Roof Rack Paint (1 Viewer)

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Issaquah, WA
All -

After searching through the FAQs and also searching in general, I wasn't able to find the exact answer I'm looking for on this one. Given how much content is on this site I'm guessing I'm still missing it somehow, apologies.

Pretty straightforward - looking for comments/suggestions/best ideas to repaint my factory roof rack. I have the classic problem (I've seen this on many hundy roofs) where the weather exposure has stripped the top of the rails down to metal (see pic). I'm ideally looking for a cheap/inexpensive DIY solution that will set me straight and get things back in black. Or if the solution is to remove the rack and take it into a paint shop I'm open to that as well. Ultimately wanting to understand the cost/benefit to both of these outcomes. I"m sure a paint shop could do a better job, but not sure how much I care given the rack is on the roof and out of sight/mind more or less. If it matters my hundy is also black.

Thanks!

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Plasti-Dip. Done.
Thanks @Spike555 - my understanding of plast-dip is that it peels relatively easily. I will be using the rack (we ski and will likely be getting a box in the near future), so if it does peel I will be back in the same position soon. I think?
 
No, Plasti-Dip is very strong and the longer it is on the harder it is to get off.
You could instead use spray on truck bed liner. That will be more durable from the get go.
 
I sanded my down then hit it with some wheel paint, charcoal graphite metallic. Then I cleared it with 2K clear coat, a single can clear both racks and bars. Looks real good now, I’ll post pics when I get home. 2K clear is expensive. $22 a can but it’s as close to autobody quality as you’ll get in a can.
 
Here's a pic of what my roof rack paint and 2K 2 stage clear looks like, it's a lot shinier in person and feels like automotive paint.

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Make sure after you remove the bolts from the rack, is to apply some silicone to the screws so that rain water doesn't get into it. Prep it well with sandpaper and clean with alcohol before paint. that 2K clear is very hazardous so have a good mask and/or paint it outdoor with ventilation, it cures in about a day at 70 degrees then you can reinstall the rack.
 
Thanks @FxFormat -

That looks great, nice work and exactly the solution I was hoping for. A few additional questions:

1. What grit sandpaper did you use/would you recc?
2. Could you send a link to the silicone product that you suggest? I'm not super savvy on this stuff, can use all the hand holding you can offer haha...
3. Looks like you did this for both the main/anchor rails on the sides as well as the 2 cross members, just confirming?
4. Did you have to treat any rust on the roof after removing the rack? If so, what was your method?
5. How did you get the carbon fiber roof, that also looks pretty legit!?
 
I started sanding the rack with 180 grit, to get all the gunk and flaky paint off, then i hit it with 320 grit and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and just shot it with 3 coats of paint after it dried. I waited 5 minutes between each coat, ambient temp was 78 and sunny that day so it was drying quick. Then after the 3rd coat i waited 30 minute and applied the clear, 3 coats of that, 5 minutes in between coats then let it dry over night.

Yeah i painted the cross member and the rack, it's mostly for looks i barely use it except for loading my kayak.

When i removed the rack there were a few rusty spot, i hit it with a paint stripper wheel attached to my drill until it got to bare metal and then i treated it with rustoleum primer sealer and just shot some paint on top after.

I used this silicone, Ge Window and Door Sealant, 2.8 oz, Clear GE500 | Zoro.com

you can find it at home depot under the calking section near the spray paint area.

My carbon fiber roof is a fraud, lol, it's just a vinyl wrap i applied to hide the peeling clear coat or lack thereof. I wrapped my entire truck, link to the thread here

Wrapping my LC in Satin White Pearl
 
@FxFormat - believe it or not I'm just now getting around to this project, a year later haha.

I have one last question - is this 2k/paint combined product a good idea, or is it best to do the 2 coats of paint and then a final coat of 2k?

Was just thinking that if there was no difference it would be that much easier to go with the 2 in 1 product:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186NI7L...colid=LNEV426OMAZT&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


I'd skip that part and choose your cheaper Duplicolor of choice then clear it with the 2K clear, that clear with hardener is what seals in the paint and keep it from chipping.
 
Thanks @FxFormat -

One more - so i bought an LC rack off craigslist because my rack was missing one of the cross beam screws.

So i paid $20 for a screw, but thought it was worth it because you can't get the screw and now I have extras.

I've noticed that the rack I bought has three footings per side (front, middle, rear), while mine has 2 on each side (front, rear).

if you were me, which one would you go with? Does the additional footing give me much benefit? Just seems like better weight distribution across the rack, which claims according to the factory sticker that it has a max load of 150 lbs.

I know I'm really splitting hairs here, but its all about the details right?
 
@TidalVA -

Sorry for the delay, forgot to check in for a couple weeks. Below! A couple of quick thoughts:

1. @FxFormat was right on with the wheel paint/2k combo. I've really enjoyed the outcome, and the matte finish is perfect. Not shiny at all, but still looks good, which is what I was hoping for. My goal was for the rack to just have a uniform black appearance.

2. That said - I did the painting quick, probably too quick. So I have some 'drips' that dried in place because I wasn't paying close enough attention to how much product I was spraying. One can of wheel paint and one can of 2k was plenty for the entire rack. @FxFormat has a better end result compared to mine. Mine hides better because its black, which kinda saved me.

3. My only additional suggestion would be to start with an even lower grit (one step grittier than 180), and strip the original paint as fast as possible. I was getting impatient, 180 was moving a bit slow. I also sanded everything (even the plastic parts) and repainted everything.

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Probably a dumb question, but I’ve never sanded metal before. Are you doing anything special to avoid etching the rack when you sand it?
 
Probably a dumb answer, but no I didn't do anything to prevent the etching, and I think what I proposed (stronger grit) probably amplifies that issue. I noticed etching with the 180 grit, but again due to my goal (just get the rack back to black) I didn't care and didn't think it would matter much. Once I got the paint on, I couldn't see the etching.
 
@Gnarwgn Great scoop, buddy. The matte finish appears to be a good pair with the the side window trim black...I was thinking I needed a glossier finish, but the clear coat appears to do a good job of accomplishing the finished look. Going to give this a try. Thank you for the recommendations.
 

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