roofrack mounted solar shower

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I've heard of the copper or SS tubing around the Exhaust and by heard I mean heard it for miles. Think of how loud a little heat shield clamp is vibrating on your exhaust. Good in theory but if your not going to braze the tube to your exhaust I would think your going to run into problems.

I have never heard of the ABS having small air pockets in it vs. PVC. In all honesty I don't use much of the ABS, but I work with both every single day and have never noticed any pockets. I just did a product tests on some 2 1/2" flexible PVC and failed it for some flaws in workmanship. What if you used a long 3" aluminum tube powdercoated black. You would have much better heat transfer. Even SS. The best would be some Vacuum tubes, but that probably wouldn't last long boncing around on the rig. Maybe a 4" Acrylic tube over a 3" black tube to insulate the water from the road wind, but still get the sun to heat.
 
I guess it is all a matter of design vs function. IF you think about it (and want to stick to a DIY solution)
Good: is a regular REI shower bladder
Better: SS bug sprayer that you can heat up on top of your stove
Best: the design on this thread.

I went with better and made mine out of a SS bug sprayer. 2 gallons capacity good for a couple of showers and to assist in the washing dishes after a meal time.
 
KayakPanic said:
p.s. If you had an actual hot water tank, you could heat your water while wheeling, thus lowering the environmental guilt factor!
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Something like Marine Water Heaters - Boat Water Heater - 110-120 Volt Water Heaters - SailorSams.com . The kicker is they get the water so hot, 160-200F, that you need to mix it with cool water to use it. On the other hand this usually means 5 gallons produces 7 to 10 gallons of shower temp water when mixed with cold water. It also means you need a pressure pump and a supply tank. The supply tank provides replacement water in the IsoTamp tank as well as cold water to mix with the hot water. I was tempted to go that way, but the space it takes up is a bit much. It would also be possible to make your own tank like the IsoTemp ones. Then use a jerry can to mix shower and washing temp water.

My current thought is to make an insulated hot water tank somewhere below the floor. Have a pressurizing system. Something like an air pressure regulator set to 40PSI. Air would come from the ARB air locker pressure system. The output would be piped to a hot water faucet which would deliver scalding hot water. Showers would need to use externally mixed water.
 
I hijacked Corey's thread a few months back. The idea is based on a Stainless Steel fire extingusher. I removed the existing short hose and added a SS dishwasher connecter hose and then a sink sprayer unit. The tank itself has an outlet to charge air into the tank...I just hooked up my small 12v compressor and ran it up to about 40 psi. I thought with around 9' of hose I would leave it outside of the shower tent.

It ran for a good 90 secs. before it needed to be recharged, plenty of time to soak, wash and rinse. My first try I'd say I had 2 1/2 gallons, next time I'll keep the water down, say to 2 gallons, so it allows a bit more headroom for air pressure

The plan is to heat it on the stove, but I may design a stand when I borrow my buddies welder again and heat it with a 1lb. bottle and a screw on stove I picked up a yard sale.

Update: Used it to date 3 times...takes about 10 mins on the stove to warm up nicely. Very simple, cheap, and pratical.

NOTE: The handle had to be velcroed "together" to allow the water to flow...although it's not in these pics.
shr1.webp
shr2.webp
 
This would be a good sprayer for shower use.
Solo 3-gallon Handheld Sprayer - GEMPLER'S

Don't know how the tank would hold up to high temperature water, but it should handle 120F water fine. I think we have the 2.5 gallon version of this at the farm.
 
SOCALFJ said:
Nice extinguisher.. thats the reason we like our glorified bug sprayer (zodi extreme) .. it's practical and simple and can never really break down. As long as you have water and a hand to pump it , you're good to go.
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That was my big draw Dave...an even better reason for the Zodi...no major electrical componets

Of course..you always have the best (tuff-tested) stuff !! :beer:
 
latinoguy said:
I guess it is all a matter of design vs function. IF you think about it (and want to stick to a DIY solution)
Good: is a regular REI shower bladder
Better: SS bug sprayer that you can heat up on top of your stove
Best: the design on this thread.
Click to expand...

I guess there is one other classification. Thats the Ultimate shower.

All you have to do once set up is start the cruiser and turn a knob. Hot and cold how ever you like it. 3.5 gallons of water a minute. No water savers in that shower head. Will heat ice water up to 100 degrees all day long. 5 degrees? hehh.

Best yet there are no fancy instructions for your friends. Except turn the key and turn the knobs. Also can go from nice and warm to and easy nice and cold at the turn of a knob.

Floormats from the cruiser provide the floor of the shower. The fender is the soap dish. A 2 dollar tarp makes the shower curtain. It can pump water up a 15 ft rise and 150 ft in length all day long.

There is something to be said about roughing it. Leave that to the backpackers. If you want a shower might as well do something nice. You are driving a Land Cruiser by the way.

1247921-IMG_6087.jpg
 
Trollhole said:
I guess there is one other classification. Thats the Ultimate shower.

All you have to do once set up is start the cruiser and turn a knob. Hot and cold how ever you like it. 3.5 gallons of water a minute. No water savers in that shower head. Will heat ice water up to 100 degrees all day long. 5 degrees? hehh.

Best yet there are no fancy instructions for your friends. Except turn the key and turn the knobs. Also can go from nice and warm to and easy nice and cold at the turn of a knob.

Floormats from the cruiser provide the floor of the shower. The fender is the soap dish. A 2 dollar tarp makes the shower curtain. It can pump water up a 15 ft rise and 150 ft in length all day long.

There is something to be said about roughing it. Leave that to the backpackers. If you want a shower might as well do something nice. You are driving a Land Cruiser by the way.

1247921-IMG_6087.jpg
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Lets see a picture of your HX. IMO all your gain comes from the design or lack of in your HX. I had one one my 40 and traded it for carpentry labor. It had very poor rise. There was one at Rubithon this year, same very low rise accross the HX even with 180 degree radiator water.

Anyone getting a rise like you claim seems to have nailed the HX design. Lets see what you have.
 
The only issue I see with brazed plate heat exchangers is the inability to get all the water out. That's what compressed air or RV antifreeze is for.:D
 
back to what i posted earlier, and to Tltaylor22: it could (and will) be done without having any contact with the exhaust system.

By wrapping the copper tubing around the exhaust system and leaving, say, and inch b/t the tailpipe and the copper tubing on the inside, there will be plenty of heat for the water. The clamps would be attached above the exhaust, not to the exhaust.

don't be so quick to negatively judge an idea...but thanks for reminding me to not touch the exhaust with the copper tubing! part of my reason for being set on this type of shower is because:

A & B) solar showers suck and so do the exceptionally hot, quick water heaters that attach to the battery: neither have enough water pressure for me...

C) I will be able to make my own cheaper than anything else on the market, and most likely better as well...

D) I would rather have an expedition mod on my vehicle that i designed and built, because it will give me more satisfaction out of that hot shower everytime I use it! Rather than buying some other exceptionally expensive shower that just sits, unused, on the "expedition" Landcruiser that mostly goes on garage expeditions most of the year...
 
Bogo said:
The only issue I see with brazed plate heat exchangers is the inability to get all the water out. That's what compressed air or RV antifreeze is for.:D
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Never had an issue with it even if it did freeze. Just ran the pump dry and waited till next time.
 
Here is a review of 20 liter engine coolant heated tank style of water heater. It is a few years old and some of the units may have changed designs. They hack open the units and show you what is inside. Very handy if you wish to do one yourself.

http://www.indelmarineusa.com/pdf/Depliant_GB.pdf

The review was translated and posted to the web by the makers of the IsoTemp units. It was originally done by a Norwegian boating magazine. They bench tested all the units and provide data. Details of the translation are on the first page.

I've always liked this style of water heater for RV use except it is maybe a bit large for cruiser use.
 
from Road Shower

NLXTACY said:
Thats interesting. I guess its not THAT bad of a price for something you could make yourself with a few hours.......
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You might be able to make pipe that holds and sprays water, in a few hours. However, Road Shower uses uv resistant acrylic which has a black coating on the inside, to collect the heat from the sun. This 2' length of acrylic alone costs $30 (Acrylic Extruded Tubing, Heavy Duty - US Plastic Corporation) and you have to buy it in 6' lengths = $78+S&H item 44558).

If you just use pvc it will not heat the water well at all, as you can see from posts below.

We use 4" abs which insulates the heated water, so the shower retains the heat.

If you don't want to tie your shower to your rack, you need the Yakima mounting system. (Yakima 39-1/2 Inch Viper Bike Tray - 8820149 Spare Part / Replacement Part) The tray alone is $30 and the bolts and hex nuts are $9.

There are about 30 other parts involved. If you have all of these parts and know exactly how to make one, it will take you about 6-8 hours not counting the trips to the hardware store.(see post below). There are some trade secrets which will be hard to figure out.

The Road Shower heats the water to about 100 degrees on a sunny day, and it stays on your rack....no matter what 4WD trail you are on.

You can use a bike pump instead of CO2 cartridges...which works great too.

Thanks for listening and have fun.
 
I wonder what adhesive/glue/cement is used to bond the ABS to the acrylic.
 
I just got my Roadshower this week

It came in 2 boxes and in perfect shape. I am just waiting for my Yakima Railgrabbers to get here. Joel at Roadshowers beat the Yakima guys by 4 days shipping and they were ordered the same day. Oh well. I have put it together and the kids have had a shower in the front yard once. They loved it and it does spray about 10'. A great product. I will be posting pictures as soon as I get the Yakima stuff. It is not as simple as one would think. the welds between the black pipe and the acrylic are top rate and it holds pressure for a while and just does not leak.
 
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