Removing steering rack

[Caveman Cruiser]

OK I screwed up Just when I thought the tough part is behind me! Managed to cross thread the hydraulic line into the rack. I think this is the inlet to the rack so it must be a high pressure line?
I damaged at least 4 threads, the bolt on the line seems to be fine.
Is there anyway to salvage this brand new rack?

 

[TimCFJ40]

OK I screwed up Just when I thought the tough part is behind me! Managed to cross thread the hydraulic line into the rack. I think this is the inlet to the rack so it must be a high pressure line?
I damaged at least 4 threads, the bolt on the line seems to be fine.
Is there anyway to salvage this brand new rack?

View attachment 4014786

I'd see if you can get a tap for that fitting and carefully chase the threads in the rack. This may be really challenging because you're doing it in the same position that caused you to cross thread the fitting. Then reinstall. Those threads retain the fitting, but don't provide sealing, the seal is at the bottom of the bore and the end of the hose, so it shouldn't leak after you get it threaded in correctly as long as there are enough threads remaining to hold the joint.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

OK I screwed up Just when I thought the tough part is behind me! Managed to cross thread the hydraulic line into the rack. I think this is the inlet to the rack so it must be a high pressure line?
I damaged at least 4 threads, the bolt on the line seems to be fine.
Is there anyway to salvage this brand new rack?

View attachment 4014786

If the tap doesn't work, a thread insert or helicoil might save the day.

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

Would anyone know the thread size by any chance?

 

[turbo8]

Would anyone know the thread size by any chance?

The high pressure side (smaller connection) appears to be M16-1.5.

The return side has a 15.45mm internal diameter and a 1.5mm pitch. Would toyota put a M17 connection on there?

 

[Caveman Cruiser]

Thank you

 

[kcjaz]

I’m getting ready to replace my steering rack. This thread is very helpful. Ordering parts now and luckily catching 20% off at Serra Toyota. For those who’ve done this, is there anything else should I be doing “while I’m in there”? I was planning on replacing my KDSS links as a separate project and thought disconnecting the sway bar might help access for the steering rack but after watching the video in @Caveman Cruiser’s post #19, disconnecting the sway bar doesn’t seem necessary.

I’ll be doing this without my lift and just on the garage floor. I’m wondering if it would be worth it to get taller jack stands.

 

[linuxgod]

The rack comes with new tie rods. I don’t think there’s much else to swap. The oil cooler probably has to come out so make sure you get new rubber orings for that

 

[turbo8]

I’m getting ready to replace my steering rack. This thread is very helpful. Ordering parts now and luckily catching 20% off at Serra Toyota. For those who’ve done this, is there anything else should I be doing “while I’m in there”? I was planning on replacing my KDSS links as a separate project and thought disconnecting the sway bar might help access for the steering rack but after watching the video in @Caveman Cruiser’s post #19, disconnecting the sway bar doesn’t seem necessary.

I’ll be doing this without my lift and just on the garage floor. I’m wondering if it would be worth it to get taller jack stands.

3 quarts of Toyota WS ATF

I put in new front diff mounts.

Are you tundra swapped? If so, Tundra outer tie rod ends, unless current ones feel tight.

I bought new bolts for the rack, but probably didn't need them.

 

[kcjaz]

3 quarts of Toyota WS ATF

I put in new front diff mounts.

Are you tundra swapped? If so, Tundra outer tie rod ends, unless current ones feel tight.

I bought new bolts for the rack, but probably didn't need them.

I’m stock 200 front end.

On the diff mounts, were you able to just buy the bushings? It looks like I have to buy the whole support assemblies (3 of them).

Edit: it looks like I can just buy the upper and lower “stoppers” for the “52380D” mounts but not the rear one “52380E”?

 

[turbo8]

The main bushings are pressed into the diff mounts, like the control arms. So you will want the whole mount. the stoppers have rubber in them too, so you might want those as well.
I bought these when things were cheap

Another option is Febest makes oem style bushings for the front 2 diff mounts and maybe the rear one too, but the pic they show just looks like the stoppers.
TAB 556 and TAB 555 are the part numbers they are showing.

I have used their oem style bushings in my rear lower control arms for a few years now, they seem like good quility.

They also make a steering rack bushing kit, but probably not worth the hassle to install those.

 

[kcjaz]

I got the steering rack from miracle Toyota in Florida on a 20% off sale but when they UPS,d it to me, they failed the package it correctly and the hydraulic tubing got all mangled. So I sent it back and they’re gonna refund my money. Just ordered a new one from the local Toyota dealer.

Trying to get my garage organized to do this. I want to confirm what side the rack is gonna come out of to make sure I have enough room against the wall. I think it’s coming out passenger side. The FSM diagram below makes it look like it comes partially out passenger side and then drops out the bottom but from what I read, no one has managed to make this actually work.

 

[linuxgod]

That diagram is I believe how the dealer got mine out. You have to remove the oil cooler to make it work

 

[Zill]

I got the steering rack from miracle Toyota in Florida on a 20% off sale but when they UPS,d it to me, they failed the package it correctly and the hydraulic tubing got all mangled. So I sent it back and they’re gonna refund my money. Just ordered a new one from the local Toyota dealer.

Trying to get my garage organized to do this. I want to confirm what side the rack is gonna come out of to make sure I have enough room against the wall. I think it’s coming out passenger side. The FSM diagram below makes it look like it comes partially out passenger side and then drops out the bottom but from what I read, no one has managed to make this actually work.
View attachment 4233901

To me, that diagram looks like you shimmy it from the drivers side to the passenger side, and then that gives you room to drop it down from the drivers side.

Have you checked out this video? I know it’s a diesel motor (Australian vid), but I hope this gives some guidance on how to get the old one out.

 

[kcjaz]

To me, that diagram looks like you shimmy it from the drivers side to the passenger side, and then that gives you room to drop it down from the drivers side.

Have you checked out this video? I know it’s a diesel motor (Australian vid), but I hope this gives some guidance on how to get the old one out.

Yeah, I’ve seen that video. It’s linked above in the thread somewhere. It’s helpful, but yeah it’s a diesel and right hand drive so some of the obstacles he doesn’t have.

I just put it up on stands and I’m scoping it out. I think the FSM is just saying, slide it out passenger to clear the oil cooler and oil filter assembly then drop it out in front of the crossmember. This looks possible if the hoses in a large wire loom can be moved out of the way.

I’m currently stuck (literally) getting the tie rods detached from the steering knuckle. 3lb sledge and kroil not doing it. Trying heat now but still not loosening. I don’t really like heating the steering knuckle. Used an IR gun to keep temp below 400F currently still no go. Will let kroil soak over night. Not sure what’s next. Maybe some kind of puller?

 

[kcjaz]

Finally got the tie rods off the knuckles. I knew this project was going to be a bear but I wasn’t expecting spend a day and a half on step one. No amount of beating and heat worked. Used a press tool. Slipped off once and shot across the shop like a bullet. Luckily I was to the side of its trajectory.

You want to remove the castle nut (unlike the photo) before you use the tool. I didn’t and had to cut the nut off as it was stuck to the threads after beating on it and the pin just spun when I tried to take the nut off.

Now for step two, disconnecting the steering linkage.

I don’t see any way to get to the bolt head on the other side. I’m thinking about pulling the CV out but one one has mentioned having to do that. I’ll loosen the diff first and see of I can get better access then.

 

[kcjaz]

Phoning friends: @turbo8 , @bloc , @GrouchyTech or anyone else who’s removed the steering rack. I’ve been struggling for more hours than I’d care to admit trying to get access to the steering column bolt.

If I had a 2’ long 12mm ratchet wrench, I could maybe get to it but even so, there would likely not be enough swing to do anything. I’ve been able to get a torque wrench adapter up in there and on the bolt with extensions to a ratchet below, I still can’t get enough swing to do anything.

I’ve removed the rack bolts so I can wiggle it around a bit and I’ve dropped the diff mounts. How to you get to this thing? The only way I can see is to pull the CV. I’ve considered removing the oil cooler as I may have to anyway but I don’t think that will really improve my access to the steering column.

 

[GrouchyTech]

Flare nut crow’s foot and a long wobble extension and it’s still a pain.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCQ1MVK2?tag=ihco-20

Wait… 12mm… are you trying to remove the internal pressure send/return lines? You don’t need to remove those. Only the two 17mm connections. But the ones that I can see in your photo are the 17mm nuts…

 

[turbo8]

I vaguely remember using a 1/4" ratchet and some extensions and I most likely turned the steering wheel to a better position to gain access to the bolt. I took out my shocks too, not sure if that was for that bolt access or space to get the rack out afterwards.

 

[bloc]

Flare nut crow’s foot and a long wobble extension and it’s still a pain.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCQ1MVK2?tag=ihco-20

Wait… 12mm… are you trying to remove the internal pressure send/return lines? You don’t need to remove those. Only the two 17mm connections. But the ones that I can see in your photo are the 17mm nuts…

I think he means the pinch nut on the steering shaft universal joint..

I haven’t done this job yet so can’t comment directly.