Resto Q & A
- Thread starter RedOx
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- #202
Needing some advice. Took the clutch out and put it back in. Verified spring side depends on mfg which is correct from the label. Some mfgs put the flywheel side on the snout and others do not. All that is correct but now going by the FSM, the fingers are supposed to be at 74 mm from the rear face of bellhousing. Mine are off by 2mm. Does anyone know how to adjust the height on a 3 finger clutch? I have read some of the stories on here and I'm not skipping this.
I think there is a procedure in the Haynes manual. I'm sure the factory manual covers it too. It is adjusted by a jam nut. Depth part of a dial caliper, 6" Stainless steel rule in 1/64.
Yea silicon is on my roof.
Yea silicon is on my roof.
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- #204
Thank you that will at least get me in the right direction. I have the Haynes manual so I will go over that section again. I messed with one of the hex bolts below one of the fingers and it does loosen the finger and make it drop but there is no way to keep the bolt tight. I'm hoping it's possible to adjust it without having to take this thing out and reinstall it. But I have seen people do it by bolting the cover to a table and using a threaded rod, plate, and nut as a make shift press.
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- #206
1-13 now found it. Mentions the lock nut. Don't believe I can get to that without removing it again LOL. Glad I bought the big bottle of threadlocker. Maybe if I start painting all new parts electric orange before installing them, they will default to spec. 
firemanj92
SILVER Star
You can get to it thru the inspection plate without removing whole trans, it's just a little tight. I've had to do the adjustments to the 3 fingers this way. It helps if you have an offset wrench too. Just loosen jam nut, measure/twist finger bolt, relock jam nut x31-13 now found it. Mentions the lock nut. Don't believe I can get to that without removing it again LOL. Glad I bought the big bottle of threadlocker. Maybe if I start painting all new parts electric orange before installing them, they will default to spec.
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I would use the harsh chemicals to clean the radiator and block with the old rad. When the block is clean put in the new rad.
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- #210
Can anyone advise on which holes that need to be plugged on the carb when you remove the emissions unit? I have a hose running from the dizzy but I don't know which port on the carb it goes to. It's an F.5 and I have not removed the plunger from the dizzy yet so I assume I still need to keep the hose hooked up. Also do we need to put these water temp sensors in with teflon? I'm getting steam around the carb and around the temp sensors after replacing one of the sensors. The exhaust is extremely stinky and super black suit. Assuming fuel mixture is too high.
Plug the two on the gizmo on the forward end of the intake manifold. The one on the DS base of the carb would go to your throttle positioner. Keep the PCV. I've got one vacuum line from the PS base of the carb to dizzy, some carbs have it, some don't. A Guru can put one in if you want it.
Could be leaking on the outside threads or it could be leaking threw the inside of the sensor.
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- #214
Took it out for the first drive. was able to go about a mile, and it seemed to shift into second gear fine but would not go faster despite RPMs going up. Eventually engine began to overheat and clutch would not disengage from transmission. Clutch is brand new. I adjusted the three fingers length according to factory manual. I ensured the pressure plate was pointed in the right direction. Any clue as to what is causing this?
Bleed the clutch. Engine rpm's go up and wheel speed doesn't > clutch is slipping. Clutch doesn't disengage > wrong adjustment.
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- #216
After this, it started getting around 220 on the temp gauge and would not run anymore. Do you think any catastrophic damage happened? It starts up fine now but oil pressure drops to around 50 after startup.
Maybe at zero degrees I could get 50 psi of oil pressure for any length of time.
My rig mostly runs right in the middle of the temp gauge. Park on a steep grade - open the radiator, let idle until you see the coolant level surge several times - this will remove any air bubble - make sure heater valve is open so there isn't any trapped air there either. Top it off - it will push out some as it heats up.
You need to check the valve lash. Same for timing. How old is the gas, put on an new filter (let the old one dry in the sun for a few days - it will be like new again) check for vacuum leaks with a spray can.
My rig mostly runs right in the middle of the temp gauge. Park on a steep grade - open the radiator, let idle until you see the coolant level surge several times - this will remove any air bubble - make sure heater valve is open so there isn't any trapped air there either. Top it off - it will push out some as it heats up.
You need to check the valve lash. Same for timing. How old is the gas, put on an new filter (let the old one dry in the sun for a few days - it will be like new again) check for vacuum leaks with a spray can.
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- #218
When I check for leaks with a spray can, will the engine rev up due to sucking those fumes in? If so does that mean replacing whatever gasket the leak is on?
I use WD-40 with a pee tube. Quickly and lightly spray along the gasket while engine is idling - if/when rpm's kick up there is your leak.
Well you could try and retorque the unit in proper sequence to see if it will seal. When I install any fibered gasket, I soak it in warm water for like 1/4 to 1/2 an hour - that softens it up so the high spots can sink in easy. I usually do the torque sequence in order by 1/3 - for example if the torque spec is 90#' I would go 30, 60 then 90.
I look that the mating surfaces. Clean and free of any old compound or gasket. If something was over torqued, threads/studs/bolts can pull which can make a high spot that will not seal well. Then there are dent and dings or warping from heat/pressure Needle file, precision flat stone or a piece of sandpaper on a piece of flat glass can be use to flatten the surface.
I like Permatex Aviation Type B if I need to use sealant (non-hardening) like on water pump bolts. Also a big fan of either anti seize compound or Loctite on fasteners.
Well you could try and retorque the unit in proper sequence to see if it will seal. When I install any fibered gasket, I soak it in warm water for like 1/4 to 1/2 an hour - that softens it up so the high spots can sink in easy. I usually do the torque sequence in order by 1/3 - for example if the torque spec is 90#' I would go 30, 60 then 90.
I look that the mating surfaces. Clean and free of any old compound or gasket. If something was over torqued, threads/studs/bolts can pull which can make a high spot that will not seal well. Then there are dent and dings or warping from heat/pressure Needle file, precision flat stone or a piece of sandpaper on a piece of flat glass can be use to flatten the surface.
I like Permatex Aviation Type B if I need to use sealant (non-hardening) like on water pump bolts. Also a big fan of either anti seize compound or Loctite on fasteners.
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- #220
Great advice thank you!