Remanufactured starter install on FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[Spino]

My ‘84 FJ60 starter started not starting recently. Not a click, not a sound. Quiet like the night before Christmas.

After some research I found that the old hit-it-with-a-hammer technique brought it back to life. But I didn’t want to carry around a hammer all the time. It seemed I either needed to rebuild my unit or replace it. I decided on the latter and found a reasonably priced Toyota remanufactured starter/solenoid. However, I’m not sure how to go about wiring it in.

Current arrangement has three wires: one big, which I presume goes to battery + and two small wires. According to the wiring diagram, one small wire goes to ground and the other goes to the ignition switch. The new starter only has a large bolt connection (I assume the hot wire from battery) and a single blade plug. (See pictures.)

Any idea how this is supposed to be wired? Is this model of starter meant to go to ground through the mounting bolts? No need to use that old ground wire? I am fairly sure I bought the right part...

Thanks in advance!

 

[leucadiacruiser]

That looks identical to my 3FE/FJ62 starter. Are they the same for the 60/2F?

 

[OSS]

The big honkin red battery cable from the battery connects to the big honkin terminal on the starter, and the little spade plug connects to the little spade connector going to the ignition switch.
If you don't have a matching spade connector on your ignition wire - add one.

The starter is grounded through its mounting bolts and chassis to the bellhousing- which is grounded to the block - which is grounded to the batt.
Same with the ignition switch.

 

[GeologistFelix]

My guess is, at some point, they decided the case grounded the thing well enough and did away with the small ground which was probably to help the solenoid start (since low amps + aluminum-to-cast-iron is kind of a recipe for excessive voltage drop), but turned out to be unnecessary. My 11/85 FJ60 just had the big +12 and the small +12 which your new one is set up for.

 

[Spino]

Thanks guys. The only tricky thing now will be confirming which wire is coming from the starter switch. Guessing I could use a test lamp?

 

[2mbb]

If you have meter that measures resistance (ohms) you can see which wire is connected to ground. And then connect the other wire to the starter. I think a test lamp tester tests for voltage/power present and to do that you would have to have the key in the "start" position, which means someone else would have to hold it in "start" during your test.

 

[g-man]

starter wire from ignition should be black w/white stripe:

 

[Spino]

starter wire from ignition should be black w/white stripe:
View attachment 2527540

Yup that’s the same diagram I was looking at. However here’s a photo of my wiring and as you can see the colors aren’t the same. Looks like a black and red wire and a brown and yellow wire.

 

[g-man]

83 electrical FSM and 84-90 chassis and body FSM schematics...both show b-w wire. Maybe it turned colors from exposure to the elements??? Can you peel back some of the wiring conduit and check there? Or did someone crimp on a diff colored wire there where it meets the white tape.

 

[3_puppies]

that is an old non gear reduction starter
the yellow looking wire will be your start, you can see it has a non factory crimp spade connector on it
not sure about the other wire, seems like it would only get power when the starter is trying to turn the engine over.

 

[Gretsch]

FWIW, mine has a ground strap attached to frame and one of the mounting bolts. Doesn't seem like its needed but I got the strap from the battery cable kit I got which was a one to one match for the stock setup. HTH:

 

[Spino]

Me again... Tried to take advantage of some warm, calm weather to do the install. But I ran into an issue. The top starter mount bolt spins when I try to loosen the nut. Can’t get behind it to hold it. Weirdly, I was able to break the nut loose and then tighten it back down after I got stumped. Anyone encounter this before? Suggestions on how to remove? Thanks.

 

[Gretsch]

Me again... Tried to take advantage of some warm, calm weather to do the install. But I ran into an issue. The top starter mount bolt spins when I try to loosen the nut. Can’t get behind it to hold it. Weirdly, I was able to break the nut loose and then tighten it back down after I got stumped. Anyone encounter this before? Suggestions on how to remove? Thanks.

If memory serves the top bolt on mine is actually a nut on a stud. On mine I just took the whole stud out with the nut still on it when replacing the starter then threaded the stud back in using the nut to tighten it down. The nut on mine was stuck on the stud somehow such that I turning the nut turned the whole stud instead of just the nut. I am not sure if that's common or not but it was no issue for me to remove and thread it back in.

 

[Spino]

If memory serves the top bolt on mine is actually a nut on a stud. On mine I just took the whole stud out with the nut still on it when replacing the starter then threaded the stud back in using the nut to tighten it down. The nut on mine was stuck on the stud somehow such that I turning the nut turned the whole stud instead of just the nut. I am not sure if that's common or not but it was no issue for me to remove and thread it back in.

Ohh! I assumed there was something on the back side holding it in. Didn’t consider the possibility that it was threaded right in behind the starter. I’ll have another look. Thank you!

 

[Spino]

Yup that was it, thanks @Gretsch ! Wiring worked out exactly as explained in earlier posts on this thread too.

 

[BaristaBoy]

Hey dude, your sight window (the hole above your starter) is missing its cover, that'll let debris get flung onto your flywheel- Id try to clean it up and get tape or something to cover it if you can

 

[Spino]

Hey dude, your sight window (the hole above your starter) is missing its cover, that'll let debris get flung onto your flywheel- Id try to clean it up and get tape or something to cover it if you can

Good eye, thank you!!

 

[Cruzerman]

But I didn’t want to carry around a hammer all the time.

What? I just assumed that all cruiser owners were like me and always carried a toolbox full of tools. Guess I'm wrong again.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

this is a simple update MOD

when you have these extra NEEDED parts to make the job both safe long term and reliable too ............

please use technical links below as reference and how to's


- first the needed locking latching OEM YAZAKI 1 pin positive special terminal grip connector get installed on your Key IGN switch wire :

comes with a marine grade yellow CRIMP heat shrink BUTT too ........these are the TOP TIER connectors on the market today by

3-M ....................fyi

- then you need add the red YAZAKI OEM safety Boot to your new starter LOG keeps corrosion off too

- EAZY PEEZY , presto your in business .......

Genuine YAZAKI Japan Spec. OEM TOYOTA Rubber B+ BOOT Insulator For Starter Cable to Positive Battery LUG Cable to Starter Also |GREAT For the Larger B+ Ring Terminal on Back Side of your DENSO Alternator - VintageTEqParts.com

- Genuine YAZAKI Japan Spec. OEM TOYOTA - Rubber B+ Boot Insulator For Starter Cable to Positive Battery LUG - &.. - ...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[icorradoi]

this is a simple update MOD

when you have these extra NEEDED parts to make the job both safe long term and reliable too ............

please use technical links below as reference and how to's


- first the needed locking latching OEM YAZAKI 1 pin positive special terminal grip connector get installed on your Key IGN switch wire :

comes with a marine grade yellow CRIMP heat shrink BUTT too ........these are the TOP TIER connectors on the market today by

3-M ....................fyi

- then you need add the red YAZAKI OEM safety Boot to your new starter LOG keeps corrosion off too

- EAZY PEEZY , presto your in business .......

Genuine YAZAKI Japan Spec. OEM TOYOTA Rubber B+ BOOT Insulator For Starter Cable to Positive Battery LUG Cable to Starter Also |GREAT For the Larger B+ Ring Terminal on Back Side of your DENSO Alternator - VintageTEqParts.com

- Genuine YAZAKI Japan Spec. OEM TOYOTA - Rubber B+ Boot Insulator For Starter Cable to Positive Battery LUG - &.. - ...

vintageteqparts.com

View attachment 2534966

Hi Matt,

Do you have a link to this: first the needed locking latching OEM YAZAKI 1 pin positive special terminal grip connector get installed on your Key IGN switch wire

Can't find it on your website.