Replacement for 84222-12010 switch

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Anyone know what the part number of the connector for the switch is? My switch and connector became fused and busted all to $#!+
Should be a part number cast into the other 2 connectors on the other 2 switches?
 
Any luck finding out what the connector part # is? Also having the same issue (broken connector).

Edit - See below

9098011250 Connector x1
8299812440 Terminals (wires) x2
 
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Thanks a million. I just bought the Beck Arnley switch off Amazon for $13 delivered and screwed it into my 100 series rear locker that I have on my bench. I'm building a new wiring harness / solid state controller for it so that mating connector part number is extremely useful :D
 
The Toyota part that cross references this is much cheaper and can be had for $18 and still be an OEM switch.
Toyota part number 84210-52050

8421052050.webp
 
The Toyota part that cross references this is much cheaper and can be had for $18 and still be an OEM switch.
Toyota part number 84210-52050

View attachment 2150736
Has anyone installed and confirmed this one yet as a replacement? I’m dropping by Toyota tomorrow to do my CDL switch and would obviously prefer to go with the less expensive OEM option it it works.
 
Has anyone installed and confirmed this one yet as a replacement? I’m dropping by Toyota tomorrow to do my CDL switch and would obviously prefer to go with the less expensive OEM option it it works.

Mine will be here soon and I'll update the thread.
 
And... the switch/sensor is likely in fine condition except the contacts. You can 'clean' the internal switch contacts by running a bit of current through the switch action, see:

CDL Sensor/Switch

Of course if there is mechanical damage - broken connector/plastic etc, then replacing it would be necessary.

cheers,
george.

Bumping an old post, but this is a great tip! Two of my transfer case switches had very high resistance when closed. The CDL and L4 switch are cheap and readily available, but the neutral switch is expensive & hard to find. Though I think it's the same switch other then the connector - if the neutral switch really does go bad, I may just splice in the other connector.

Anyway, I tried this "cleaning" thing - 24V, 300mv and cycled the switch about 15-20 times until the closed voltage went to 0 (power supply was in constant current mode). Put the multimeter on it again, and zero resistance when closed. Worked for both of them - thanks!
 
I’m glad you posted this,

I replaced my CDL switch less than two years ago and a the beach again and the ”CTR” diff lock logo fades and doesn’t really want to come on full bright, then maybe or maybe not the VSC OFF comes on, but we can hear the relay click and hear an audible mechanical something under the rig, after a few seconds we get the three lights on, VSC OFF and TRAC, the key off and re-start always resets everything.

We are going to try some forward and reverse with CDL engaged later on.

Looks like I get to dive in more after we get back home, lol...
 
The part number for the above switch is 84222-60081. It is the switch that tells the ecu that the transfer case in in neutral. I could not find a aftermarket version so I had to go to the dealer. My cost was around $55. Maybe someone can find a cheaper replacement.
My plastic plug (female connector) for 84222-60081(neutral position) is demolished. Does anyone know the part number or digit-code on that plug? Any help appreciated. Middle East desert loves to break plastic
 
My plastic plug (female connector) for 84222-60081(neutral position) is demolished. Does anyone know the part number or digit-code on that plug? Any help appreciated. Middle East desert loves to break plastic
90980-10380.-81, 9P, WP type housing, pg D-17, Harness Repair Maunal.webp


Either 90980-10380 (without clamp) or 90980-10381 (with clamp)
Note: this is only the connector. You'll have to pull each terminal out of the back of the connector, and insert them, one at a time, into the new one. Here's how:

TODC connectors, pg C-12, (enlarged) Harness Repair Manual.webp


Lift up, from the male connector side (not the wire side) with the tool below, as shown above.

Special tool details, pg B-1, Harness Repair Maunal.webp


FWIW, I've done this with a small, instrument type screwdriver. Just be careful, use a headlamp and go slow. The trick is to lift up the plastic tab, hold the connector with one hand (while keeping the tab lifted) and pull the wire and terminal out of the other side with the other hand. You'll know you have it when it almost falls out. If you have to pull on it, you haven;t released the terminal.
 
I will say that if you have the DS running board and mudflap removed, the wheel off and the front end elevated about 8 inches, an average fully grown man may be able to just get both arms, up the the elbow, in there. If you're skinny you're in good shape. If you're an 18 series, you're screwed.

I just did this over the summer and it took several hours and I exhausted my scatalogical vocabulary.
 
View attachment 2486612

Either 90980-10380 (without clamp) or 90980-10381 (with clamp)
Note: this is only the connector. You'll have to pull each terminal out of the back of the connector, and insert them, one at a time, into the new one. Here's how:

View attachment 2486613

Lift up, from the male connector side (not the wire side) with the tool below, as shown above.

View attachment 2486615

FWIW, I've done this with a small, instrument type screwdriver. Just be careful, use a headlamp and go slow. The trick is to lift up the plastic tab, hold the connector with one hand (while keeping the tab lifted) and pull the wire and terminal out of the other side with the other hand. You'll know you have it when it almost falls out. If you have to pull on it, you haven;t released the terminal.
Sounds like surgery, I'll be ready. Thanks again for the quick turnaround on this reply.
 
1604537121117.webp
 
1604537164807.webp
 
Oddly, PartSouq doesn't have it listed. Hmmm.

This is the pigtail, from the engine harness to the xmsn:
1604537366822.webp
 

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