Road Bikes and Frame Sets

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igotta40 said:
Go to local bike shops and ask around about used bikes. Sometimes they might also have a repair job that was never picked up. You'll find club ride flyers at the counter, contact the clubs and ask about any used bikes club members may have.

A couple of years ago, after picking through the flea market, I went to a Schwinn shop and picked up a 1984 Mercian. It's hand built in Derby, England. Lugged steel frame and fork, matching serial numbers, with a full Campognolo Nuovo Record group and Mavic wheels. It's a double chain ring (52 - 42) with a 7 speed gear set but it's flat here in Houston.

He wanted $120 for it, but they had a flyer in the window, 10% off used bikes today only so I got it for about $112. The shop dude seemed irritated with me that I got it so cheap but he priced it, not me. The customer behind me said the derailleur cost more than that. I got tires, tubes, bar tape and a new chain, brake pads, cables, etc. then cleaned it and tuned it up. Later I got a seat I like by going to the parts counter and asking for a take off. Customers upgrade their purchase, and when they do, the removed parts (brand new) get thrown in a box. It was $8 for a Selle Italia.

It's not the perfect bike, but I've ridden STI shifters and I kind of like the old skool down tube shifters. More direct, instantaneous changes, like a short throw 4 speed in an old MGB. And I can fix it myself.

And Colnago? Made in Taiwan. Just llike all the rest.
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Sweet find for a C-note. My nostalgia/parade bike is a Masi Volumetrica with Super Record.
 
Corbet said:
Free bike are good bikes but keep in mind that this frame's rear spacing is probably 126mm and will not be work with any current rear hubs. Limiting your options for repair.

If you/someone else picked up this bike and it needs some parts, PM me. I've got some old roadie parts in a box out in the garage that you will not find in shops anymore. Like nearly new 7sp Dur Ace freewheels and such.
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If it's a steel frame, he can respace it to 130mm. As much as I am not a big steel guy, that is one big advantage of it.
 
You could always put some skinnier slicks on your mtb. Nothing says you can't use it as your road bike if you find it comfortable on the road. When I was younger I would do 60 and 100 milers on a steel frame MTB with big knobby tires. It may not be optimal, but before you plunk down a bunch of money, I'd give it a shot.
 
I was in a similar situation with road biking. Bought a left over Jamis Quest in 2006. The 05' frame is steel reynolds 653 main triangle and cromo in the rear and carbon fork. Mostly shimano 105 group, works well. The bike is fast and durable. The price was $850 as a spring leftover. BTW, I really don't like road biking... The sensory input is too slow compared to MTBing. My other ride is an older Cannondale jekyll 1000 with lefty and mix of xt and xtr. It's a bit of a PM hog, but sweet when running right. IMO borrow/rent a bike before you buy, road biking is like cross country skiing as MTB is like downhill skiing. :beer:

My converted kona hot single speed was the best workout bike I ever owned. It was rigid, light and low maintanace. My speed/cadance and smoothness/finesse had no choice but to get alot better or feel alot of pain. It was my spring mud bike.

You will never keep up with a couple of real road bikers on a mtb on pavement (maybe find some crazy paved mountain road then you have gears on them). The gearing and tires between road and mtb bikes are way to far apart.
 
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I got this one for $500 out the door. So far it's been a great bike and it's been excellent for anything I've thrown at it. I think the longest ride i've done is only 20 miles, but with more training I could surely go farther on it.

http://www.diamondback.com/items.asp?deptid=4&itemid=166
 
Corbet said:
My thoughts too, but he said he is on a budget. No Record 10sp for him.
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Well I am being realistic. I am no Lance Armstrong and I aint shavin my legs for extra speed. I can see how a carbon bike might be good for riding in pro level races but over 5k for a bike when you casually ride is excessive.
 
johnny4ever said:
I agree but arent chaps assless by definition?
Perhaps Noah could tell us.:D
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Yeah, but it's funnier when you say "assless chaps."

For instance: "Nothing chaps my ass like having to wear assless chaps when I work the drive thru at Wendy's."

Back on topic, though. I got a two year old Specialized Roubaix for my recent foray into road biking. It's Aluminum with carbon fork, seatstays, handlebars, and seat post. I really like the way it rides. componentry is Shimano 105 with a triple. It's very hilly where I live.
 
Ok, this is not for everybody. But here's what I would do if I was getting you on a road bike with the objective of learning you how to ride and enjoy road bikes.

I'd find out your frame size (standard old school (80's) frame geometry), and find you a beater road frame. Some old pinarello or whatever that was a hot frame in 1984 but collects dust in an old roadie's garage now. Throw on bottom bracket, headset, front wheel, stem, bars, tape, front brake, rear wheel with fixed gear and a locknut (probably a 16 or 17 cog), cranks with a 42 chainring, seatpost, seat, pedals and a chain. NB - the frame must have horizontal dropouts so the rear hub can slide back to tension the chain...remember there is no rear derailleur on this setup to do that)

Do all of this on the cheap (except for the rubber on the front wheel) - all this stuff out of the fellas' garages might cost you a few hundred, and a hundred for the guy at the bike shop to build for you.

Then, ride a little with the seat lower than usual in the park, on the grass, until you get used to the fixed gear.

Then, go for some easy FLAT rides on the road.

Then, ease into group rides with the fellas - only flat rides - for a few weeks.

This is all to learn how to pedal a road bike and dramatically increase your bike handling skills.

After a few months you will be the best pedaler among them, will really understand the dynamics of a road bike, and will make make a way better decision buying frame and parts for a true road bike.

:beer:

David

Edit - also, try to get the shortest cranks possible - you have to pedal through corners...
 
I am diggin on all this info.

I went out tonight for a Mountain Bike ride after dark. Ended up being three of us. I was showing my brother in law the trails since he is visiting. We caught up with another biker and let him lead. He is a mad man though and kicked my ass. Big time climbing this time out. At one point they were both ahead of my a good stretch and I was speeding along to catch up when at a golf trail water crossing I busted hard. Scraped the rear derailleur along the pavement, ground off most of my shoelaces, and skinned my knee. About one third of the 11 mile ride was climbing.

I have a long way to go before I can ride with the road bike fags.
 
OZCAL said:
Ok, this is not for everybody. But here's what I would do if I was getting you on a road bike with the objective of learning you how to ride and enjoy road bikes.

I'd find out your frame size (standard old school (80's) frame geometry), and find you a beater road frame. Some old pinarello or whatever that was a hot frame in 1984 but collects dust in an old roadie's garage now. Throw on bottom bracket, headset, front wheel, stem, bars, tape, front brake, rear wheel with fixed gear and a locknut (probably a 16 or 17 cog), cranks with a 42 chainring, seatpost, seat, pedals and a chain. NB - the frame must have horizontal dropouts so the rear hub can slide back to tension the chain...remember there is no rear derailleur on this setup to do that)

.....

This is all to learn how to pedal a road bike and dramatically increase your bike handling skills.
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Fixed gear bikes belong in one place. The track. Not out in traffic on the road. I know may people who ride them. I have no such ego. There are other ways to learn correct techniques that are much safer.

This is honestly the worst road bike advice I've ever heard even after 14 years of working in the bike industry.
 
Corbet said:
Fixed gear bikes belong in one place. The track. Not out in traffic on the road. I know may people who ride them. I have no such ego. There are other ways to learn correct techniques that are much safer.

This is honestly the worst road bike advice I've ever heard even after 14 years of working in the bike industry.
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I disagree with this. I commute on my bike to work 80% or more of the time. In all weather, all year long. The majority of the time I ride a fixed gear. It's fine in traffic once you learn the quirks. It is a poor place to start as a beginning roadie. Otherwise, it's remarkably thereputic.

Over the last 25 years of my cycling life, I have ridden just about everything. Steel, titanium, carbon fiber, aluminum. If I were still racing, I would say get a carbon fiber Trek and go at it. They are light, strong, comfortable, and disposable.

Kestrals are weak in the bottom bracket area and I have seen several fail. Especially those old ones. Avoid.

If you are buying a bike to ride and train and basically learn the roadie way, the advice about buying an old steel frame is excellent. There are great frames out there just moldering away. Go into an old school bike shop and they will usually have some for sale on consignment. My fixed gear is an old Paramount, (a 50th edition for you bike nuts). There are tons of nice frames out there, but look for frames with racing geometry by an established maker. Then add a modern component group (Dura Ace is the best shifting-despite what the Campy lovers will try and tell you). The real deal on steel is the road feel. Nothing, not even titanium, feels as good going down the road. It has a springy, resiliant, comfortable stable feel that is unique. You should be able to build a bike like this around 22 pounds which is fine for road riding and training. Look for a frame in your size, made from a good tube set like Reynolds or Columbus. Look for a frame with horizontal drop outs so you can make it a fixed gear in a few years.

Titanium is also an excellent frame material, but much more expensive. A 10 year old Litespeed would be a good choice, again outfitted with the component group of your choice, but I am very partial to Dura Ace! It will easily cost twice the price of a good used steel frame though.

As Cary mentioned, the only thing that really matters for a non-racer, is fit. Let me add to that, a good saddle is nice as well. You may go through several saddles to find one you like and can live with. My favorite is still a San Marco Rolls which has been made the same way for 20 years! The newer phiziks (sp?) fit me pretty well also.

One last thing to look at is frame geometry. I would err on the side of stable, as opposed to twichy--a bike shop can guide you here. You'll understand why the first time you wail down a long hill at 50mph.

BTW-resetting the rear drop out width on a steel bike is no big deal. A custom shop can cold set it for you easily. Do not do this with aluminum or CF. I don't know if it's possible with Titanium.

I did not mention Aluminum bikes. I don't like them. The road feel is dead. They are cheap and light, but again, I would put these in the disposable category. Fine for a racer for a season or two.

One last thing. Don't get too hung up on weight, at least not yet. COncentrate on fit and quality. Get decent components. Ride a lot. In a year, things will be much clearer to you.
 
I paid $125 for a used road bike that fit good eight years ago. It is probley the best investment I have ever made it my life. I already have over 1100 miles on it this summer. Spending big cash on a bike will not make you a better rider. Only time in the saddle will. When you get enough time, then you will have a better idea of what would make that big cash bike just right for you.

Whatever you choose good luck and have fun.
 
Corbet said:
Fixed gear bikes belong in one place. The track. Not out in traffic on the road. I know may people who ride them. I have no such ego. There are other ways to learn correct techniques that are much safer.

This is honestly the worst road bike advice I've ever heard even after 14 years of working in the bike industry.
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Corbet, making such a broad statement makes me think you don't know what you are talking about.

A fixed gear eliminates coasting, which = flat spots on the learning curve. We are talking about someone who already rides a mountain bike, so he has awareness of how a bike works.

What exactly is your problem with learning road bike dynamics on a fixed gear?

What is your experience with fixed gears?
 
johnny4ever said:
Well I am being realistic. I am no Lance Armstrong and I aint shavin my legs for extra speed. I can see how a carbon bike might be good for riding in pro level races but over 5k for a bike when you casually ride is excessive.
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We don't shave our legs for speed, you've got that confused with the swimmers. Shaved legs make it easier to pick out the gravel when some douch bag in a P-up, with a rebel flag on the back, runs your ass off the road. Hair and road-rash don't mix... :D
 
MJADDICTION said:
We don't shave our legs for speed, you've got that confused with the swimmers. Shaved legs make it easier to pick out the gravel when some douch bag in a P-up, with a rebel flag on the back, runs your ass off the road. Hair and road-rash don't mix... :D
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Seems like the hair would be grown back in before the scab comes off. Wouldn't scraping all your skin off kinda take the hair too by default?
:flipoff2:
 
OZCAL said:
Corbet, making such a broad statement makes me think you don't know what you are talking about.

A fixed gear eliminates coasting, which = flat spots on the learning curve. We are talking about someone who already rides a mountain bike, so he has awareness of how a bike works.

What exactly is your problem with learning road bike dynamics on a fixed gear?

What is your experience with fixed gears?
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I have ridden them, I do not own one.

"Most" of the people I know riding fixed gear bike here in the USA are bike messengers. "Most" of them take foolish risks in traffic anyway so why not remove our brakes and fix the hub too...

Nothing wrong with "learning the dynamics" on a fixed gear but to put someone out on the road with traffic and other dangers without the ability to coast when his natural instict is going to be stop pedaling when applying the brakes is foolish. Using one in a more controled enviroment OK. I'm sure he can learn to do it but should this be his first road bike? Not in my opinion. And I will stand by that.
 
I ride my fixed gear with brakes, unlike track riders. In my mind a fixed gear is good for your pedalling motion, but no brakes in traffic would be stupid. The fixed gear causes a variable work out as well. You work hard uphill, you spin like crazy down hill or with the wind following. I like it, but it isn't for everyone. I'm not sure why bike messengers ride fixed. Anyway, bikes are great. They are the future and the past, all at the same time. America would be a better place if most people rode bikes to work.

For the original poster, let us know what you do. If you buy a new bike, spend at least $1000. Building an old frame is cooler and way less expensive. I once bought a very nice bike at a garage sale for $5. It's weird what's out there. Steel bikes and Titanium will last and still be good the rest of your life. So it's like buying a Land Cruiser. Be careful what you get, because it will be with you a very long time.


BTW-if you want to spend a bit more, but get something perfect, custom steel bikes are cooler yet. Just remember, you can't buy speed on a bike. It's all you.
 
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