Replacement for heater elbow on 2F ... size and thread

[fyton2v]

Hi. I've searched and I can't find info specific enough to ensure I'm about to do the right thing. I'm cleaning out my cooling system and the heater core (because it doesn't work well). It's a little rusty in there. I know the heater elbow doesn't have much life left, so I should replace it while the system is dry-ish. Looking at the part, it's really 2 elbows. One for the head and one for the hose. It looks like SOR sells a brass straight thread-to-barb replacement. Is that what people do? That hose coming from the valve cover would be in the way, a bit.

And after searching, is the elbow connecting to the head is supposed to be 1/2 NPT, or is it 1/2 NPT from the hose 90 to the head 90? And the hose is 5/8? Curious if any of you have replaced these two 90 connections and how you did just that. Another thought, brass connectors from a big box store would probably work, but they are also probably not rated for temps above 160 degrees. And that doesn't sound like a real world problem for the pressure inside the the 2Fs cooling system, but throwing it out there.

Thanks for the help.

 

[73FJ40]

@fyton2v

The port on the head has 1/2 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) threads.

Regular brass pipe and fittings are readily capable of handling coolant with maximum pressures of under 20 psig and temperatures of under 300 deg. F.

 

[3_puppies]

Why do you think the elbow doesn't have much life left?
they should last the life of the engine.
I don't recall that fitting ever failing, but I could be wrong
IIRCC the valve cover will need to be removed to remove the vertical piece, the horizontal piece will need to be seperated from the vertical, you will need to remove the air injection rail, the sender unit needs removed also, I can't remember if there is more to take apart to remove that fitting

 

[fyton2v]

Plumbing project! Sweet. Thanks @73FJ40.

I took the hose off the heater elbow and that particular part is pretty corroded with rust. I think... now that he parts are off... that the heater valve is flowing too slow, too. It's also fairly corroded around the edges and who knows what it looks like at the valve. I'll just get a new one, and while I'm at it I want to fix the other rusty bits. the heater core and rear heater flow nicely, so I think I'm good there.

I really down't want to remove the air injector rail for fear of busting it. I'll have to measure to see if the replacement fittings will clear it. I hope so, but damn if they don't I'll be sad.

 

[GA Architect]

Hi. I've searched and I can't find info specific enough to ensure I'm about to do the right thing. I'm cleaning out my cooling system and the heater core (because it doesn't work well). It's a little rusty in there. I know the heater elbow doesn't have much life left, so I should replace it while the system is dry-ish. Looking at the part, it's really 2 elbows. One for the head and one for the hose. It looks like SOR sells a brass straight thread-to-barb replacement. Is that what people do? That hose coming from the valve cover would be in the way, a bit.

And after searching, is the elbow connecting to the head is supposed to be 1/2 NPT, or is it 1/2 NPT from the hose 90 to the head 90? And the hose is 5/8? Curious if any of you have replaced these two 90 connections and how you did just that. Another thought, brass connectors from a big box store would probably work, but they are also probably not rated for temps above 160 degrees. And that doesn't sound like a real world problem for the pressure inside the the 2Fs cooling system, but throwing it out there.

Thanks for the help.


View attachment 2857424

Here is the option that I went with when mine was leaking. I installed a Toyota OEM unit, 87251-30200.

 

[fyton2v]

Here is the option that I went with when mine was leaking. I installed a Toyota OEM unit, 87251-30200.

Hmmm. That's a completely different union. Are you happy with how it works and you don't have clearance issues with the relief port on the valve cover? I suppose the heater hose will bend around it. Also, is that teflon tape? It'll last at normal head temps?

 

[GA Architect]

Happy as can be. Here it is after 3 years and about 15K to 20K miles…not leaking yet.

 

[fyton2v]

Thanks! Will go that route.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks! Will go that route.

have you decided on a UNION Fitting yet ?


i have some unique OEM toyota options for you ...

LINKS and Photos below :

#3 NON-USA OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B , 3FE - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B ,2H , 22R,...

vintageteqparts.com

VintageTEqParts.com

vintageteqparts.com

#4 NON-USA OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B , 3FE - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B ,2H , 22R,...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[fyton2v]

Thanks Matt. Didn't know your company existed and ordered an OEM straight union from one of the big online places. I took a look at your site and almost lost it when I thought you had an OEM radio in stock .

 

[GA Architect]

have you decided on a UNION Fitting yet ?


i have some unique OEM toyota options for you ...

LINKS and Photos below :

#3 NON-USA OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B , 3FE - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B ,2H , 22R,...

vintageteqparts.com

VintageTEqParts.com

vintageteqparts.com

#4 NON-USA OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B , 3FE - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B ,2H , 22R,...

vintageteqparts.com

View attachment 2859768
View attachment 2859769
View attachment 2859770

When I replaced the heater line joint, my initial thought was to go with one of Matt's below....But the more I thought, the more I did not see how using this joint and connecting the heater hose wouldn't cause a kink in the line as it needed to turn up sharply to get over the valve cover.

Now if the joints above were installed, and it works out that the outlet is basically pointing towards the rear of the engine bay, then maybe a molded heater hose (Gates 28471) like below would be a good option?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

When I replaced the heater line joint, my initial thought was to go with one of Matt's below....But the more I thought, the more I did not see how using this joint and connecting the heater hose wouldn't cause a kink in the line as it needed to turn up sharply to get over the valve cover.

View attachment 2859926 View attachment 2859932

Now if the joints above were installed, and it works out that the outlet is basically pointing towards the rear of the engine bay, then maybe a molded heater hose (Gates 28471) like below would be a good option?

View attachment 2859939

Thanks Matt. Didn't know your company existed and ordered an OEM straight union from one of the big online places. I took a look at your site and almost lost it when I thought you had an OEM radio in stock .

Rick brings up a unique point here ,


the FJ60 and FJ40 Fire walls are very different in profile and such ...


how evrer we are both talking about a 2F too ?


this parts specimine Below is indeed related to how you loop around the heater hose , out or up initially , then start to gradually , the some what radically U turn the heater hose from the cylinder head to the Heater Control Valve on the passenger side outer fire wall



the straight tube Rick explains very well indeed , could be a path or option for sure , .........


but the OEM original routing paths changed a bit here and there over the years too ..........


SEE Tech Examples Below please


Thanks Rick for your Valued input here , and for chiming in from the straight UNION prospective ..........




also :

I Carry the Straight Fitting Rick has installed also , if you decide to go that route

there may simply not be a right or wrong answer here , or simply indeed 2 releevent and good choices to make ........

i personally installed the BRONZ 45> angle one on my 1983 FJ43L-KC for one main simple reason :


you DO NOT have to pull the valve cover to remove it ever .....


Rick's union offers this same exact Fringe benefit too ....


oh also , and BTW , My wife erin and ALWAYS give our fist Time Clients and Customers 10% off there entire first Purchase , no rules or limits only just right .....


please PM me to discuss this furter , i can help you create a LOGIn ID etc


thanks

kindly
matt

OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B , - VintageTEqParts.com

OEM TOYOTA Cooling System Union / Joint / Fitting Cylinder Head F 1.5 , 2F , 3B ,2H , 22R...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[ToyotaMatt]

i DO have

Thanks Matt. Didn't know your company existed and ordered an OEM straight union from one of the big online places. I took a look at your site and almost lost it when I thought you had an OEM radio in stock .

Thanks !

wife and i work super hard to make what we can happen ....


i DO have Fully Functional and Verified Bench tested Oem Radios available for your 1978 FJ40


again please PM me to further discuss , as this is a TECH Forum and i like to keep it that way after a initial inquire and such '


thanks

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hi. I've searched and I can't find info specific enough to ensure I'm about to do the right thing. I'm cleaning out my cooling system and the heater core (because it doesn't work well). It's a little rusty in there. I know the heater elbow doesn't have much life left, so I should replace it while the system is dry-ish. Looking at the part, it's really 2 elbows. One for the head and one for the hose. It looks like SOR sells a brass straight thread-to-barb replacement. Is that what people do? That hose coming from the valve cover would be in the way, a bit.

And after searching, is the elbow connecting to the head is supposed to be 1/2 NPT, or is it 1/2 NPT from the hose 90 to the head 90? And the hose is 5/8? Curious if any of you have replaced these two 90 connections and how you did just that. Another thought, brass connectors from a big box store would probably work, but they are also probably not rated for temps above 160 degrees. And that doesn't sound like a real world problem for the pressure inside the the 2Fs cooling system, but throwing it out there.

Thanks for the help.


View attachment 2857424

.

progress takes time .....
.

( THE 2nd ULTIMATE CAT'S MEOW ) UNION HOSE BIB 90' Degree Angle Cylinder Head & Early Threaded Water Pump Outlet Heater Hose Bib Fitting Union Assy. Part # 90404-60010 / 60011 - VintageTEqParts.com

( THE 2ND ULTIMATE CAT'S MEOW ) - 90' Degree Angle Cylinder Head & Early Threaded Water Pump Outlet Heater...

vintageteqparts.com

.

 

[MAR FJ40]

Here is the option that I went with when mine was leaking. I installed a Toyota OEM unit, 87251-30200.

View attachment 2857724

View attachment 2857732

Reviving an old thread. I am using this fitting and have it in the same original port on the head. The depth of the port is relatively shallow but I never had problems getting coolant flow over to the heater control valve but I can't seem to get it to flow.

I have tried many steps to get it to flow over including bypassing the heater valve altogether to remove that variable. I added a in-line bleeder valve i can open to release any trapped air at its highest point. I have pre-filled the hose and I have also elevated the front so the radiator cap is the highest point. Nothing has worked. I believe the fitting may be bottoming out on the head.... I pulled it back off, and put it back on trying not to tighten is down as much and still no flow. There is not a ton of resistance as I am tightening it down so I am tightening until I get at least a bit of resistance. Maybe I'm still bottoming out, just feels weird to only spin it down with little resistance and call it good but maybe that is what I need to try.

Anyone else run into this?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Interesting. I seem to recall that the port is really shallow right there. You should be able to look inside the fitting and see the head and if there is any space left for coolant to pass.

Are you sure the head isn't full of crud in the jacket? Try pouring coolant into the open port, or blow in some low pressure air and listen at the open radiator cap

Remove fitting, measure the thickness of the boss on the head say 3/8". Trim/hacksaw the fitting off at 3/8" from the bottom of the wrench flats. File the new end of the fitting so it will start and thread in correctly. Use several wraps of teflon tape starting from the open end and winding up at the wrench flats. It should tighten down firmly and leave enough room for coolant flow.

Some time back a guy went to drill out a factory plug at that location after he rounded the wrench flats. He drilled right into the intake/exhaust passage, and then had to D/T a plug in that hole.

 

[MAR FJ40]

Interesting. I seem to recall that the port is really shallow right there. You should be able to look inside the fitting and see the head and if there is any space left for coolant to pass.

Are you sure the head isn't full of crud in the jacket? Try pouring coolant into the open port, or blow in some low pressure air and listen at the open radiator cap

Remove fitting, measure the thickness of the boss on the head say 3/8". Trim/hacksaw the fitting off at 3/8" from the bottom of the wrench flats. File the new end of the fitting so it will start and thread in correctly. Use several wraps of teflon tape starting from the open end and winding up at the wrench flats. It should tighten down firmly and leave enough room for coolant flow.

Some time back a guy went to drill out a factory plug at that location after he rounded the wrench flats. He drilled right into the intake/exhaust passage, and then had to D/T a plug in that hole.

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. Totally rebuilt 2F, pretty sure no crud exists. I do seem to remember sticking my finger down in the port to feel around. I think I'll measure as you suggested and mark the threads where it leaves some passage while seated and tighten down to that point, hook up hose and see if I get flow without leaks. Then resort to trimming the fitting if that fails. Hopefully this is a simple fix. Really gonna need some heat here soon

 

[GA Architect]

FWIW - I still have that same union on my 2F and used the heater this morning. When I installed it, I snugged it down. Are you sure your heater valve and/or circulation hoses aren't clogged?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Coolant pressure is like 15 psi normally so it doesn't a lot of force to contain it like 170 psi compression. Stack of washers, a section of metal tubing/pipe to make the spacer. Many of ways to skin a cat - none approved by cats

 

[MAR FJ40]

FWIW - I still have that same union on my 2F and used the heater this morning. When I installed it, I snugged it down. Are you sure your heater valve and/or circulation hoses aren't clogged?

Certain no clogs in the hose. I also bypassed the valve at one point to remove it from the equation just to see if I get flow. It almost has to be bottoming out based on my process of elimination steps. I think, ha.