and don’t want it popping in a major city on the interstate in the rain.
 
BOTH sides of the low beam connector have 12v when the headlight low beam switch is on.
If you're checking voltage with the bulbs plugged in, then you're reading across the bulb filaments. Keep in mind that both low beams are connected on the ground side, so you need to unplug BOTH low beam bulbs to verify ground.
 
I’m checking them unplugged. I can verify ground and then when I switch the lights on it reads 12v
 
Full tank, factory hold down
 
I’m checking them unplugged. I can verify ground and then when I switch the lights on it reads 12v
To be clear, you have to unplug BOTH low beam bubs at the same time. You can't have 1 plugged in and test the opposite one as you'll be seeing the +12 through the filament of the opposite bulb.
Low beam grounds are the white/black stripe wires. They run to hard ground points on both sides of the engine bay.
Is it possible you're testing the high beams?
 
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Yes. Both unplugged. Ring out ground, turn on switch, same pin goes to 12v
 
Yes. Both unplugged. Ring out ground, turn on switch, same pin goes to 12v
Not physically possible. The white/black stripe wires have no way of getting +12 with both bulbs removed.
If there was a short in one of the headlamp harnesses the fuse would blow as soon as the relay closed.

Headlight.JPG
 
Then how is it reading 12v. I’ll go mess with it again. Headlamp bulbs are good but I don’t have headlights.
 
Do you have LED lamps anywhere?
Try pulling the TAIL LAMP fuse by the driver's left knee.
The parking lamps share a ground with the low beams and they might be backfeeding +12 to that ground somehow.
 

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