- Thread starter
- #21
Will do, boss
Rolling rebuild and dumb questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter micdon
- Start date
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Hi
Lots wrong in that photo.
It would make a good training photo on how not to do it.
Yes circled is the adjuster.
A before and after photo of my build.
The good thing about the forty series brake system is all parts are available after market.
Suggest you buy a spring kit.
Keep up the build.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
Lots wrong in that photo.
It would make a good training photo on how not to do it.
Yes circled is the adjuster.
A before and after photo of my build.
The good thing about the forty series brake system is all parts are available after market.
Suggest you buy a spring kit.
Keep up the build.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks for your reply and encouragement bambi. It is indeed as pighead stated: not the same brake as we're talking about but, I love the quality of the refurb. I just recieved an email from my parts vendor:
shoes : $55,54
springkit + outputshaft nut: $20,55
outputshaft seal: $4,85
All original toyota parts..Also in the quote rearlight assy for $114 ea. But still OEM
Sadly the OEM turnsignals are no longer available via him, but I've still got a lead somewhere else. I'll find out tomorrow
@Pighead: I agree, yes there are dumb questions, and yes, sometimes I ask them.....
Hi
Yes I know the photo was not the same but I have a hand brake on the rear wheel.
Best I could do at short notice.
You were asking about self adjusters. The photo shows the rear self adjuster.
Those prices for OEM parts sound ok.
Here in the land of Australia some OEM prices are ok but overall the answer I'm told is no longer available .
My 40 series is a 1982. I was chasing new rear lamp sets . The 1982 lamp has a oval plug. I could get left hand side but not the right.
I then found a after market set. The first set I brought ( $42.00 per pair Taiwan ) ended up back on EBay as they rough you get what you pay for.
The next set also from Taiwan not to bad. $120.00 per pair.
In saying that if a new OEM set came available would I buy??? If the price was right more than likely .
Photo of my rear lamps.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
Yes I know the photo was not the same but I have a hand brake on the rear wheel.
Best I could do at short notice.
You were asking about self adjusters. The photo shows the rear self adjuster.
Those prices for OEM parts sound ok.
Here in the land of Australia some OEM prices are ok but overall the answer I'm told is no longer available .
My 40 series is a 1982. I was chasing new rear lamp sets . The 1982 lamp has a oval plug. I could get left hand side but not the right.
I then found a after market set. The first set I brought ( $42.00 per pair Taiwan ) ended up back on EBay as they rough you get what you pay for.
The next set also from Taiwan not to bad. $120.00 per pair.
In saying that if a new OEM set came available would I buy??? If the price was right more than likely .
Photo of my rear lamps.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #27
Finally got the frame cleared of all parts and started a proper frame inspection. And off course you always find more rust then you bargained for.. Not as bad as some I have seen here on MUD, but for me this a definite first and a steed learning curve. What scared me most was the 1/2 inch "bodylift"
I found and the rear springhangers
I found and the rear springhangers
- Thread starter
- #28
So I started to gently remove the solid rivets from the rear end. Then i started getting less and less gentle.
At the end this was my preferred method:
Drill in 3 steps to 8mm, then take a chisel and whack 1 head off. Put the chisel on the opposite head, another 2 whacks and the fall out
Tools required:
And another, just to prove it's me..
.At the end this was my preferred method:
Drill in 3 steps to 8mm, then take a chisel and whack 1 head off. Put the chisel on the opposite head, another 2 whacks and the fall out
Tools required:
And another, just to prove it's me..
- Thread starter
- #29
Anyway, at the end this what I ended up with having to replace/repair
And here is the first bumpstop repaired
And here is the first bumpstop repaired
- Thread starter
- #30
QUESTION:
Last thursday, I visited a fellow cruiserhead in Belgium. He restores cruisers for customers. his advise on the chassis was to remove ALL rivets, take the complete chassis apart, powdercoat all pieces seperatly, then reinstall using bolts. Now, I must say it looked absolutely sweet on the rig he had started to reassemble. But I have some questions for the mud gurus..
1. I don't like the idea of replacing all rivets with bolts, because bolts will have play in the holes?
2. Seeing as there is always some play between bolt and hole, how are you sure you're reassembling the frame square?
3. Is it even necessary and not just a bit of overkill?
Last thursday, I visited a fellow cruiserhead in Belgium. He restores cruisers for customers. his advise on the chassis was to remove ALL rivets, take the complete chassis apart, powdercoat all pieces seperatly, then reinstall using bolts. Now, I must say it looked absolutely sweet on the rig he had started to reassemble. But I have some questions for the mud gurus..
1. I don't like the idea of replacing all rivets with bolts, because bolts will have play in the holes?
2. Seeing as there is always some play between bolt and hole, how are you sure you're reassembling the frame square?
3. Is it even necessary and not just a bit of overkill?
Hi Micdon
You are right in what you say.
Rivets verse bolts.
A riveted joint will give a better fix over a bolt.
Take two pieces of steel and drill a 1/2 inch hole (500 thou). Take one rivet with an out side diameter of 501 to 502 thou.
The rivet is now a press fit into the hole. Set the rivet using the correct tools.
The rivet now grows into the hole.
Apply shear force . No movement between the 2 pieces of steel will occur till rivet sheer.
Correctly done this riveted joint will last the life of the piece of riveted steel with no maintenance necessary. A rusted out piece of riveted steel is a challenge to separate.
A chassis twisting and flexing would be a source of shear force.
Bolts
Take to pieces of steel and drill a 1/2 inch hole (500 thou) . Take a 1/2 inch bolt and put it through the hole and tighten to the correct torque. What happens?
If the bolt is not a tolerance fit in the hole and you torque the bolt the 2 pieces of steel are clamped together and a friction fit is achieved.
Apply shear force and the two plates will move once the shear force friction is meet. This force would be far less than the shear of the rivet.
Once movement occurs between two pieces of steel wear begins.
This time use a bolt that is a tolerance fit in the 1/2 inch hole . Problem being here is the length of the precision section of the bolt must equal the thickness of the 2 pieces of steel you wish to join. Bolts to meet this specification may not be available.
This combination torqued correctly should give good results . However in my opinion it will not replace the rivet in some applications.
These are my thoughts only and are based on a life time of knowledge with working with steel.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
You are right in what you say.
Rivets verse bolts.
A riveted joint will give a better fix over a bolt.
Take two pieces of steel and drill a 1/2 inch hole (500 thou). Take one rivet with an out side diameter of 501 to 502 thou.
The rivet is now a press fit into the hole. Set the rivet using the correct tools.
The rivet now grows into the hole.
Apply shear force . No movement between the 2 pieces of steel will occur till rivet sheer.
Correctly done this riveted joint will last the life of the piece of riveted steel with no maintenance necessary. A rusted out piece of riveted steel is a challenge to separate.
A chassis twisting and flexing would be a source of shear force.
Bolts
Take to pieces of steel and drill a 1/2 inch hole (500 thou) . Take a 1/2 inch bolt and put it through the hole and tighten to the correct torque. What happens?
If the bolt is not a tolerance fit in the hole and you torque the bolt the 2 pieces of steel are clamped together and a friction fit is achieved.
Apply shear force and the two plates will move once the shear force friction is meet. This force would be far less than the shear of the rivet.
Once movement occurs between two pieces of steel wear begins.
This time use a bolt that is a tolerance fit in the 1/2 inch hole . Problem being here is the length of the precision section of the bolt must equal the thickness of the 2 pieces of steel you wish to join. Bolts to meet this specification may not be available.
This combination torqued correctly should give good results . However in my opinion it will not replace the rivet in some applications.
These are my thoughts only and are based on a life time of knowledge with working with steel.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #32
Bambi,
this is also what I thought, but you put in words beautifully. And have sage advice on the bolts
II'm going to powdercoat the frame without taking it apart completely. The parts that I have taken off to repair I'm going to bolt back on. I feel that structurally it will not impaer much because the other crossmembers are still rivetted. The bolts are going to be M10. The holes are pre-powdercoat also M10. So I'm hoping that after powdercoat, they wil be a nice snug fit.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #33
So here's today's update:
made new body mounts from scratch.
And repaired the rearspring perches, by replacing the old rusted out and pinholed plate,
with one made from scratch...
made new body mounts from scratch.
And repaired the rearspring perches, by replacing the old rusted out and pinholed plate,
with one made from scratch...
- Thread starter
- #34
So yesterday finally got all the welding done. Then I started looking at the fitment of the new bodymounts. And here rises a new
QUESTION:
The bodymountkit I'm using is the Dynastar kit with P/N KT04007BK. I know from using the search function in MUDD that these are prety much a favorite. I cannot however find information about the issue I have run into.
On the most forward bodymount I have a dish welded to the frame. And it looks pretty stock, but with this dish installed the parts of the mount do not connect like they should. On one side I removed the dish and things line up now. I was wondering how others dealt with this?
here's the chassis where the dish came off
here's the dish
and here is how the mount fits now
The question is.. Does anybody know if I am going to run into trouble running without these dishes welded to the chassis?
QUESTION:
The bodymountkit I'm using is the Dynastar kit with P/N KT04007BK. I know from using the search function in MUDD that these are prety much a favorite. I cannot however find information about the issue I have run into.
On the most forward bodymount I have a dish welded to the frame. And it looks pretty stock, but with this dish installed the parts of the mount do not connect like they should. On one side I removed the dish and things line up now. I was wondering how others dealt with this?
here's the chassis where the dish came off
here's the dish
and here is how the mount fits now
The question is.. Does anybody know if I am going to run into trouble running without these dishes welded to the chassis?
Hi Micdon
Nice work and nicer welding you could get a job at my factory.
First your chassis.
Bolts yes this will be ok.
Tips use high tensile then a washer and a spring washer plus loctite and a torque wrench.
Keep your 10 mm hole tight 9.8 , 9.9 . You will have to clean out after powder coating but that's ok.
My research on chassis coating saw many different views of which I will share with you.
1 Hot dipped Galvanizing . The good is this is a full chassis dipping and a excellent rust prevention . The bad is the finish and hard to paint over. I did not want my FJ with a lumpy silver chassis.
2 Powder Coating . Done properly by sand blasting then as is straightaway coating will give excellent results. The finish will be excellent . Against stone chip and you have allowed a point for corrosion to start. Powder coating is hard to patch up once it starts to wear . It looks beautiful new but how about in 5 years. It not as though you can remove the part and have it re coated as it starts to look old.
3 Have the chassis Zinc dipped . Zinc leaves a better finish than galvanizing and it can be painted over. Against I could not find one.
4 A high quality urethane finish . The good, long life, the finish glossy that will stay glossy through the years, good stone chip resistance and can be touched up. Against if you stone chip you have allowed a place for corrosion to start but you can repair.
My choice I combined 3 and 4 the result was pleasing. The company that did the work are specialist in bridge and large metal constructions . There comments were this coating should have a 20 year life span if exposed to the elements.
If I stone chip I have the Zinc coating as protection.
On receiving the chassis back from the painters I had to re tap all holes as they had been covered in coating.
Body mounts
My FJ is a later model than yours and my mounts fit the dish.
Ask your self why is the dish there?
Is the hole in the dish smaller than the hole in the chassis mount?
Your photo is not clear as to were the mis fit is accruing.
To photos for you .
1 Is the chassis before coating.
2 Is the chassis after coating.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
Nice work and nicer welding you could get a job at my factory.
First your chassis.
Bolts yes this will be ok.
Tips use high tensile then a washer and a spring washer plus loctite and a torque wrench.
Keep your 10 mm hole tight 9.8 , 9.9 . You will have to clean out after powder coating but that's ok.
My research on chassis coating saw many different views of which I will share with you.
1 Hot dipped Galvanizing . The good is this is a full chassis dipping and a excellent rust prevention . The bad is the finish and hard to paint over. I did not want my FJ with a lumpy silver chassis.
2 Powder Coating . Done properly by sand blasting then as is straightaway coating will give excellent results. The finish will be excellent . Against stone chip and you have allowed a point for corrosion to start. Powder coating is hard to patch up once it starts to wear . It looks beautiful new but how about in 5 years. It not as though you can remove the part and have it re coated as it starts to look old.
3 Have the chassis Zinc dipped . Zinc leaves a better finish than galvanizing and it can be painted over. Against I could not find one.
4 A high quality urethane finish . The good, long life, the finish glossy that will stay glossy through the years, good stone chip resistance and can be touched up. Against if you stone chip you have allowed a place for corrosion to start but you can repair.
My choice I combined 3 and 4 the result was pleasing. The company that did the work are specialist in bridge and large metal constructions . There comments were this coating should have a 20 year life span if exposed to the elements.
If I stone chip I have the Zinc coating as protection.
On receiving the chassis back from the painters I had to re tap all holes as they had been covered in coating.
Body mounts
My FJ is a later model than yours and my mounts fit the dish.
Ask your self why is the dish there?
Is the hole in the dish smaller than the hole in the chassis mount?
Your photo is not clear as to were the mis fit is accruing.
To photos for you .
1 Is the chassis before coating.
2 Is the chassis after coating.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #36
Bambi,
first off, thanks for the kind words about the welds. I do think that if you saw them all you would reconsider your job offer I'm still left with a ton of welding questions but that's a different story. BTW the commute would be a dealkiller
I love your chassis(hmm sounds weird) but like mentioned before unfortunately money is still an issue.
To illustrate the fitment issue:
these are 2 halves of 1 mount
With the dish installed the total thickness of the frame is 7 mm.
So I've been thinking about why the dish is there and here's what I came up with... The dish is there to enlarge the surface area in a side to side way. To keep the frame from cutting into the rubber of the bodymount. As a byproduct, the dish also decreases the size of the hole in the frame.
What I did is weld a ring into the hole in the frame to match the size of the mount. All I'm missing now is the increased surface area. But because the new mounts are polyurethane instead of rubber I'm guestemating its going to be alright. But time will tell
For reference here are pics of the rear bumper
and another reasons to remove the dish...
...?????
And after welding..
first off, thanks for the kind words about the welds. I do think that if you saw them all you would reconsider your job offer
I'm still left with a ton of welding questions but that's a different story. BTW the commute would be a dealkillerI love your chassis(hmm sounds weird) but like mentioned before unfortunately money is still an issue.
To illustrate the fitment issue:
these are 2 halves of 1 mount
With the dish installed the total thickness of the frame is 7 mm.
So I've been thinking about why the dish is there and here's what I came up with... The dish is there to enlarge the surface area in a side to side way. To keep the frame from cutting into the rubber of the bodymount. As a byproduct, the dish also decreases the size of the hole in the frame.
What I did is weld a ring into the hole in the frame to match the size of the mount. All I'm missing now is the increased surface area. But because the new mounts are polyurethane instead of rubber I'm guestemating its going to be alright. But time will tell
For reference here are pics of the rear bumper
and another reasons to remove the dish...
...?????
And after welding..
Hi micdon
I like your fix. Very neat.
Still strange the mount did not fit.
Yes your reasons for the dish are correct. Plus the shape of the dish would tend to support the outer diameter of the mount.
Remember that you now have lost the thickness of the dish when you put the body back on the chassis. You may need to fit a spacer in there somewhere.
I will check the measurements on the new mounts I brought and report back.
This will have to wait a week as I'm manning the company's China office and have a week of duty left.
Question
Through the middle of the mount goes. Sleeve and a bolt or only a bolt?
Keep the pictures coming Plus keep up the good work.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
I like your fix. Very neat.
Still strange the mount did not fit.
Yes your reasons for the dish are correct. Plus the shape of the dish would tend to support the outer diameter of the mount.
Remember that you now have lost the thickness of the dish when you put the body back on the chassis. You may need to fit a spacer in there somewhere.
I will check the measurements on the new mounts I brought and report back.
This will have to wait a week as I'm manning the company's China office and have a week of duty left.
Question
Through the middle of the mount goes. Sleeve and a bolt or only a bolt?
Keep the pictures coming Plus keep up the good work.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #38
this weeks update:
dropped all the parts of at the coater. Replaced the brake and clutch lines I didn't get to during the brake refurb and inspected, cleaned and retaped the wiring loom. For the brake lines I'm using cunifer. I love the stuff. It's easy to bend and flare and doesn't corrode.
@Bambi Girl: You've got a point about the thickness of mountpack. I'll check next saterday. Parts should be ready by then. Through the middle of the mount goes a bush. I'm using the daystar kit.
And.....pics..
dropped all the parts of at the coater. Replaced the brake and clutch lines I didn't get to during the brake refurb and inspected, cleaned and retaped the wiring loom. For the brake lines I'm using cunifer. I love the stuff. It's easy to bend and flare and doesn't corrode.
@Bambi Girl: You've got a point about the thickness of mountpack. I'll check next saterday. Parts should be ready by then. Through the middle of the mount goes a bush. I'm using the daystar kit.
And.....pics..
Man. I thought I was chasing some cancer. My body has problems by my frame is all surface rust that I have seen. Good work.
- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks byrd. I read your thread some time ago. I tried my hand at welding bodywork last saterday. I have to say, welding chassis comes easier to me, so I really respect your work. I'm dreading next year when the body is due it's overhaul. PO did love his glassfiber
