Replacement for heater elbow on 2F ... size and thread

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fyton2v

fyton2v

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Hi. I've searched and I can't find info specific enough to ensure I'm about to do the right thing. I'm cleaning out my cooling system and the heater core (because it doesn't work well). It's a little rusty in there. I know the heater elbow doesn't have much life left, so I should replace it while the system is dry-ish. Looking at the part, it's really 2 elbows. One for the head and one for the hose. It looks like SOR sells a brass straight thread-to-barb replacement. Is that what people do? That hose coming from the valve cover would be in the way, a bit.

And after searching, is the elbow connecting to the head is supposed to be 1/2 NPT, or is it 1/2 NPT from the hose 90 to the head 90? And the hose is 5/8? Curious if any of you have replaced these two 90 connections and how you did just that. Another thought, brass connectors from a big box store would probably work, but they are also probably not rated for temps above 160 degrees. And that doesn't sound like a real world problem for the pressure inside the the 2Fs cooling system, but throwing it out there.

Thanks for the help.


Elbow
 
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73FJ40

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@fyton2v

The port on the head has 1/2 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) threads.

Regular brass pipe and fittings are readily capable of handling coolant with maximum pressures of under 20 psig and temperatures of under 300 deg. F.
 
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3_puppies

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Why do you think the elbow doesn't have much life left?
they should last the life of the engine.
I don't recall that fitting ever failing, but I could be wrong
IIRCC the valve cover will need to be removed to remove the vertical piece, the horizontal piece will need to be seperated from the vertical, you will need to remove the air injection rail, the sender unit needs removed also, I can't remember if there is more to take apart to remove that fitting
 
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fyton2v

fyton2v

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Plumbing project! Sweet. Thanks @73FJ40.

I took the hose off the heater elbow and that particular part is pretty corroded with rust. I think... now that he parts are off... that the heater valve is flowing too slow, too. It's also fairly corroded around the edges and who knows what it looks like at the valve. I'll just get a new one, and while I'm at it I want to fix the other rusty bits. the heater core and rear heater flow nicely, so I think I'm good there.

I really down't want to remove the air injector rail for fear of busting it. I'll have to measure to see if the replacement fittings will clear it. I hope so, but damn if they don't I'll be sad.
 
GA Architect

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Hi. I've searched and I can't find info specific enough to ensure I'm about to do the right thing. I'm cleaning out my cooling system and the heater core (because it doesn't work well). It's a little rusty in there. I know the heater elbow doesn't have much life left, so I should replace it while the system is dry-ish. Looking at the part, it's really 2 elbows. One for the head and one for the hose. It looks like SOR sells a brass straight thread-to-barb replacement. Is that what people do? That hose coming from the valve cover would be in the way, a bit.

And after searching, is the elbow connecting to the head is supposed to be 1/2 NPT, or is it 1/2 NPT from the hose 90 to the head 90? And the hose is 5/8? Curious if any of you have replaced these two 90 connections and how you did just that. Another thought, brass connectors from a big box store would probably work, but they are also probably not rated for temps above 160 degrees. And that doesn't sound like a real world problem for the pressure inside the the 2Fs cooling system, but throwing it out there.

Thanks for the help.


View attachment 2857424

Here is the option that I went with when mine was leaking. I installed a Toyota OEM unit, 87251-30200.

1638841350595


1638841540067
 
fyton2v

fyton2v

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Here is the option that I went with when mine was leaking. I installed a Toyota OEM unit, 87251-30200.

Hmmm. That's a completely different union. Are you happy with how it works and you don't have clearance issues with the relief port on the valve cover? I suppose the heater hose will bend around it. Also, is that teflon tape? It'll last at normal head temps?
 
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ToyotaMatt

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Thanks! Will go that route.


have you decided on a UNION Fitting yet ?


i have some unique OEM toyota options for you ...

LINKS and Photos below :













1639047839803

1639047877260

1639047895788
 
fyton2v

fyton2v

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Thanks Matt. Didn't know your company existed and ordered an OEM straight union from one of the big online places. I took a look at your site and almost lost it when I thought you had an OEM radio in stock :).
 
GA Architect

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have you decided on a UNION Fitting yet ?


i have some unique OEM toyota options for you ...

LINKS and Photos below :












View attachment 2859768
View attachment 2859769
View attachment 2859770

When I replaced the heater line joint, my initial thought was to go with one of Matt's below....But the more I thought, the more I did not see how using this joint and connecting the heater hose wouldn't cause a kink in the line as it needed to turn up sharply to get over the valve cover.

1639063338179
1639063677047


Now if the joints above were installed, and it works out that the outlet is basically pointing towards the rear of the engine bay, then maybe a molded heater hose (Gates 28471) like below would be a good option?

1639064569385
 
ToyotaMatt

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When I replaced the heater line joint, my initial thought was to go with one of Matt's below....But the more I thought, the more I did not see how using this joint and connecting the heater hose wouldn't cause a kink in the line as it needed to turn up sharply to get over the valve cover.

View attachment 2859926 View attachment 2859932

Now if the joints above were installed, and it works out that the outlet is basically pointing towards the rear of the engine bay, then maybe a molded heater hose (Gates 28471) like below would be a good option?

View attachment 2859939
Thanks Matt. Didn't know your company existed and ordered an OEM straight union from one of the big online places. I took a look at your site and almost lost it when I thought you had an OEM radio in stock :).


Rick brings up a unique point here ,


the FJ60 and FJ40 Fire walls are very different in profile and such ...


how evrer we are both talking about a 2F too ?


this parts specimine Below is indeed related to how you loop around the heater hose , out or up initially , then start to gradually , the some what radically U turn the heater hose from the cylinder head to the Heater Control Valve on the passenger side outer fire wall



the straight tube Rick explains very well indeed , could be a path or option for sure , .........


but the OEM original routing paths changed a bit here and there over the years too ..........


SEE Tech Examples Below please


Thanks Rick for your Valued input here , and for chiming in from the straight UNION prospective .......... :)




also :

I Carry the Straight Fitting Rick has installed also , if you decide to go that route

there may simply not be a right or wrong answer here , or simply indeed 2 releevent and good choices to make ........

i personally installed the BRONZ 45> angle one on my 1983 FJ43L-KC for one main simple reason :


you DO NOT have to pull the valve cover to remove it ever .....


Rick's union offers this same exact Fringe benefit too ....


oh also , and BTW , My wife erin and ALWAYS give our fist Time Clients and Customers 10% off there entire first Purchase , no rules or limits only just right .....


please PM me to discuss this furter , i can help you create a LOGIn ID etc


thanks

kindly
matt









1639068066487
 
ToyotaMatt

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i DO have
Thanks Matt. Didn't know your company existed and ordered an OEM straight union from one of the big online places. I took a look at your site and almost lost it when I thought you had an OEM radio in stock :).

Thanks !

wife and i work super hard to make what we can happen ....


i DO have Fully Functional and Verified Bench tested Oem Radios available for your 1978 FJ40


again please PM me to further discuss , as this is a TECH Forum and i like to keep it that way after a initial inquire and such '


thanks





12 Copy
 

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