Roof Rack Paint

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Powder coat

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I am in the process of refinishing my OEM roof rack and just found this thread, figured I would add my experience so far.

Fully disassembled everything down to the bolts and screws. I found it pretty easy to take the bolt covers/towers off using a pry tool and a screwdriver. Key was to just go slow, work in the sun so the plastic isn’t brittle and canflex a little. Torx 40, 25, and 15 will took care of the screws and bolts. The metal rails and bars are getting powder coated at a local shop - I decided to do a texture and color match to my newer, beefier Yakima bars which will replace the existing ones. I know it seems excessive but I’m also powder coating the OEM bars since it was relatively cheap to add them in. $135 for powder coating the four metal pieces - I didn’t shop around just went with a place that does a lot of automotive work.

The plastic pieces in my case were very badly oxidized from the years of sun exposure. I’m sanding them down with a maroon scrub pad and some 320 grit to get rid of the oxidization. I’m debating whether I leave them unfinished and just use a trim restorer like Solution Finish, or paint them with a similar black and satin clear.

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I am in the process of refinishing my OEM roof rack and just found this thread, figured I would add my experience so far.

Fully disassembled everything down to the bolts and screws. I found it pretty easy to take the bolt covers/towers off using a pry tool and a screwdriver. Key was to just go slow, work in the sun so the plastic isn’t brittle and canflex a little. Torx 40, 25, and 15 will took care of the screws and bolts. The metal rails and bars are getting powder coated at a local shop - I decided to do a texture and color match to my newer, beefier Yakima bars which will replace the existing ones. I know it seems excessive but I’m also powder coating the OEM bars since it was relatively cheap to add them in. $135 for powder coating the four metal pieces - I didn’t shop around just went with a place that does a lot of automotive work.

The plastic pieces in my case were very badly oxidized from the years of sun exposure. I’m sanding them down with a maroon scrub pad and some 320 grit to get rid of the oxidization. I’m debating whether I leave them unfinished and just use a trim restorer like Solution Finish, or paint them with a similar black and satin clear.

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Do you have any pictures of how the powder coating turned out?
 
I did a full disassemble and repaint. The 4 aluminum rails went to my local powder coat shop. $150 for sand blast and powder coat with flat black.

For the rubber boots, I used flat black plasti dip. For the remaining plastic components, I used Rust-Oleum professional flat black.

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I used paint stripper on my 2000 model to remove the peeling paint and polished the aluminum a bit. Looks plenty good for me.
 
I sanded my down then hit it with some wheel paint, charcoal graphite metallic. Then I cleared it with 2K clear coat, a single can clear both racks and bars. Looks real good now, I’ll post pics when I get home. 2K clear is expensive. $22 a can but it’s as close to autobody quality as you’ll get in a can.
Did you get the 2k high gloss or the matte finish? I have matte black paint but wasn’t sure how this would turn out with the high gloss finish vs matte finish. Thanks
 
I refinished mine with SprayMax 2K hot rod satin black. The advantage (beside being a tough 2-part urethane) is that it does not require clear coat and the satin finish is a great look. A little more sheen than flat, so it hides minor scratches well. I used it on both the aluminum and the plastic parts, but I hit the plastic with adhesion promoter.
 
Oh and to avoid pesky water leaks I used neoprene washers and some bathroom silicone. Probably one or the other would suffice but just playing it safe.

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Would not recommend.

The way those bolts work, the shoulder with the white rubbery sleeve needs to bear all the way down on the roof. By adding a washer you prevent that, and you’re unable to torque them properly because there is no hard stop. The FSM calls for just a small schmear of butyl sealant on the upper part of the threads.

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The white sleeve should be just a little longer than the bolt shoulder so that it traps some of the butyl sealant as you screw down the bolt. The sleeve forms a dam around the threaded hole that helps keep the sealant in place. The sleeve also cushions the roof rack mounts, though it does not seal the through-hole in the rack.

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