Replacing brakeline to rear drivers side (1 Viewer)

Joined
Mar 6, 2021
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Hello,
I just bought my first 2000 Lc on Wednesday and obviously started work right away. The rear driver's side brakeline (front to rear) was leaking horribly so I ordered the part #( 47322-60732($85.30)). Very easy to replace.

ALSO- do not put any pastes, ect on the threads.
Front connection can be found behind ds front tire, pop two tabs and bend it back and you will see it.
Tip: cut line with metal snipers and use a 10mm bolt extractor to get the threads out super easy.
Hand tighten then go with a 10mm wrench 🔧 and tighten till hand tight with that. That's all you need. Will not leak if done correctly.

After words jack up on good spot on axle, remove tire, pop off the cover for brake bleeder, use a 10mm socket to loosen a small bit (mine was rusted shut a bit), then tighten back up quickly and attach a 1/2in tubing I believe to a container above the brake to get air out. Have someone pump the brake until hard, open the valve, depress brake and close once no more bubbles are coming or before the brake hits the floor. Refill fluid.

Also don't forget glasses- nothing like rust and dirt in the eyes.
Just posted this to assist someone else as it went super quick for me :)

Screenshot_20210306-200217.png
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2021
Messages
19
Location
Usa
Hello,
I just bought my first 2000 Lc on Wednesday and obviously started work right away. The rear driver's side brakeline (front to rear) was leaking horribly so I ordered the part #( 47322-60732($85.30)). Very easy to replace.

ALSO- do not put any pastes, ect on the threads.
Front connection can be found behind ds front tire, pop two tabs and bend it back and you will see it.
Tip: cut line with metal snipers and use a 10mm bolt extractor to get the threads out super easy.
Hand tighten then go with a 10mm wrench 🔧 and tighten till hand tight with that. That's all you need. Will not leak if done correctly.

After words jack up on good spot on axle, remove tire, pop off the cover for brake bleeder, use a 10mm socket to loosen a small bit (mine was rusted shut a bit), then tighten back up quickly and attach a 1/2in tubing I believe to a container above the brake to get air out. Have someone pump the brake until hard, open the valve, depress brake and close once no more bubbles are coming or before the brake hits the floor. Refill fluid.

Also don't forget glasses- nothing like rust and dirt in the eyes.
Just posted this to assist someone else as it went super quick for me :)

View attachment 2605515
 

JunkCrzr89

Competent Ignoramoose
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Jul 21, 2019
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Colorado
Hand tighten then go with a 10mm wrench 🔧 and tighten till hand tight with that. That's all you need. Will not leak if done correctly.
Correctly = 10mm crowfoot wrench on a 1/4” torque wrench and torqued to 8 ft-lbf.
Have someone pump the brake until hard, open the valve, depress brake and close once no more bubbles are coming or before the brake hits the floor. Refill fluid.
Per the FSM, Should turn key to ON (but engine off) so that the booster pump motor runs to pump the air out. Also, never add fluid to the reservoir without first turning the key to OFF and pumping brake pedal ~30-40 times until it drops out to evacuate the accumulator. Otherwise you risk overfilling the system, which can lead to major and expensive problems down the line.
 
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
248
Location
Shade, Ohio
good and all, and yeah fill brake fluid properly after engine is off and pedal pumped a long time. But real bad news is that you really should change all the hardlines. If one is that rusty, they all probably are ready to go. Alternatively, if you really really dont want to do that, make or get some brake line plugs and keep in car. When one pops, plug it right at the master cylinder to disable that wheel and get you home slowly.
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2021
Messages
19
Location
Usa
good and all, and yeah fill brake fluid properly after engine is off and pedal pumped a long time. But real bad news is that you really should change all the hardlines. If one is that rusty, they all probably are ready to go. Alternatively, if you really really dont want to do that, make or get some brake line plugs and keep in car. When one pops, plug it right at the master cylinder to disable that wheel and get you home slowly.
I checked them to make sure it wasn't horrible, just cause they arnt too cheap. But I will definitely get some plugs thank you for the idea 👍
 
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
248
Location
Shade, Ohio
I don't know why this forum keeps trying to kill my amazon link, but it was "

Brake Line Plugs, 10mm 1.0 Bubble, Pair, Compatible with Dune Buggy​

Brand: Empi" 18-1103-0

No longer available on amazon, but maybe you can get it elsewhere.
 
Joined
Mar 6, 2021
Messages
19
Location
Usa
I don't know why this forum keeps trying to kill my amazon link, but it was "

Brake Line Plugs, 10mm 1.0 Bubble, Pair, Compatible with Dune Buggy​

Brand: Empi" 18-1103-0

No longer available on amazon, but maybe you can get it elsewhere.
I was able to see it and heart it on Amazon, and after having owned a POS ford I have gotten used to matching thread size, ect. I appreciate the links and idea cause I didn't even think of this 😁
 
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Messages
248
Location
Shade, Ohio
The other options are vise grips to pinch a line shut, or threading in a random bolt with teflon tape or thread locker, but thinking ahead and getting proper threads will keep you from drizzling brake fluid all the way home.
 

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