orangefj45
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- #81
a pic of the finished "frame rails" for the skid plate:
Builds reviving "isabel" (1 Viewer)
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orangefj45
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i sent the transfer case input shaft off to AA today so they can exchange it for the 27 spline unit i need. i also finally got a chance to buy the starter butch recomended and got it bolted up tonite. works perfect, even got core credit for a crusty old cruiser starter. thanks for the tip butch!!!! also got some delco plug wires but my lower back is really giving me a hard time so i cleaned up in the garage a little and off to the computer to do some surfin'.
more to come later in the week.
more to come later in the week.
Those look good Georg good thing we didn't swap that mill for a drill pressorangefj45 said:
Hope the back is ok
nice job with those frame rails!! Couldn't push it up that last 1" to get the skid flush with the bottom of the frame tho? I have about 1/2" between the 700R pan and the rail-mounted flat skid plate....tightest point on my whole setup is the dimple on the bottom of the D300 cover.
Yer right, that AA piece is a beast, and forces you into a very low mount.....
Where are you hearing concerns with the mounts? With my triple-bushed mounting to the bottom of the 700R, I don't anticipate any issues....'bout the only way something could bust is if the adapter itself junked or the bolts into the tranny or t-case junked (of those, the 4 into the tranny would be my only concern....)
Yer right, that AA piece is a beast, and forces you into a very low mount.....
Where are you hearing concerns with the mounts? With my triple-bushed mounting to the bottom of the 700R, I don't anticipate any issues....'bout the only way something could bust is if the adapter itself junked or the bolts into the tranny or t-case junked (of those, the 4 into the tranny would be my only concern....)
orangefj45
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- #85
my concern with the AA parts:
i have seen a few of the adapters crack in half right above the mount surface. don't wanna go thru that.
i am also not a big fan of those mounts since the break from the engine torquing to the side. the wider mount distributes the load better and holds up a lot better under these circumstances.
the frame rails. i had to mount them low cause the atlas will be hanging down some on the passenger side. at least this way the frame rivetts won't be hanging up on the rocks.
i have seen a few of the adapters crack in half right above the mount surface. don't wanna go thru that.
i am also not a big fan of those mounts since the break from the engine torquing to the side. the wider mount distributes the load better and holds up a lot better under these circumstances.
the frame rails. i had to mount them low cause the atlas will be hanging down some on the passenger side. at least this way the frame rivetts won't be hanging up on the rocks.
hhhhmm....torque...
IMO, if you are rocking a mount side to side with two very close together bolts, it would rock pretty easily....if you try and rock with much wider spacing, it would rock much more difficult. In that sense, the least stress to the mount and to the bolts is with a very tightly spaced mount, and "ideal" might be a single center bolt which would all but eliminate stress due to torque/rock.
(talking off the top of my head here..... )
add: effectively, a single rear bolt (or closely spaced bolts like the stock 2wd mount) mounts the motor and tranny in a triangle fashion....a widely-spaced rear mount pushes into a more square mounting, and creates additional stresses at all 4 points during driveline twist/torque....
IMO, if you are rocking a mount side to side with two very close together bolts, it would rock pretty easily....if you try and rock with much wider spacing, it would rock much more difficult. In that sense, the least stress to the mount and to the bolts is with a very tightly spaced mount, and "ideal" might be a single center bolt which would all but eliminate stress due to torque/rock.
(talking off the top of my head here.....
)add: effectively, a single rear bolt (or closely spaced bolts like the stock 2wd mount) mounts the motor and tranny in a triangle fashion....a widely-spaced rear mount pushes into a more square mounting, and creates additional stresses at all 4 points during driveline twist/torque....
orangefj45
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that is true. the aa mount can be used with a pair of bolts or with one single bolt right in the middle.
however, the engine mounts only allow it to torque less than let's say 3deg, so there's not that much rotation going on to start with. i think the reasons why the smaller mounts are failing is that there's just not enough material to absorb the stress and they rip easier. almost every time we rebuilt a trans at the shop that utilized one of thos mounts, we'd have to replace them cause they were either torn or ripped right in half.
i figure since i'm basiaclly using the same engine/trans/t-case setup as a gm truck, i'll try to run the same mount as well cause they're very reliable.
however, the engine mounts only allow it to torque less than let's say 3deg, so there's not that much rotation going on to start with. i think the reasons why the smaller mounts are failing is that there's just not enough material to absorb the stress and they rip easier. almost every time we rebuilt a trans at the shop that utilized one of thos mounts, we'd have to replace them cause they were either torn or ripped right in half.
i figure since i'm basiaclly using the same engine/trans/t-case setup as a gm truck, i'll try to run the same mount as well cause they're very reliable.
orangefj45
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well, it's been a tough week so i had to make a tough decision. i have to abandon this project and it's officially for sale. i need the $ in a hurry so the first $5k gets it all. 
Georg, Sorry to hear that 
if there is anything I can do other than buying it let me know.
Tim
if there is anything I can do other than buying it let me know.Tim
I call april fools, ya bastid....
I still think the long distance from the center of the case rotation to the bottom of the mount is a long lever and part of the issue....also remember, GM trucks have minimal frame flex compared to an offroaded Cruiser, so keep that in mind.
I still think the long distance from the center of the case rotation to the bottom of the mount is a long lever and part of the issue....also remember, GM trucks have minimal frame flex compared to an offroaded Cruiser, so keep that in mind.
Texican
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calfj60 said:Georg, Sorry to hear that
Tim
I will echo Tim's comment.........just hope it's just finances......holler if I can help.
Butch
orangefj45
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thanks for the encouraging words.
and woody is right. april fools, dumb-asses!!!!!!! ;p
but it's nice to see some help being offered. makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.
and woody is right. april fools, dumb-asses!!!!!!! ;p
but it's nice to see some help being offered. makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.
Texican
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I proclaim you , Orange45 a "dick'' in the Grogan way of "dickdom",
here I am, being all caring and PM"n you and s***..............
to quote Kowboy, "That just ain't right"
here I am, being all caring and PM"n you and s***..............
to quote Kowboy, "That just ain't right"
orangefj45
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i'll take that compliment!
orangefj45
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my lower back finally felt good enought to do some "light duty" work so on saturday i decided to clean up the garage, get the bead blaster put together and hooked up (it's about time, i've had it for 3 years) and do some engine "dress up" stuff.
i wanted to run part of the stock fuel lines, so i trimmed off the ends and flared them for some rubber line to connect them to the tank. i'll have to bend them some behind the engine to point them towards the passenger side, but they should work out perfect:
i wanted to run part of the stock fuel lines, so i trimmed off the ends and flared them for some rubber line to connect them to the tank. i'll have to bend them some behind the engine to point them towards the passenger side, but they should work out perfect:
orangefj45
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next i started to mount my york compressor. i bought a bracket from kilby enterprises www.onboardair.com that allows you to moun the york in the stock aluminum bracket for the round style gm compressor. fits perfect!
orangefj45
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the only minor problem with the york so far is that it ends up "intercepting" the stock engione oil dip stick.
orangefj45
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i pulled off the dip stick tube, grabbed the tubing bender and it works again. if you bend the tube at too much of an angle, the dip stick will bind up.
orangefj45
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i also installed the studs for the exhaust manifolds as can be seen in the pic above, but first i ran a "thread chaser" (similar to a tap) thru every exhaust post bolt hole just to make sure i was'nt going to have any problems with a bad or plugged thread. also, it's important to remove any excess paint from the exhaust manifold mounting surface otherwise you end up with leaks, so i did that right before installing the bolts.
here's a pic of a thread chaser:
here's a pic of a thread chaser:
orangefj45
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the only other thing i got done before cleaning up my tools and calling it a night was to knock all the studs out of the front spindles/rotors.