Ride became really rough on my 06 LX470 after installing sliders.

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Hi - my 06 LX470 has 220k miles. The ride was really good and smooth. I installed the white knuckle sliders built specifically for the LX with AHC. Since installation the ride has become super rough. I feel all the imperfections in the road. It almost feels like I'm driving a toyota supra or some sports car harsh.

The sliders don't weigh that much. Perhaps a 100 lbs total? What could be the problem here? The car goes up to high and low perfectly and quickly. Would appreciate the help.
 
Nothing else was changed?
Tires, wheels, anything at all?

Didn't loosen any of the globes or maybe puncture one? (not sure if that could be done or would do anything)
What are your pressures in the system?
 
ACH lines run down the frame. Were they damaged on install of the sliders? Idk how these ones are installed - I had to be careful with the ones I have from slee
It could be but if that were the case wouldn’t the truck have problems going up and down? Since the fluid needs to be pumped through the lines.

Would a pressure reading from tech stream show if lines are damaged? I looked under the car and couldn’t see any leaks from the ahc lines.
 
I'd get under vehicle and double check each brake & AHC hard fluid line and wire and wire housing. Make absolutely certain non have been pinched or damaged.

AHC must be Flushed & Adjusted. It not enough to just flush or change globes. We must adjust pressures. We can use TS cable with a PC or some OBDII device that software offers AHC PID's (data). I have OBDIImx for iphone & TS cable for PC.

A big mistake I see, when a sensor lift is done. Not adjusting pressures. To get rear pressure down to within limits. We must change rear coils (springs ( stock weight King AHC coils work well)). Will need 10mm or 20mm or 30mm donuts "depending" height and weight. Then we must adjust pressures.
 
BTW: You also need to make sure a globe, has not blown. Drive over speed bump at ~30MPH, one wheel (side) at a time.
 
I'd get under vehicle and double check each brake & AHC hard fluid line and wire and wire housing. Make absolutely certain non have been pinched or damaged.

AHC must be Flushed & Adjusted. It not enough to just flush or change globes. We must adjust pressures. We can use TS cable with a PC or some OBDII device that software offers AHC PID's (data). I have OBDIImx for iphone & TS cable for PC.

A big mistake I see, when a sensor lift is done. Not adjusting pressures. To get rear pressure down to within limits. We must change rear coils (springs ( stock weight King AHC coils work well)). Will need 10mm or 20mm or 30mm donuts "depending" height and weight. Then we must adjust pressures.
Speaking of this, I just checked my pressures yesterday:
7.6 Mpa-g front
7.1 Mpa-g rear

Is the preferred rear spacer 48373-60010? Any preferred vendors for King springs? Cruiser Patch is out of stock and ebay is the only non-AU site I found.

My mods include removing the third row and filling the truck with camping junk 😆. I do have a hidden winch incoming soon. Any recommendations on suspension config (e.g. crank vs switch torsion bars, space vs coil)? My height measurement was within ~3/8" of spec all around.

I'll get back to you emiliobarbarigo with the amazon link for the techstream cable I purchased. It works fine and it came with a CD of software. I set up a Windows 7 virtual machine.
 
Had the AHC been serviced? Maybe you were just on the brink of pressures being messed up and the extra weight of the sliders tipped you over.
 
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Speaking of this, I just checked my pressures yesterday:
7.6 Mpa-g front
7.1 Mpa-g rear

Is the preferred rear spacer 48373-60010? Any preferred vendors for King springs? Cruiser Patch is out of stock and ebay is the only non-AU site I found.

My mods include removing the third row and filling the truck with camping junk 😆. I do have a hidden winch incoming soon. Any recommendations on suspension config (e.g. crank vs switch torsion bars, space vs coil)? My height measurement was within ~3/8" of spec all around.

I'll get back to you emiliobarbarigo with the amazon link for the techstream cable I purchased. It works fine and it came with a CD of software. I set up a Windows 7 virtual machine.
Your Mpa are to high. You may blow globes, riding like that.
You can lower rear pressure. By moving rear sensor, lowering rear, which drops rear pressure. Then move front sensor to get 3/4" lower (rake) or more, front vs rear. Adjust T-bars to bring pressure in line at 6.9Mpa. Added front end weight, you may like frt 6.7Mpa.

Kings are only needed, if sensor lift or some heavy weights.

I use OME or any cheap poly spacer. On OEM AHC coils, they'll help reduce pressure. On non AHC coils, they also lift.

AHC T-bar are fine. Unless your a fully built heavyweight. Some will still use AHC T-bars. The LC t-bars and kings in a heavy. Has it's place off road reliability (getting off the rock in a AHC failure)

To say "within spec 3/8" ". Whos spec. Toyota actually has us check grond up to points under vehicle. The axle to fender is a made up short cut. I see 19 1/2" front as spec in mud. It is not what I see in stock. Stock front I see, closer the 19 3/16, rear ~ 20"

Auto part especially those coming from oversea. Are skyrocketing rights now. Even Toyota USA dealership parts, just took a big jump this month. Some 50% even a 100%. Tariffs, dutees, fees and sanction, we're F**%$!
 
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Check to see if they're contacting the body. If they are then you essentially eliminate the vibration damping of the rubber body mounts and send vibration from the frame to the body.
Here is what they look like

 
Here is a link to an OBD2 cable for techstream. It's sold by the same brand (DiagKing) that I bought my cable from. If you can figure out how to set up a Windows 7 virtual machine, you just need to install this software in the virtual machine and connect this cable. It's a big ask for someone with not much advanced computer experience, but definitely possible. I recommend using youtube, ih8Mud, and chatgpt/claude to solve it.
 
Here is a link to an OBD2 cable for techstream. It's sold by the same brand (DiagKing) that I bought my cable from. If you can figure out how to set up a Windows 7 virtual machine, you just need to install this software in the virtual machine and connect this cable. It's a big ask for someone with not much advanced computer experience, but definitely possible. I recommend using youtube, ih8Mud, and chatgpt/claude to solve it.
Just about any "Mini VCI J534" cable will work.
It's just a OBDII to USB-A cable. Nothing special.
Just remember to NOT use the POS virus/malware ridden software that comes with them.
ABC's of AHC has everything you need to get a virtual machine up and running. The only cost is the cable (which should be like $20-30 not $50) and maybe a old cheap laptop if you don't already have one.
Refurb laptop and cable was like $150 for me off amazon a few months ago.
 
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