Sorry, but IMHO, that Kestrel is trash. It has been in accident heavy enough to tweek the front fork severely, so there is a good chance the frame is also damaged. All the components are old and probably worn. The wheels should be thrown in the trash also.
Road Bikes and Frame Sets
- Thread starter johnny4ever
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Sorry, but IMHO, that Kestrel is trash. It has been in accident heavy enough to tweek the front fork severely, so there is a good chance the frame is also damaged. All the components are old and probably worn. The wheels should be thrown in the trash also.
I didn't know about the fork. However, I broke (as in, both fork tines cracked nearly off near the crown -- maybe like Nicole Brown Simpson's neck) an Alpha Q in a crash once with no damage whatsoever to my Calfee frame. So I wouldn't write off the Kestrel's frame, although based on what's in the other thread I wouldn't pull a muscle reaching for the checkbook to buy it either.
Oh yeah -- my 9sp DA beater bike circa 1999 still shifts crisper than my 10sp DA group on the bike I got last year. (The derailleur on the Kestrel is even older than that) Can't wait to try out the SRAM road group though -- that's gonna happen over the winter. Woo-Hoo!!
- Thread starter
- #23
So Ultegra is the mid grade and DuraAce is the top?
I am hip to the Mountain Componentry but fairly ignorant on the Road gear.
How much of a difference is there in shifting and braking when comparing the various levels of components?
I am hip to the Mountain Componentry but fairly ignorant on the Road gear.
How much of a difference is there in shifting and braking when comparing the various levels of components?
The main thing I noticed between Ultegra and DA is the distance you have to push the right hand brake lever before the rear derailleur shifts. You have to push it farther with Ultegra than with DA. With DA, it takes only a slight finger twitch to shift to the next larger rear cog.
They say there are weight differences between the groups too (and I believe "them"), but I'm not in the crowd that thinks that a 15.5# bike is worth three times as much as a 16.5# bike. Save thousands by taking a duper before the ride . . .
Dura-Ace = XTR
Ultegra = XT
105= LX
Tiagra= Deore
Sora= Entry level.
As far as performance anything 105 and above works nearly the same, its just gets a little lighter and more durable as you go higher.
Check your local craigslist. There's usually some decent older bikes for not much money, and you can generally upgrade components until it gets stupid (or maybe beyond that.)
I'd stay away from anything too crazy, like those kestrels. They sacrifice a bit of rideability for Time Trial performance. A disk wheel is a pain in a crosswind.
And no, there is no gayer clothing than road bike wear. Except for assless chaps.
always lots of nice bikes on craigslist
From what I understand, it takes a lot to do that to a Kestrel.
Did you look at the components? He would like to sell it complete but he does realize that he is selling jsut the componenets.
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- #31
The components are garbage. That is 7 or 8 speed dura-ace, on what appears to be the old 126mm hub standard. The rear wheel isn't compatible with new frames, the front wheel is probably garbage, the components have a lot of wear and aren't even close to today's Tiagra stuff, the frame has a hole on it. Yea, it was a $3000 bike in in 1988, now it is a 22 pound paperweight.
If it were offered for free, I might take it, simply because I might use a part off of it at some point. Otherwise, I wouldn't touch it. I know it is harsh, but it is the truth.
I agree with Cary on the Kestrel as well. Plus, I wouldn't get a double as an entry level biker. You'll really appreciate the triple until you get better.
Perhaps try an Orbea Orca.
I would absolutely recommend a triple. Some will tell you a compact double is a good alternative, I disagree, the spacing on the chainrings is to wide so it doesn't work as well as a triple.
Unless you are a really strong rider (when I say strong, I mean it, not you think you are), or live where there are absolutely no hills, get a triple.
That is exactly what I was looking for.
That is what I told him but he took it to two different bike shops and they put stupid figures in his head. I think they were going to take in in on trade and thought he was going to buy a $3,000.00 bike or something.
Here is one that sold on ebay recently for $400, and that was for a newer model that is in mind condition and obviously well maintained.
http://cgi.ebay.com/KESTREL-CARBON-...ryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/KESTREL-CARBON-...ryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
This should be perfect. They were figuring out that weight was important and that it was possible to make a light steel bike by the '80s. The components will get you started and if you get into it enough any modern components you want to bling it out with will fit.
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What Cary said x5 or what ever. Stay away from that Kestrel. It was not any good when it was new anyway IMHO.
Your wise to look for a steel bike as the ride quality will be better. However steel has fallen out of fashion as AL is lighter and light weight seems to be easier to sell than ride quality.
Your wise to look for a steel bike as the ride quality will be better. However steel has fallen out of fashion as AL is lighter and light weight seems to be easier to sell than ride quality.
Go to local bike shops and ask around about used bikes. Sometimes they might also have a repair job that was never picked up. You'll find club ride flyers at the counter, contact the clubs and ask about any used bikes club members may have.
A couple of years ago, after picking through the flea market, I went to a Schwinn shop and picked up a 1984 Mercian. It's hand built in Derby, England. Lugged steel frame and fork, matching serial numbers, with a full Campognolo Nuovo Record group and Mavic wheels. It's a double chain ring (52 - 42) with a 7 speed gear set but it's flat here in Houston.
He wanted $120 for it, but they had a flyer in the window, 10% off used bikes today only so I got it for about $112. The shop dude seemed irritated with me that I got it so cheap but he priced it, not me. The customer behind me said the derailleur cost more than that. I got tires, tubes, bar tape and a new chain, brake pads, cables, etc. then cleaned it and tuned it up. Later I got a seat I like by going to the parts counter and asking for a take off. Customers upgrade their purchase, and when they do, the removed parts (brand new) get thrown in a box. It was $8 for a Selle Italia.
It's not the perfect bike, but I've ridden STI shifters and I kind of like the old skool down tube shifters. More direct, instantaneous changes, like a short throw 4 speed in an old MGB. And I can fix it myself.
And Colnago? Made in Taiwan. Just llike all the rest.
A couple of years ago, after picking through the flea market, I went to a Schwinn shop and picked up a 1984 Mercian. It's hand built in Derby, England. Lugged steel frame and fork, matching serial numbers, with a full Campognolo Nuovo Record group and Mavic wheels. It's a double chain ring (52 - 42) with a 7 speed gear set but it's flat here in Houston.
He wanted $120 for it, but they had a flyer in the window, 10% off used bikes today only so I got it for about $112. The shop dude seemed irritated with me that I got it so cheap but he priced it, not me. The customer behind me said the derailleur cost more than that. I got tires, tubes, bar tape and a new chain, brake pads, cables, etc. then cleaned it and tuned it up. Later I got a seat I like by going to the parts counter and asking for a take off. Customers upgrade their purchase, and when they do, the removed parts (brand new) get thrown in a box. It was $8 for a Selle Italia.
It's not the perfect bike, but I've ridden STI shifters and I kind of like the old skool down tube shifters. More direct, instantaneous changes, like a short throw 4 speed in an old MGB. And I can fix it myself.
And Colnago? Made in Taiwan. Just llike all the rest.
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Free bike are good bikes but keep in mind that this frame's rear spacing is probably 126mm and will not be work with any current rear hubs. Limiting your options for repair.
If you/someone else picked up this bike and it needs some parts, PM me. I've got some old roadie parts in a box out in the garage that you will not find in shops anymore. Like nearly new 7sp Dur Ace freewheels and such.