I'm happy with mine so far. I paid $290 and ended up with a brand new one when the scratch and dent one was broken beyond repair. I will put mine through the ringer, it will be bounced around in my 100, installed in the bed of my truck, run on 12v and 110v regularly, etc. If it lasts 3 years I will be happy. But yeah, if I had the cash for a better fridge I would have bought that instead... Cheap fridge is better than no fridge.
Rolling the dice on this fridge 63QQT $270 shipped
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- #202
My thinking too and used the same on the $109 snorkel. Like you said if it lasts for 3 years that's less than 30 cents a day and no more buying ice or eating soggy sandwiches!
fridges are no rocket science. Problems with the mechanicals are fairly easily fixed. An IC board you'll likely need to buy but the cooling side is pretty standard stuff. I found a fancy mini freezer -medical grade- for free on CL once. Not working. Just had to replace the temp sensor -that I even got for free from the company- and it's working good as new... Took an hour or 2 and I am no fridge specialist. Of course, that was lucky but even a loss of refrigerant, faulty compressor etc can be pretty easily fixed. So I would not hesitate to get an inexpensive reasonable fridge and take a chance.
Symptom. Edgestar 43 qt. compressor won't come on. Has refrigerant. Checked with self piercing valve and gauge. Compressor won't come on.
Solution. I have no clue. I thought it was just refrigerant. Must be electrical or compressor malfunction.
Any thoughts on how to fix?
Solution. I have no clue. I thought it was just refrigerant. Must be electrical or compressor malfunction.
Any thoughts on how to fix?
http://youtu.be/RbaPB5HMjdo --- This video has some useful information that may help you diagnose the issue. I would start with checking all the wires and connections.
I just watched it. Thanks.
I watched the videos and tore into it today in the elephant bar parking lot within the inland empire. I'm borrowing a volt meter an will test the inverter and the compressor panel tomorrow. Hopefully one of them fails and I can just replace it. Both pieces are about $180 each but the tech seemed to think thy could get it to me cheaper based on the serial number. I'll post the results.
I will say this. As long as it's one of these two components, it should be an easy fix. It's just r&r. There really isn't a lot to this system once you get in there.
I will say this. As long as it's one of these two components, it should be an easy fix. It's just r&r. There really isn't a lot to this system once you get in there.
^Good to know, let us know what you find. There doesn't appear to be a lot if DIY repair information about these units.
My relatively new fridge is going strong at 33°F since I got it. It has been filled up a few times with groceries in my LX, jumped over rail road tracks, and just finished a tour of Texas in the bed of my truck going from ambient of 80° to 15° over a weekend. It has some scratches now, no major dents. The only thing I'm worried about is the 12v plug sticking out of the side of the fridge and if it can be easily broken.
My relatively new fridge is going strong at 33°F since I got it. It has been filled up a few times with groceries in my LX, jumped over rail road tracks, and just finished a tour of Texas in the bed of my truck going from ambient of 80° to 15° over a weekend. It has some scratches now, no major dents. The only thing I'm worried about is the 12v plug sticking out of the side of the fridge and if it can be easily broken.
My whynter 65qt sets at 0F is draining battery too fast. Even my 100w solar with pwm charge controller cant keep up with it in AZ sun. 12.7V to 11.3V from dawn to dusk with solar charging. How are yours draining?
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Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
not surprising.
set at 0F, your fridge is probably running full time. At about 5A, you are likely sucking 70W continuously. Your 100W panel likely gives anything close to 100 only under peak conditions like solar noon and perfect orientation, less if not and maybe much less other times like early morning and late pm.
There has to be a very good reason to set things at 0F if one values one's battery charge.
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- #212
With your fridge full and vented you should no have a problem with 100W of solar. I'm also in AZ and get 5.5 amp output on my flat mounted 100Watt panel for several hours a day this time of year.
Phil, what charge controller do you have? My kit Renogy 30A pwm charge controller doesnt output close to your number. I check a couple times this afternoon and only got a lil past 4A.
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Morningstar ProStar PS-30M
One of my friends got a 43 qt, so I was able to test this myself today. You can fit two, one gallon "milk jugs" diagonally from each other if you take out the basket. Or you can fit two, one gallon Arizona Tea style jugs side by side. Just a reference point for anyone interested.
I returned the whynter 65 qt to homedepot. Even setting temp at 10F drained battery to 11.5V where the compressor shut off and melted my ice cream after it has frozen it. The pwm charge controller cant keep up with it.
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- #218
Now you can take the money saved get an edgestar and another panel AND a new controller!
New Edgestar costs about the same. Everyone is waiting for the scratched /dent Edgestar so my chance of snapping one is slim. I paid $461 shipped for the Whynter. I thought about getting another panel and the mppt controller but both added up to be around $300+. I could put that $ toward the ARB or Engel and dont have to worry about battery drain.
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From my experience you get a better value with this size system to spend the money on a larger panel or more efficient loads then a MPPT controller.
