Removing steering rack

[Caveman Cruiser]

OK I screwed up Just when I thought the tough part is behind me! Managed to cross thread the hydraulic line into the rack. I think this is the inlet to the rack so it must be a high pressure line?
I damaged at least 4 threads, the bolt on the line seems to be fine.
Is there anyway to salvage this brand new rack?

 

[TimCFJ40]

OK I screwed up Just when I thought the tough part is behind me! Managed to cross thread the hydraulic line into the rack. I think this is the inlet to the rack so it must be a high pressure line?
I damaged at least 4 threads, the bolt on the line seems to be fine.
Is there anyway to salvage this brand new rack?

View attachment 4014786

I'd see if you can get a tap for that fitting and carefully chase the threads in the rack. This may be really challenging because you're doing it in the same position that caused you to cross thread the fitting. Then reinstall. Those threads retain the fitting, but don't provide sealing, the seal is at the bottom of the bore and the end of the hose, so it shouldn't leak after you get it threaded in correctly as long as there are enough threads remaining to hold the joint.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

OK I screwed up Just when I thought the tough part is behind me! Managed to cross thread the hydraulic line into the rack. I think this is the inlet to the rack so it must be a high pressure line?
I damaged at least 4 threads, the bolt on the line seems to be fine.
Is there anyway to salvage this brand new rack?

View attachment 4014786

If the tap doesn't work, a thread insert or helicoil might save the day.

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

Would anyone know the thread size by any chance?

 

[turbo8]

Would anyone know the thread size by any chance?

The high pressure side (smaller connection) appears to be M16-1.5.

The return side has a 15.45mm internal diameter and a 1.5mm pitch. Would toyota put a M17 connection on there?

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

Thank you

 

[kcjaz]

I’m getting ready to replace my steering rack. This thread is very helpful. Ordering parts now and luckily catching 20% off at Serra Toyota. For those who’ve done this, is there anything else should I be doing “while I’m in there”? I was planning on replacing my KDSS links as a separate project and thought disconnecting the sway bar might help access for the steering rack but after watching the video in @Caveman Cruiser’s post #19, disconnecting the sway bar doesn’t seem necessary.

I’ll be doing this without my lift and just on the garage floor. I’m wondering if it would be worth it to get taller jack stands.

 

[linuxgod]

The rack comes with new tie rods. I don’t think there’s much else to swap. The oil cooler probably has to come out so make sure you get new rubber orings for that

 

[turbo8]

I’m getting ready to replace my steering rack. This thread is very helpful. Ordering parts now and luckily catching 20% off at Serra Toyota. For those who’ve done this, is there anything else should I be doing “while I’m in there”? I was planning on replacing my KDSS links as a separate project and thought disconnecting the sway bar might help access for the steering rack but after watching the video in @Caveman Cruiser’s post #19, disconnecting the sway bar doesn’t seem necessary.

I’ll be doing this without my lift and just on the garage floor. I’m wondering if it would be worth it to get taller jack stands.

3 quarts of Toyota WS ATF

I put in new front diff mounts.

Are you tundra swapped? If so, Tundra outer tie rod ends, unless current ones feel tight.

I bought new bolts for the rack, but probably didn't need them.

 

[kcjaz]

3 quarts of Toyota WS ATF

I put in new front diff mounts.

Are you tundra swapped? If so, Tundra outer tie rod ends, unless current ones feel tight.

I bought new bolts for the rack, but probably didn't need them.

I’m stock 200 front end.

On the diff mounts, were you able to just buy the bushings? It looks like I have to buy the whole support assemblies (3 of them).

Edit: it looks like I can just buy the upper and lower “stoppers” for the “52380D” mounts but not the rear one “52380E”?

 

[turbo8]

The main bushings are pressed into the diff mounts, like the control arms. So you will want the whole mount. the stoppers have rubber in them too, so you might want those as well.
I bought these when things were cheap

Another option is Febest makes oem style bushings for the front 2 diff mounts and maybe the rear one too, but the pic they show just looks like the stoppers.
TAB 556 and TAB 555 are the part numbers they are showing. I have used their oem style bushings in my rear lower control arms for a few years now, they seem like good quility.

They also make a steering rack bushing kit, but probably not worth the hassle to install those.