Reflowing Solder Points (1 Viewer)

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NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Carb cooling fan relay, emissions computer... I know there are folks who have done this. It would be cool to have a thread and eventual sticky for this tech option. @Cgbeachbum, didn't you do this? Anyone else? Granted I get it that this might simply be a diy from youtube, but to hear straight from the horses mouth so to speak, I know I'd be grateful to have a few that I knew I could point my finger to when in doubt.
 
I've done it plenty. Most guys just apply heat to get the solder to melt, then remove the heat. Personally I like to essentially renew the solder after 30 years or so, so I heat and remove the old solder (vacuum bulb or copper wick), then re-solder with fresh solder. Use a electronics flux remover when you're done as it's corrosive and can do damage long term.

Soldering and de-soldering can take some time to master. Most likely failure is too much heat and that's not good. It's highly advisable to practice on some junk components.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC10...8169840&sr=8-4&keywords=weller+soldering+iron

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals...508169935&sr=1-3&keywords=solder+flux+remover

https://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-...&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=desoldering+tool&psc=1
 
I've had good luck with reflowing the boards but other items such as wiper motors or anything that might come in contact with oil will need thorough cleaning and new solder in the process @Prairie Swamp outlined.

A quick run down of what to look for on the emissions board:

Remove emissions board from behind driver kick panel. Remove from housing and inspect. Look for dark burn spots that could be failures but the major point of failure is at the terminal pins which are shown below (not my pic, found one via a quick google search). The connector has 14 pins and is shown below in the first pic and denoted by some of the red arrows. The large blob of solder in the upper center of the image shows the center-point of the terminal. From that blob there is 6 pins to the right and left to inspect.

If you have bad eyes get a magnifying glass and search for cracks in the solder joints, which is shown below. The image I have shown of cracks is NOT from a 60 series, it is from the DME board on early 911s which suffer the same problem.

Once you've identified the cracks, reflow using the process @Prairie Swamp has shown and you should be back in business. It is also good to note WHICH points you're reflowing by using the emissions diagram that way you can understand which system it corresponds to.

emissions-board-jpg.1401088

dmercir1.jpg

image-jpeg.1398577
 
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Good tech. Thank you
 
Thought I’d bring this thread back to the foreground as it’s good info for all of us.
 
IMG_6750.JPG
I had a bad solder joint not too long ago on the power window relay board on a 62. Thought I'd share the pic. Don't remember exactly what wasn't working, I think it was the down function of the driver's window...but I'm forgetful at this point. Easy to pull the board out of the drivers door and check for this if your having problems. I thought it was a good tech related pic either way...
 
This is great, I failed when I attempted to do this on a different vehicle so I’ve been gun shy to try on my cruiser. This gives me some more inspiration to try (after I find a used one to be able to practice on). Funny thing, I just bought a complete setup for a soldering station so I’m ready to do it, just need to get up the nerve...
 
I rebuild old arcade systems (think PacMan, Galaga, etc) and run into this all over.

It's worth it to note that after 30yrs solder gets pretty rough, and can fail very easily. A failed solder joint is not always visible. The pic above is an awesome example of some visible failed joints, but you cant always see them, and they can fail intermittently, which can drive you nuts trying to hunt down.

It's good practice with any old board to reflow the joints with new solder. It's not hard, and once done gets you another 30yrs of service.
 

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