Replaced PHH, still leaking

[Guambomb]

Just replaced my PHH and it's still dripping from the drivers side of the hose. At first it was dripping pretty quickly so I loosened the clamp, moved it down the silicone hose a little and then retightened. Now it's still dripping ever so slightly from the drivers side clamp. Engine's too hot to mess with it again tonight but my plan for tomorrow is:

1. Remove entire pipe and hose.
2. Seat and clamp down silicone hose on drivers side metal pipe.
3. Reinstall pipe and hose.
4. Push silicone hose onto block nipple and clamp everything down.

Anybody else have this problem before? Any other suggestions?
Already missed some wheeling this weekend and I'm getting ready to head out to the woods for 4 days. Don't want to deal with this on the side of the highway or in the boonies.

 

[Pin_Head]

You might try just loosening the clamps, repositioning them and tightening them. Although taking the whole thing out and doing it again is more involved, it is more likely to succeed.

 

[ralphy1997]

Bypass the whole thing--worked for me.

 

[harrydunn]

Bypass the whole thing--worked for me.

Your alignment looks fine so that is odd that it's leaking unless the clamps are simply not tight enough.

I had considered the "by-pass" which many have done but ultimately replaced it with the new silicone hose. No leaks thus far. If your's continues to leak however, I'd by-pass it and get out on the trails.

--Mark

 

[ardentyota]

Was there any dried up crap on the pipes? If there was it could be causing the new PHH to not seal. If you can get to it, try rubbing both the metal fittings with a scotch-brite pad before reinstalling.

 

[harrydunn]

Good call Nate.

 

[scottm]

Or might you have scratched the metal while getting the old hose off? A scratch could cause a drip.

 

[khoi911]

I'm curious has anyone not changed their PHH and have over 200k miles with no issues?

Also been thinking that perhaps Toyota should have just designed a solid pipe all the way from the engine block up to the firewall. I can't understand why they would have an inch long rubber hose then it goes into a metal pipe. Just make the whole pipe solid to the engine block.

1 more thing, why is the bypass method?

 

[ardentyota]

Its a flex joint. It allows the body and all things attached to the body to flex compared to the engine.

 

[Guambomb]

Thanks for the advice. Tired of messing with it so I'm gonna bypass the whole thing today. Bought some 5/8" heater hose and 7/8" to wrap around it for insulation/protection. Will post up results later today when I'm done.

 

[retrofive]

Thanks for the advice. Tired of messing with it so I'm gonna bypass the whole thing today. Bought some 5/8" heater hose and 7/8" to wrap around it for insulation/protection. Will post up results later today when I'm done.

Good Luck. I by-passed mine 6k ago, no issues so far.

 

[FirstToy]

don't use silicone hose.
use good rubber hose and regular hose clamps.

good luck with the bypass, i'm sure it will be fine. Sucks to mess with the same thing over and over.

 

[rgsiii]

I used the super duper $$$$ hose/clamps on one 80 and it worked great.

Used it on another and there was a drip. It only stopped with the use of a regular hose. I don't know if the regular hose allows for the sealing of a defect in metal or if there is some other reason.

 

[Marc311]

Is it possible the leak is actually from the TOP of the pipe and is just dripping down since the PHH is the lowest point?

I'm not against the bypass, but if you've gone to the trouble of replacing the PHH already with good hose and clamps, I would want to be sure the leak is, in fact, there.

 

[BrotherRob]

Was there any dried up **** on the pipes? If there was it could be causing the new PHH to not seal. If you can get to it, try rubbing both the metal fittings with a scotch-brite pad before reinstalling.

x2, I bypassed mine but it had ridge of sentiment on the fitting on the block. Had to take it back off and go at it with a long handled scraper. Before you put it back together, get up there with an inspection mirror an flashlight and check for debris.

 

[Guambomb]

The leak was definitely coming from the drivers side clamp on the PHH. FYI, I did check to make sure it wasn't leaking from any other place before I performed the bypass surgery. The bypass is complete and the freaking leak that was driving me crazy is completely gone. Too tired to post pics. Hitting the road in 4 hours.

 

[Guambomb]

Update

Couple more details: After installing the 2 foot section of 5/8" hose to the block nipple, I fed it up to the top. I then slid about 8 inches of 7/8" hose on from the top and let it wedge itself inbetween the firewall and the engine block. To eliminate any kinks, I trimmed the 5/8" hose to fit nice and snug. I used standard black heater hose and some regular hose clamps. I will probably upgrade to constant tension clamps later on but everything's holding nice for now.

After installing the PHH bypass, I went out into the boonies for 4 days of wheeling and the cooling system was tested pretty thoroughly. Highly recommended!!!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/trails-eve...hita-expedition-2010-hot-springs-clayton.html

 

[Cruiserdrew]

don't use silicone hose.
use good rubber hose and regular hose clamps.

good luck with the bypass, i'm sure it will be fine. Sucks to mess with the same thing over and over.

Agree with this. Good rubber hose will bond with the pipe and seal small leaks. The best hose is Gates green Stripe. It is the sh!t.

Constant tension clamps are ok, but lined normal clamps are better (my opinion, no data).

I bypassed mine too 3-4 years ago with Gates Green stripe and it still looks like I did it yesterday. I could replace the entire thing in an hour if needed.

 

[ralphy1997]

Agree with this. Good rubber hose will bond with the pipe and seal small leaks. The best hose is Gates green Stripe. It is the sh!t.

Constant tension clamps are ok, but lined normal clamps are better (my opinion, no data).

I bypassed mine too 3-4 years ago with Gates Green stripe and it still looks like I did it yesterday. I could replace the entire thing in an hour if needed.

An hour if you count time to get parts--I think it would be about a 15 min job. Much simpler and fewer fail points than the original design. You'd think Toyota would have designed it that way to start as they are known for making things simple but effective.